1200 Headlight LED Bulb
Moderators: the2knights, Highway Rider
- SgtSlag
- King of the Road
- Posts: 1054
- Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:04 pm
- 14
- Current bike(s): 1993 Voyager XII (2010)
(2006-2012: 1979 Honda CB750K)
(2008-2010: 1983 Kawasaki 440LTD, belt drive) - Location: Minnesota
- Has liked: 23 times
- Been liked: 235 times
Re: 1200 Headlight LED Bulb
LED headlights CAN be modulated, but you need a modulator for an LED headlight... The standard, filament, Modulators will NOT work with LED headlights. The LED-specific Modulators cost more than filament-type Modulators, but they work flawlessly.
As far as using resistors with LED headlights, the answer is, Yes, they DO defeat the purpose of using an LED to reduce current draw on the charging system.
The LED headlight draws less amperes, which triggers the headlight failure circuit. By adding a load resistor, you are increasing the amperage draw to match the draw of a filament-type headlight, eliminating your amperage savings, preventing the failure-circuit from activating. If you want to use heated gear (gloves, vest, seat), you will need to save amps to prevent your battery from discharging when you run the heated gear. The best way to do this, is to reduce the load on the charging system by changing out the lights to LED's, which draw a fraction of the amps filament bulbs draw. The freed up amperes can then operate your heated gear, and charge your battery properly...
To run heated gear, you need to know how many Watts they draw, how many Watts your lights are using, and how many Watts your charging system can output, maximum. Subtract the Watts from each device, from the total output: if the number is negative, your battery is discharging; if the number is positive, your battery is charging, and life will be good, but make sure you have a positive cushion of 15 Watts, or more.
Alternatively, you can install a Voltmeter, connected directly to the battery. If it reads above 13 Volts, your battery is charging (14 Volts is better); if it reads less than 13 Volts, your battery is discharging, and you are running on borrowed time. When your battery voltage drops below 12.0 Volts, you likely won't be able to start your engine...
I switched all of my bike's lights, except for the instrument panel's bulbs, to LED's. My charging voltage, running down the highway, increased from 13 Volts, to over 14 Volts. This means that I have more Amperes pumping into my AGM battery, which I hope will make it last longer than two years (plugged into a Battery Tender, 1.2 Amp model, religiously, when the bike is parked in the garage...).
The LED lights are as bright, if not brighter (the LED Headlight is around double the Lumen output of the filament bulb!), but I was careful in ordering LED replacements, making sure they have equal to, or higher, Lumen output, compared to the filament bulb they replaced. The real kicker is their MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure): 30,000-50,000 hours; the MTBF of a filament bulb is typically 5,000-7,000 hours. The LED's will last longer than I likely will. I should never need to change another bulb, aside from the instrument lights. I will change those to LED's, when the first filament bulb fails. Cheers!
As far as using resistors with LED headlights, the answer is, Yes, they DO defeat the purpose of using an LED to reduce current draw on the charging system.
The LED headlight draws less amperes, which triggers the headlight failure circuit. By adding a load resistor, you are increasing the amperage draw to match the draw of a filament-type headlight, eliminating your amperage savings, preventing the failure-circuit from activating. If you want to use heated gear (gloves, vest, seat), you will need to save amps to prevent your battery from discharging when you run the heated gear. The best way to do this, is to reduce the load on the charging system by changing out the lights to LED's, which draw a fraction of the amps filament bulbs draw. The freed up amperes can then operate your heated gear, and charge your battery properly...
To run heated gear, you need to know how many Watts they draw, how many Watts your lights are using, and how many Watts your charging system can output, maximum. Subtract the Watts from each device, from the total output: if the number is negative, your battery is discharging; if the number is positive, your battery is charging, and life will be good, but make sure you have a positive cushion of 15 Watts, or more.
