Servos and aux lights

[Nails]

I've gone all LED lights, so I have some wattage to play with. I plan to install these auxiliary lights: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-2-5-COB-LED- ... p2&vxp=mtr. Kinda pricy ($50 for both, with shipping). I picked them because they aren't too bright, are super small, not too ugly, and have separate wiring for the fog and spot parts. They seem to be well made, even if the instructions are goofy translations: "It is that shell has a slight fever belong to the normal." I understand COB LEDs are a little brighter than "conventional" LEDs (https://www.solarlightsmanufacturer.com ... d-smd-led/). I'll mount them on the front tip-over bars -- will have to fab brackets.

I plan to wire them so that the fog lights come on with a new dash switch. That switch would also turn on the spots, but only if the high beams are on. I got this STDP switch: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ca ... IC8w%3d%3d, with a rubber boot on the toggle. I also plan to use servos (Denso 056700-5260, Toyota 90987-02004, about $10ea), which are the same as the 7 or 8 already on the bike (just carry one spare). I think this plug will work: http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/75, $10 for three with shipping, on order.

I'm also installing a third switch/servo (single pole) for heated grips. Later. All this crap will live behind the left fairing, near where the switches will be.

I still need to figure out how the servos should be wired. I think I need to provide low-current 12V across pins 1 and 3 (brass, right pair), then it'll switch high-current 12V across 2 and 4 (copper pins). So I'd wire 2 or 4 on the servo to + on the lights (fog) and - to ground. Then the other servo pin (2/4) to some high-current source (I need to find this). Then 1 or 3 on the servo to some low-current source (need to find), and the other servo pin (1/3) to one side of one pole of the DP switch. Finally, the other side of that pole to ground. Likewise with the spot light, using another servo and the other pole of the switch; except I need to find a 12V source somewhere in the harness after the high-beam switch. This way, if my headlight fails, or even its servo fails, these aux lights would stay on.

So $150, but I think it'll be reliable and otherwise nice. And I'm ready for heated grips.

Do you see a problem with how I'm interpreting the wiring? I don't actually know what I'm doing here.

[Nails]

That plug works great ... except the male side fits the servo. It needs to be the female blade.
Oh well.

[ekap1200]

That plug works great ... except the male side fits the servo. It needs to be the female blade.
Oh well.

So to not confuse some.... SERVO is a electric motor with a feedback encoder . Are you referring to a RELAY ?

[Nails]

Relay. Or solenoid even. But I'm blowing off all of that part -- making things way too complicated.
Most of the parts are in, and I hope to have it sorted in the next few days. Still waiting on oil pan o-rings anyway.

[Barry]

Relays are very easy to wire if you have an ohm meter. The pins on the relay that have continuity wire to your switch, battery & ground. The other 2 pins wire to 12 volts and whatever device you want juice to. Having fuses in the circuit is also a good idea. There's lots of diagrams out there showing how to do this. The main reason for putting in a relay is to avoid burning the contacts inside the on/off switch.

[Nails]

Thanks. That's what I originally had in mind. But the wires that came with these lights are very light gauge. I'm still going to use them because they have fuses, some black box thing I was warned to use, nice plugs, &etc. And these switches look pretty stout -- surely able to handle anything those wires can. So I finally decided to just wire them straight through without relays.