Anyone Replaced Steering Stem Bearnings?

[Barry]

Anyone near Nampa Idaho with experience replacing steering stem bearings & races? I could probably drive the races out of the frame with a drift, but don't have a way to seat the new ones. Also I don't have a way to remove the lower bearing from the steering stem. It would be nice to have proper tools and someone with knowledge removing & replacing them. Bike is currently up on a lift & partially disassembled for winter maintenance. Thanks.

[Nails]

Other bike (dirt), other times ... I've driven them out with a short rod (say 8" long, 3/8" diameter), tapping around. And gotten them back in using a couple big washers with a long bolt through the middle. (Had to retorque after some riding, but I think you always do.) I have no idea whether that would work on XII. And last time (Goldwing), I took it to a shop -- mostly because where I lived I didn't have an easy way to get that heavy front wheel off the ground.

Non-sequitur: took that Wing to an independent Harley shop. Soon after, the owner got a real job (oilfield), but also had hernia surgery. He had a lot of bikes to get out, so I ended up becoming a Harley mechanic in the evenings. Got a nice set of leathers and memories of the weirdos who lurk at Harley shops in the evenings.

[Barry]

Thanks Nails for the feedback. I went ahead & ordered bearings this morning. I've heard of others using the same technique you described. I will likely do as you described. I saw a video online showing how to cut the stem bearing and split it. Not too sure about the best way to place the new one. I'm thinking about getting some pipe and trying to tap it into place. Gene K suggested a transmission shop might have the correct tools to make this happen. I figure once I have the new bearings I will check with the trany shops before getting too creative. About the only issue left is pressing the races into the steering head. I will probably get some threaded rod and hopefully find some washers to pull the races into place. I will check the stem nut torque after a few hundred miles unless I detect something amiss sooner. Sure would be nice if someone would make spacers that could be used when pressing races into the frame or onto the steering stem.

[HMB Don]

Berry
Nails is correct on how to drive the races out of the steering head. Just make sure that the driver you use has good edges on the end that meets the race, use at least a 2 lbs.. last strike the shaft with lots of force. Save the old races for now.

Next the bearing on the steering shaft, Motion Pro makes a tool cost is around $150.00. Without the tool, clean as much grease off the shaft, place the assembly in a plastic bag and place in the freezer overnight, also place the new bearing in the freezer. When you get the stem from the freezer, use C clamps to clamp it to your bench, using the same technique removing the races in steering head. Remember there's a seal under the bearing.
To install the new bearing on the shaft, look for a metal pipe that will fit over the shaft. With bothered shaft and bearing in the freezer then bearing should seat easier. You'll know when the bearing is seated by the sound it'll make when you hit your driver.

Now back to the bearing races in the steering head. Start with the upper race! Place the new face in position tap it until it's flush with frame, place one of the old races on top of the new race and use as a driver. Again when the race is seated the sound will change.

Good luck

[HMB Don]

Here is a picture of the tools I used

[HMB Don]

Here is a picture of the tools I used

[Barry]

Thanks Don for the tips and pictures. I understand the logic of putting the stem in the freezer, but not the lower bearing that is being pressed onto the shaft? I do understand freezing the bearing races that install into the frame would make the job easier. It almost all makes sense.

[HMB Don]

Only the lower bearing that's going to be pressed into the steering stem goes onto the freezer

In the first picture the grease on the steering stem is five years old, picture was taken before I removed the old ball bearings. So buy the best grease, I recommend Amsoil racing bearing grease. Can be used on the drive shaft and rear wheel splines, I've used it on all the lever pivot points and my trailer wheel bearings.

[ekap1200]

Hello from NJ, Well after talking with you on the phone , I am hoping you have made some progress in removing the lower cup. I hope Carl, Don and I have cleared things up for you on removing and replacing the set of cup's / cones and the proper way of setting them up.
Feel free to contact us if your still having issues.
Gene Kap.

