Well your are on the right path. Now on to why...... I had asked the condition of the fuel and how bad the fuel filter was for a reason. If there is allot of rust in the tank and it is smaller then the micron rating of the filter it can collect in the workings of the pump and stall it out. It may be to your best interest at this time as you remove the pump to flush the fuel tank out. I just looked at your aftermarket pump and it looks like a fair replacement, But a clean supply is what they all need. When in doubt, take out the fuel filter in it now and backwash into a clean container. observe what comes out. if your new aftermarket is a China replacement done as well as their replacement alternators then just give Carl a call and see if he has a pump.... OEM, He won't sell one that he does not put on his test bike and run around Fla for a morning or so.. But you need to be damn sure the tank is clean of all rust and debris and a new filter installed. The OEM pump wiring is such that at start up you are applying power then when started power is always there and the grounding of the pump is done by the ignition module. So your not out of the woods yet. But have a better understanding of the problem. If you get things flushed and new filter you may have a chance at freeing up the pump and have it become trouble free. Good jobMartinKemp wrote:I do have the original fuel pump. Point filing sounds like a very good "winter project". The season is almost done here in Alberta, but I can rest easy knowing that I know what the problem is.
Thanks again,
Martin
Come the winter you can install a momentary push button normally closed switch into the starter circuit so you don't have to take anything off to PRIME the fuel system.
Gene Kap.
