14.45v at idle ok?

[GlockPointer]

That's what I have with the new alternator. 35a replacement. Voltage rises some to about 14.7 when revved.
Also have new LiFePo battery.

[cushman eagle]

Those voltage readings are excellent You do not want voltage much higher,but those are great1

[ekap1200]

Those voltage readings are excellent You do not want voltage much higher,but those are great1

I agree , those readings are on the high side, that should bring the battery up to charge. Is that with a voltmeter installed on the bike or a test meter ? As time running the bike and bringing the battery up to full charge the voltage should start to settle closer to 13.3 ~13.7

[GlockPointer]

That was measured with a meter. I wondered if the alternator would " break in" with some time.

I hope the battery jives, it weighs less than 3lbs! Now the bike handles like a Ninja!

[keithert]

I just mad a meter on my stock 01 yesterday. I was reading 12.9 at idle and 13.3 at 3000 rpm.

[ekap1200]

It would appear to me that your battery is at 100 %. for shits and giggles leave the lights on for a two minute period and see what the next results are. If the regulator is doing what it should the voltage at 3,000 should be higher as it sees the battery not at 100%
although my idle is set a bit higher than book specs ; and I idle at 13.3 with a 100% charge . when left sitting and no charger on it I can see the regulator working as it ups the voltage for a period of time riding and as the battery recovers to 100% it will settle down to 13.3v At that point I will then use the tape deck and or other accessories as I see fit.
One must always consider the accuracy of the meter and where you have it wired into.

[Mr Jensee]

The meter I installed reads 12.2 at idle.

[ghostler]

Just thinking, sometimes slight variances like that can be due to a less than optimal electrical connection (battery posts, cable connections and connectors, grounds, relays, switches, fuses, etc. Wouldn't hurt to go through everything to be safe, IMO. Also, meters vary in accuracy. Some are better than others.

BTW, I found that the cheap Harbor Freight meters aren't worth getting. They don't have the safety features the more expensive ones do (i.e., over-voltage, over-current protection). I used wrong scale on their cheapo under $10 one that seemed to have so nice features (if it seems too good to be true, it probably is) that must have burnt some of the internal circuitry. Would show readings, but now they were off without warning.

I've found that if you avoid their cheapest stuff, buy the higher end, then you'll get a good product.

[scottolds]

Mine with the original alternator now gives me 14.0 to 14.1 at idle and 13.6-13.9 when cruising depending on how many accessories I have on.

One thing I noticed was I used to only get about 13.6 at idle and 13.0 -13.4 when cruising from when I got the bike in 2016 until early this month.

The only thing that changed was I replaced my trickle charger that stopped working and would report the battery was bad with a new Deltran Power Tender 3A system. It seems the better charger is doing a much better job at keeping my battery topped off.

Battery condition can play a role in your readings.

[Thud300]

Inactive at low idle, comes in at about 900 rpm to 13.8, generally never above 14.0 volts, on my 91 with stock alternator and hardwired voltmeter direct to battery.