Alternatively, you can install a Voltmeter, connected directly to the battery. If it reads above 13 Volts, your battery is charging (14 Volts is better); if it reads less than 13 Volts, your battery is discharging, and you are running on borrowed time. When your battery voltage drops below 12.0 Volts, you likely won't be able to start your engine...
I switched all of my bike's lights, except for the instrument panel's bulbs, to LED's. My charging voltage, running down the highway, increased from 13 Volts, to over 14 Volts. This means that I have more Amperes pumping into my AGM battery, which I hope will make it last longer than two years (plugged into a Battery Tender, 1.2 Amp model, religiously, when the bike is parked in the garage...).
The LED lights are as bright, if not brighter (the LED Headlight is around double the Lumen output of the filament bulb!), but I was careful in ordering LED replacements, making sure they have equal to, or higher, Lumen output, compared to the filament bulb they replaced. The real kicker is their MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure): 30,000-50,000 hours; the MTBF of a filament bulb is typically 5,000-7,000 hours. The LED's will last longer than I likely will. I should never need to change another bulb, aside from the instrument lights. I will change those to LED's, when the first filament bulb fails. Cheers!
SgtSlag
1993 Voyager XII
1993 Voyager XII
-
- Board Member
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:12 am
- 14
- Current bike(s): 2003 Voyager xii
2000 Voyager xii
2000 Voyager xii
1988 Voyager xii
1977 Suzuki GT500B
2000 Escapade Cargo Trailer
2001 Escapade Cargo Trailer
2009 Kompact Kamp Cargo Trailer - Location: Lewisberry PA
- Has liked: 0
- Been liked: 5 times
Re: 1200 Headlight LED Bulb
I went with the Arastar brand led headlight from amazon as per sgtslag in both of my 1200's. Nice bright white light and good beam pattern. I will replace the driving/fog lights next. Very easy install. Truly plug and play. It took about a half hour to do both bikes.
-
- King of the Road
- Posts: 1982
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:08 pm
- 13
- Current bike(s): '99 Kawasaki Voyager 1200
1958 Cushman Eagle restoration has been finished,and have put 3030 miles on her! - Location: Orrville,Ohio
- Has liked: 852 times
- Been liked: 290 times
Re: 1200 Headlight LED Bulb
Good to hear from you Air Force,how is the GT500 coming?Air Force wrote:I went with the Arastar brand led headlight from amazon as per sgtslag in both of my 1200's. Nice bright white light and good beam pattern. I will replace the driving/fog lights next. Very easy install. Truly plug and play. It took about a half hour to do both bikes.
'99 Voyager VXII,'58 Cushman Eagle
-
- Board Member
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:12 am
- 14
- Current bike(s): 2003 Voyager xii
2000 Voyager xii
2000 Voyager xii
1988 Voyager xii
1977 Suzuki GT500B
2000 Escapade Cargo Trailer
2001 Escapade Cargo Trailer
2009 Kompact Kamp Cargo Trailer - Location: Lewisberry PA
- Has liked: 0
- Been liked: 5 times
Re: 1200 Headlight LED Bulb
Funny that you mentioned the GT500. I haven't checked or heard from the restoration guy in five months. I will be checking up on the 500 in January. I am becoming frustrated at the total lack of progress and will be pursuing others avenues contingent on what I find out in January.
-
- King of the Road
- Posts: 1982
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:08 pm
- 13
- Current bike(s): '99 Kawasaki Voyager 1200
1958 Cushman Eagle restoration has been finished,and have put 3030 miles on her! - Location: Orrville,Ohio
- Has liked: 852 times
- Been liked: 290 times
Re: 1200 Headlight LED Bulb
That is quite a disappointing response to my questionAir Force wrote:Funny that you mentioned the GT500. I haven't checked or heard from the restoration guy in five months. I will be checking up on the 500 in January. I am becoming frustrated at the total lack of progress and will be pursuing others avenues contingent on what I find out in January.
I was hoping you would tell me it is finished,and looks and runs great!
'99 Voyager VXII,'58 Cushman Eagle