low fuel light

[Nails]

My light lights up with key on, but not when the fuel is actually low. I see this is a common problem, and most folks just rely on the odometer. New fuel level sending units probably no longer exist; and used ones either don't work or soon won't.

So how about hacking in a new switch? Like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1973-Ford ... ~j&vxp=mtr.

I plan to pull my sending unit to get a better idea of the dimensions, to confirm that it closes at low fuel, and maybe (just maybe) getting it to work again.

I'm just asking whether anyone has tried this.

[cushman eagle]

Have you gotten the fuel down to having only one gallon in the tank? That is the level my bike gets down to until the light comes one,and it has always done it real slow.It may take a couple minutes from the time I can see a faint glow until it is noticeably bright.

[Nails]

Oh, yeah. How do you say, "walking"?

[Bulrid8]

I thought the light did not come on till gauge read empty. When it got down to last gallon of gas?

[Highway Rider]

Should you need the fuel gauge sending unit here is the part # ---52005-1076-- it is still available but the cost is $114.31. I had to replace mine a few years ago. With my old one the light would come on after 5 gallons were used and vary consistent. That would leave 1 gallon left. The new one comes on after 4.9 gallons have been use. I go by miles driven plus when the light comes on that lets me know just how my MPG is. Here in the Midwest running 75 mph and a fair wind and alcohol in the fuel. I average about 150 miles when the light comes on and fuel up at around 180 miles. So if you ever put in more the 5 gallons chances are the sending unit is bad. Most definitely bad if you put in 5.5 gallons. The most I have put in is 5.8 gallons. And that was after the fuel gauge needle settled on to the stop post at around 130 miles light comes on not to long after that. I cut my speed down to 55 and stopped at 180 miles.

[cushman eagle]

I thought the light did not come on till gauge read empty. When it got down to last gallon of gas?

I can ride about 50 miles after my gauge shows empty, before the light comes on, then I have about another 50 .
If I fill up at the time my gauge shows empty,I can only put about 4 gallons in.

[Bulrid8]

I thought the light did not come on till gauge read empty. When it got down to last gallon of gas?

I can ride about 50 miles after my gauge shows empty, before the light comes on, then I have about another 50 .
If I fill up at the time my gauge shows empty,I can only put about 4 gallons in.

That's how mine is. Fill up from empty is about 4-4.5 gallons. Out of a 6.1 gallon tank. So once the light comes on, you should have 1-1.5 gallons left.

[Highway Rider]

When the fuel gauge gets down to empty and rests on the stop peg you wil have around 1.5 to 2 gallons left.

Once the light comes on you should have 1 gallon left

[Nails]

HwyRider, where did you buy it? I found one ($114, I think 2Wheels), but "factory backorder".

But honestly, how hard can it be to wire in a simple switch? The gage works fine.

This evidently is a common problem.

http://www.amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewt ... f=3&t=8955
http://www.amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewt ... f=3&t=8878

[Highway Rider]

Bought from a dealer at that price. Not following how a switch will work if the sending unit is bad. You could put a switch on an never see it coming on. Install of the unit is really simple. . Have you ever put in more than 5 gallons of fuel. If not your sending unit may still be good.

[Nails]

> Not following how a switch will work if the sending unit is bad.

The sending unit is a switch. I'm replacing it.

> Have you ever put in more than 5 gallons of fuel.

As above, I've run it clear out of fuel ("walking"). Since the light came on when starting, I assumed it was working.

[triton28]

Just to clarify for those who are not familiar with the tank gauge switch:
there are 2 distinct parts; one is a sliding resistance switch operated by the float, which is for the full/empty gauge and the other is a different resistance switch for the "Low Fuel" light. The float is only for the full/empty gauge.
The cylindrical Mustang, Cougar switch referenced looks almost exactly like the Kawasaki Low Fuel light sensor. I would think if it could be mounted in place of the OEM unit, it would probably work should one need a new sensor.
Just a guess though,
Dave

[Nails]

I'm thinking of SS wire to hold it in place. Not too worried about the elec connectors -- but it'd be swell if it's p-n-p. The biggest issue, I think, is whether it's normally open or closed. (Unlike the gage sending units, which need the right resistance.)
I'll pull the sending unit, take some measurements, test the "polarity", and go from there. Was just asking whether anyone's already figured this out. $30 sounds a lot better than $130; and it might even last longer.

Maybe I can even bend the float arm longer to give a better range, instead of 50 miles before "full" and 100 miles after "empty".

[usmalenurse]

I didn't know if mine worked until I was coming home from the rally in Wisconsin a couple of years ago. It had never came on before and I usually just gassed up around 200 miles. It came on gradually and I saw a billboard for an exit with gas 10 miles down the interstate. I made it around 9 1/2 miles just short of the exit. Low and behold, I ran out of gas a second time coming back from Alabama on 1-20. I knew I needed to stop in a few miles for gas but the light hadn't even flickered so I thought I was good to go for a little further....wrong. The light came on at the exact time the bike died. No gradual, no flicker....nothing but boom at the exact time the bike died. The light is forever out of my mind now and 200 miles is the stop point no matter where I'm at. But on the bright side the ROK roadside assistance was a true blessing on both occasions!

[Barry]

Your low fuel light works the same as mine. The light works only prior to pushing the start button. I've tried replacing the sending unit which didn't help. I just never have taken the time to track down the issue. The only other electrical issue I have has to do with the fuel pump. If I turn the key on and put the bike into first gear, my fuel pump will start & fill up the float bowls if the bike has been sitting for a few days. I've always wondered if these 2 quirks were related?

[triton28]

Barry;
your fuel pump operating like that isn't a quirk as the 1986 and 1987s had different wiring on the fuel pump which had the Bk/W lead of the last harness connector at the fuel pump body, ( Bk/Y from the connector to the pump), going to an internal harness crimp connection onto the Bk wire running between the starter button and the starter circuit relay.
Starting with the B-2s (1988s), the Bk/W wire at the pump connector became internally crimp connected to the Bk/W wire of the starter circuit relay.
This difference allowed the 1986 and 1987 pumps to operate before using the starter button.
There is no interaction with the low fuel light working/not working issue
Dave

[Barry]

so much for that bit of information. That just leaves me with one electrical problem which can wait until after this riding season. I know some have installed switches which allow them to run their fuel pump prior to starting. This might be a better solution on the newer bikes.

[Nails]

> I've tried replacing the sending unit which didn't help.

I gather you changed the whole thing, not just the red light part.

I still haven't gotten to this on mine. I don't think my low level sending unit works at all, so need to check. But it sure ran out of gas without ever lighting.

My plan is to get the fuel low enough not to leak when I pull the sending unit, and then leave it on as I pull the unit to see if I can find some level that makes the light come on. I also hope to verify that it's a normally open switch. (The reported issues replacing this red dash light with an LED gives me some pause.)

I'm still planning fab in something else, maybe at a higher fuel level to be useful.

[voyager55]

You guys make simple solutions way to hard to fix.. Just use your odometer/gauge & know when to fill up/ You shouldn't need a light to tell you.

[Nails]

I just use the odometer on my dirt bike. But it has about 30 miles of reserve on the petcock.
If it useful, which this is, I want it to work. I really can't stand hauling useless stuff on a motorcycle.