[Barry]

Still have the bottom race stuck. None of the suggestions seemed to work. I ordered a tool that looks just like the one in the shop manual at a fraction of the price. Life has gotten in the way of progress. Today was spent caring for our 8 month old granddaughter who is teething and has a cold. Also our other daughter was rear ended late last night. Her car was totaled. Thankfully she didn't break any bones, just lots of bruises. The next 3 days have other obligations. Hopefully my next post will have something positive to say.

[Barry]

It's amazing how easy a job can be with the right tools !!

Now the next obstacle is the steering stem dust seals. The All-Balls set I received has the right bearings, but the dust seals are wrong. I really mangled the lower one between the steering stem & the bearing, but I can't find it on the official kawasaki parts diagrams anywhere. I did find the upper seal shown on the frame diagram. My upper seal has a chip out of its side. I assume that's because instead of using the nice tool that Gene makes, the PO used a punch or screwdriver to tighten things up. Anyone know the part number for the lower seal? Should I attempt to grind out a bunch of metal on the inside diameter of the new seal so it will fit on the stem the way the original did?

[ekap1200]

Good job Barry, Us mechanics have quite a few saying, although they offend most DIYer's
one of them is " IF THE TOOLS NOT RIGHT THE BOYS NOT BRIGHT " We have many more, but some guys have no sense of humor. But you did the right thing. And learned that sometimes you just have to spend the money. You would have spent much more at a dealer, so even with the purchase you saved money. And someone may want to buy that tool off of you and you could recoup the cost of it or keep it the collection of least used tools you have. Most mechanics have tools we use maybe once or twice a year if that , but that's the nature of this game.....



Gene Kap.

[ekap1200]

I would suggest getting back to the vendor , or if anyone would know what other bike may use that part it would be Carl. Maybe the Connie uses it and it may still be in the shops. Or another bike may use something that will fit. You my have to work that new one you have to fit. If the minor ID is all that is different you may have retrofit it and be sure to clean it off of all grinding crap.

[Barry]

Kawasaki to the rescue. How come all the cool stuff they used to make is discontinued? I got out my Kawasaki tool kit to modify the lower seal. Pay no attention to the felt marker line I drew. It wasn't centered properly due to using the damaged old seal as a guide. I'm pleased that this fix took so little time.

[Me Again]

I disagree.
I find about 90% of all jobs can be taken care of with 4 simple tools.
Of course you need a hammer for mechanical problems and if that does not work a good BFH.
Then you need a screw driver for electrical fixes and of course a good BFS for more complex problems.
Note that the BFS can be used with the BFH for stubborn fixes .
Some people like to have a wall or a box filled with nice shiny toys but that is up to you.

[cushman eagle]

A Victor fire wrench can make some repairs not necessary
I had a customer years ago who called me to his farm to remove the blade from his Lawn Boy mower,sharpen it, and reinstall it.
When I got there,his son had already taken the blade off using a torch cutting the crankshaft right above the blade.
I just left,it did not pay to sharpen the blade!

[Nails]

Bill, I must disagree with you. About 90% of all jobs can be repaired with a chainsaw file and a BIGGER hammer.
(Big is better, and bigger than that is better than that.)

[Eydugstr]

Both tools look like a much better way to spend an afternoon instead of pounding away with a hammer and punch...

Does anyone remember off the top of their heads the proper mm size needed for the right tool to remove the races from the frame?

[Barry]

The tool I purchased for pulling the races out of the frame adjusts from 30-68mm. It doesn't say who makes it but the part number is MK-2455. the lower race ID is 45mm. The upper race is 37mm. Now getting the bearing off the steering stem is another matter.....

[Eydugstr]

The tool I purchased for pulling the races out of the frame adjusts from 30-68mm. It doesn't say who makes it but the part number is MK-2455. the lower race ID is 45mm. The upper race is 37mm. Now getting the bearing off the steering stem is another matter.....

TY Barry. Looks like a lot better option for getting the races out of the frame. The $150 dollar tool HMB Don mentioned is the one for getting the stem bearing off, so between the two think it'll make for a much smoother job. In the past I've done the Hammer, BFH, and rotating different punches for luck, which did work but it was hard enough work to make me think "There has got to be a better way..." so I'll go ahead and spend the extra bucks.