Cruise Control when NOT in OD?

[VoyKimmer]

Fender inserts worked great. Yes my old ones were crushed and couldn't be reused. My cousin just brought an 03 in Iowa that I helped him get it home. The speedo didn't work along with cruise, turn signal cancel, and radio volume. The speedo sending unit was disintegrated due to lack of grease. I had an extra one and cable that we put in before the trip back. His fender inserts were crushed and his fender cracked. I will have him contact you. I had the same problem on my 96 and had to replace the fender. It could not be saved. I tried repairing it several times and almost lost it on a trip.

[Nails]

Okay, I finally got a chance to work on this. First thing in the manual:

• Indicator SET Light Inspection
  • Disconnect the control unit 13P connector.
  • Turn on the ignition switch, engine stop switch, and main switch.
  • Ground the #7 terminal (R/Y) in the harness side connector with an auxiliary wire. The indicator SET light should turn on.
  • If the indicator SET light does not turn on, inspect the bulb and the wire(s) supplying battery power.
  • If the above check proves good, the control unit must be replaced.

Looks like I need a control unit (21175-1056).This probably gives an inmate here deja vu.

(I haven't checked that solenoid yet.)

edit: Should I get a new one? They're only $1,056.64 (https://www.rcpw.com/kawasaki-engine-pa ... -2054.html).

[Nails]

check out all the cut - out switch's

I think I have a couple things going on at the same time. My cruise quit in mid-ride and I couldn't Set it (but it did come On). This might've been the foot brake light switch because I swapped back to pegs from floorboards but didn't readjust this "hidden" switch. But the brake lights weren't coming on at all, so probably not. I checked all the other switches I could get to (loose connection on hand brake), and put it all back together. But before buttoning it all up, I grounded that OD switch.

To make matters worse, I completely hijacked the cruise switches/lights. I mean, I removed the control panel from the tank (put a map holder there) and put LEDs and a switch in the fairing. Since I pulled the radio, along with that gawdawful pile of radio controls on the left switchset, I also hijacked the tape/radio switch to be the new cruise main (On) switch. (I just needed the one Set switch, which I put on the fairing.)

I know you're thinking it's a hopeless mess, but I was careful and it all worked swell for a few weeks. (Red circle is the two lights and Set switch, yellow circle is a light that comes on with the fan, and blue circle is the cruise main On switch.)

Bottom line, I don't know why it suddenly shut off and then wouldn't Set, but that might be fixed now. Too many moving parts.

But one thing's for sure, now the cruise won't switch On in the first place. Dunno. Maybe the control module partially died and now is totally dead?

I'm just going back to the manual, step by step.

Also check the cruise control relay.

Okay, that's the one by itself behind the headlight. I've been in there, too -- LED headlight. And I moved those relays so they wouldn't catch and hold water so bad. This relay looks good, unlike others that were corroded. Do you know how to test them? It has a little diagram on the side that I can figure out, except I can't identify which pin is which.

At any rate, I swapped with another relay and it still doesn't work.

Continued thanks.

[Barry]

By chance, did you see the post "cruise control wires" over on the general chat forum? If you left the plug for the cruise control pod, this would be a quick way to bypass all your hard work and prove it wasn't something you did. The only negative to this setup is there's no 'set' light.

[Nails]

No. I never even knew all that chatter was there.

I thought about just dumping the whole thing except a Set switch. But where I put the LEDs is behind the chin piece of my helmet, so I can't see the lights unless I tilt my head. I haven't ridden long at night yet, but I don't think they'll bother me.

The On switch is opposite of the Set switch (one normally open and the other normally closed -- don't remember which is which). I mean, I might've decided the other way if I could've used the orphaned radio/tape switch for Set. That would've saved putting anything on the fairing. (But I just had to find something for that radio/tape switch to do!)

I'm waiting to hear from Carl Leo about a control module.

[cranky]

.. from this point of the speed control other than 5th gear...
I missed the point of -why- ? I can get up to 30, drop it
in 5th and set the speed control.... so it can't be speed,
why Ya beatin' yer head against it? TIA

[Barry]

If you were pulling a trailer and had a passenger I don't think you would like the results (cruise set in 5th @ 30mpg). I also doubt you could accelerate with traffic.

[cranky]

.... aaahhh, walk a mile in someone else’s shoes.... thanks!!!!

[MartinKemp]

Hi all, so my post saying that the cruise control "mod" worked perfectly was somewhat inaccurate - turned out to be a short lived victory. And I don't know why. I installed a short ground wire and put that under the mounting bold of the cruise module. It seemed "grounded enough" to work, but after about a week, cruise stopped engaging. So I ran a wire directly to the neg battery post, and viola, success.

Already mentioned in the posts was the suggestion that the ground wire be run to the battery or at least a location on the frame where a low resistance ground is assured. And so I concur with that. If the ground is good, the mod seems to work great!

Winter is almost here in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Till spring...

Martin

[Barry]

Just a reminder from my original post & picture. "FYI I chose to tie this wire to one of the many ground wires near this plug." All of the ground wires are black with a yellow tracer. I think I used one from one of the fairing lights, but can't remember since I did this 14 years ago!

[ekap1200]

Hi all, so my post saying that the cruise control "mod" worked perfectly was somewhat inaccurate - turned out to be a short lived victory. And I don't know why. I installed a short ground wire and put that under the mounting bold of the cruise module. It seemed "grounded enough" to work, but after about a week, cruise stopped engaging. So I ran a wire directly to the neg battery post, and viola, success.

Already mentioned in the posts was the suggestion that the ground wire be run to the battery or at least a location on the frame where a low resistance ground is assured. And so I concur with that. If the ground is good, the mod seems to work great!

Winter is almost here in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Till spring...

Martin

Hello from NJ. Martin- since you feel it is better with an added ground, may I ask if you have inspected the ground wire that ( FEED'S ) the harness ? It is located at the engine block , THEN a pig-tail and connector ; using the same size wire and length as the positive harness feed BUT blk/yel wire , it's connector will be that single wire ( right above the rear/brake/reservoir ) The fuel pumps connector is also there and some have been over looked , on cleaning some times.
Also, if you have never had the handle bar switch's off ! Unplug them and remove the (1) screw that holds them on. look at it upside down / you will see (2) holes . those are the best ways clean and lube. The one on the brake , if you look close , you can even see the one contact open and close. I use a spray bottle of dish-detergent/water, right into the hole and clean out with compressed air. SEVERAL times as needed. then using (CONTROL/CLEANER & LUBRICANT ) WORK that into the hole's. ( remove excess with compressed -
air ) So in doing this you make it easy to service the sw's And now just test them with whatever you have . even a 9 VOLT battery and a test lamp will work well.
And the best part is NO MESS , use a rag on the work bench and you no spray on the bikes finish...