self cancelling + cruise not working

[seabreeze-1]

Does any one know if the two are linked and have something to do with either not working?
Cruise control green light on..thats pretty much it. Front and back brake "clicks" are there. Tried to set cruise in 5th..over 55mph...still nothing.

[Nails]

I'd guess they're both busted, separately. But a little more history would be useful.

[triton28]

If the OD light in the meter faceplate is NOT illuminated when in 5th gear, chances are the OD switch is not communicating with the cruise control module.
It could be a burnt bulb or the switch is disconnected, or the connector to the harness is corroded.
You didn't elaborate on whether or not the OD was lit.
Dave

[seabreeze-1]

Hi Dave..nope..the OD light is not on. Just the green power button.

[triton28]

If the bulb in the meter face assembly tests as working when 12Volt power is applied, for example by grounding the wire to the OD switch when the key is ON, then I would look to the OD switch next.
The neutral/OD switch is just slightly ahead of and below the oil level sight glass. The OD portion is a brass eyelet with a 4" long, black coloured, wire pigtail having a male connector terminal which connects with a female terminal from the alternator sub harness.
It is rare for the eyelet to be a problem of corrosion, usually it is the wire lead from the harness not being connected or the wire lead from the eyelet has lost the male bullet connector and someone has jury rigged the connection which may be loose and acting as an open circuit, OR once in awhile there is a dud switch.
To remove the brass OD eyelet for cleaning/repairing, the neutral switch has to be removed using a 14mm socket. The removal of the neutral switch will lead to loss of oil while the switch is removed from the black plastic mount nut. Temporarily block the hole the switch came out of or drain the engine oil first.
I drain the engine oil and remove the black plastic nut, that way I can have clean dry threads, both inside and on the outside of the plastic nut when I reinstall the nut and switch. It's also simpler I find when the oil is not a factor. Either way, be careful of the threads of the plastic nut. If you do remove the plastic mount nut, be sure to clean both the aluminium bevel gear case threads as well as the threads of the plastic nut itself and when reinstalling the nut use silicone sealant on the outer threads which screw into the aluminium bevel gear housing and do not tighten more that 43 inch pounds, divide by 12 to get foot pounds.
When reinstalling the neutral/OD switch into the nut, with cleaned brass surfaces on the eyelet, be sure to use a non-permanent thread locking agent on the neutral switch threads and don’t tighten more that 87 inch pounds of torque.
Refill the engine with oil, connect the neutral and OD wires and that's it.
If you still don't have cruise with the OD light lit in 5th gear then that would be another posting.

[seabreeze-1]

wow! seems like alot of work..thanks triton..i see a fall project my future.

[triton28]

Actually it goes a lot quicker than one would think.
The first time is always a little slower as one is on the learning curve.
And it may only be a disconnected wire.

[krasmu]

Yes the two are related. They both use a small component on the back of the gauge cluster called the distance sensor. In fact this sensor is also used to operate the auto volume on the radio. Does the auto volume on your radio still operate properly? In other words, does the volume go up when you go over 45 mph? If not, make sure the radios outer ring on the right hand knob is set to something above the 10:00 position. If the volume still does not raise with speed, then this might be your issue with all three systems.

[seabreeze-1]

hmm...thank you Krasmu...
so just to recap..if my volume doesnt increase over 45 mph (knobs adjusted as necessary)..but i do have volume..and my self cancelling is not cancelling and cruise not working (green power light comes on..but cruise will not set..no amber light)...then i should look at the "distance sensor" as a possible issue.
what does this sensor look like and where can i get a hold of one.
Thanks!\dave

[ekap1200]

Is this a ( new to you bike ) ? how long have you had the bike, and did the cruise ever work. 'did the volume or turn cancel ever work and if so did they both go out at the same time ? Has the bike been recently worked on by you or others ?
Gene K.

[seabreeze-1]

Hi Gene..wish i know..i bought the bike used..im the third owner. Apparently the first owner bought the bike new. There was not much use from him so it was stored most of its life. The second owner only had it for about 6 months. The bike was covered with dust. He spend about $700 getting it back on the road..fluids changed, front fork seal replaced, brakes and carb "cleaned" (need a proper cleaning). When i picked the bike up, one of the owners had installed some cheesy fog lights and attempted to attach a cigarette lighter adapter. Then second owner had disconnected them because he wasnt happy the way they were connected. Also the radio wasnt working when the second owner picked the bike up. i have since replaced both rear fuses on the radio and it works great. Im thinking.....that when the first owner attempted to install the lights, cig adapter, that he must have blown the fused and possibly messed up the cruise, turn signals??? maybe?

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Alex, not sure if I missed it but I have to ask. Does your speedometer work? They're both reliant on the speedo working! If you said and I missed it I'm sorry but had to ask the obvious!!!!