Deka ETX-18L battery

[Nails]

This is an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) "maintenance free" design. Lots of praise in webistan.

According to http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/mot ... 200cc.html, the ETX-18L is the one for Voyagers. I ordered it from Bohannon, got it right away, and everything was going swimmingly.

But it doesn't really fit. I had to modify the battery tray (both sides on the bottom, plus the top strap). This was a welding project that took me all day, but I'm very slow.

This battery is shorter (height and length) but thicker. It does fit, but just barely, wedged between the fuze box and airbox. It definitely won't fit in the stock battery tray. I still have to fab a hold-down strap -- the terminals are on the back of the battery, right where the strap goes across.

I also had to charge it up when I got it. It turned the motor over, but really needed an hour on the charger to come up to full power.

Despite the fuss, I'd buy it again. Seems very nice, and I don't see any real need to go back. But if you don't have a torch, you might want to look at the actual dimensions, perhaps to order a thinner one.

[Van Voyager]

I've been using Deka batteries (under the 'Big Crank' trade-name) in various bikes for years. Install and forget. Couldn't be happier. When my current ZN1300 battery dies, I'm hoping I can find a Big Crank that will fit.

[Nails]

Well, one kinda weird thing that's come up: sometimes the battery quits in a goofy way. I'm screwing with the bike and that's stressing the battery (compression testing &etc.) -- hoping this is related to a low battery.

Most recently (this afternoon), I started the bike and was running it at a high idle, when the engine suddenly shut off. The dash lights all lit up. But the weird part is that the dash lights stayed lit up even when I turned the key off. I had to disconnect the battery (which was already exposed and handy). I hooked the battery back up right away, and all seemed to be fine.

This weirdness happened a couple times yesterday, too. (At first I thought I had the battery polarity reversed.) So far, it's only happened when the battery was pretty low (as in not enough juice to keep the solenoid from chattering).

I have no idea whether this is an XII thing or a problem with the battery. I hope to take a long ride soon to charge the battery right. It's on the charger again now.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

I just installed a new battery ordered from Mighty Max (2 of the 3 batteries in the past 12 years have been Mighty Max AGM with no issues, 3rd was a wet cell lead acid). The battery is YTX24HL-BS, and fits directly in with no modifications. They also have GEL batteries that are also a direct fit. Service life is between 4-5 years and that's without a good float/trickle charger attached. Cost was $64.99 AGM (GEL runs $74.99).
I think it's possible that the battery you've gotten isn't correct for the Voyager XII, of the vendor is stretching the truth a bit (it fits with modifications).
Glad you got it in and running either way!

[Nails]

Well, not really running. See new thread -- sheesh.
My battery was more like $100. It fits so snug that it's hard to imagine a scenario where a hold-down strap would do anything and that I'm not already dead. So I'm thinking of a webbing/velcro affair -- let's see if it deteriorates.

[dsmmrm]

I bought an AGM battery for my 01 in March for $62.50 from Amazon. Seems to be working ok. It is purportedly made by "Chrome Battery" but I assume it is a re-branded Chinese import like most are these days.

I wish I had some insight into the gremlins but that is a pretty bizarre interaction. Maybe liberate the wiring and ignition switch components from their mountings and wiggle some wires until you find what is shorting/broken.

[dsmmrm]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008B ... UTF8&psc=1

in case anyone cares

[Nails]

Apologies for resurrecting this old thread, but I have an update that I wanted to put here.

Despite the fuss, I'd buy it again. Seems very nice, and I don't see any real need to go back. But if you don't have a torch, you might want to look at the actual dimensions, perhaps to order a thinner one.

Since fall, the battery loses charge in less than a week, even when disconnected from the bike. It apparently lost charge during shipping (see above). Disappointing.

I'll do some testing to see if this is because it's been outside in the cold.

But I can't recommend Deka gel batteries any more.

[cushman eagle]

We have not tried a Deka gel battery,but have had very good luck with their lead acid batteries in our trucks and tractors

[Van Voyager]

You should sent it back - i'm sure they're replace it.

PS: They're not 'gel' batteries.

[ekap1200]

Apologies for resurrecting this old thread, but I have an update that I wanted to put here.

Despite the fuss, I'd buy it again. Seems very nice, and I don't see any real need to go back. But if you don't have a torch, you might want to look at the actual dimensions, perhaps to order a thinner one.

Since fall, the battery loses charge in less than a week, even when disconnected from the bike. It apparently lost charge during shipping (see above). Disappointing.

I'll do some testing to see if this is because it's been outside in the cold.

But I can't recommend Deka gel batteries any more.

first off If it didn't fit, I would have contacted the vendor. perhaps it is not the battery for the voyager, Major issue being you said it was backwards and not a correct fit. Secondly, once these batteries that are sealed for the life of the battery a hydrometer can not be used and there would have been the paperwork on how to correctly charge it and test it using the NO/LOAD VOLTAGE METHOD. All new batteries need to charged to 100% no matter who tells you differently...Now with that in mind a good voltmeter is needed. follow the directions that came with the battery and all should be good.

I have this year proven that fact. My battery is in the bike but disconnected. In the fall it was connected to a " smart charger " brought up to 100 % per the chargers digital readout in percent of charge for sealed lead acid battery. Which at 100 % will show 12.80 volts. So to test that , in one month I checked the battery and its voltage had dropped to 12.68 which registered within 30 seconds on the smart charger as being 96 % of full charge. Now during that month the oil was changed and the bike started ONE time and run for about 3 min. Charged again to 100 % and let sit for one more month. This past Sunday a voltage test showed 12.72 and a charge of
99 % . After two min on the charger !00% was indicated at 12.8 volts verified by the chargers voltmeter, a Fluke 88 meter. and a anolog FET METER. So there it is in a nut shell. these batteries must be brought to 100 % before being put in service and while storing them for the off season. And may I add my two cents, on starting the bike every week and just letting it run will only knock down the percent of charge, Your taking more out of the battery than your putting back into it .......

[Van Voyager]

..... starting the bike every week and just letting it run will only knock down the percent of charge, Y......

Not to mention contributing needless engine wear for no benefit.

[Nails]

They're not 'gel' batteries.

Okay, absorbed glass mat. Sorry -- I was in a hurry.

first off If it didn't fit, I would have contacted the vendor.

It didn't fit right, but I could make it work without a lot of work. There's some advantage to the snug fit. And I wanted to ride, anyway.

perhaps it is not the battery for the voyager

That was my warning to others. But not willing to go through exchange once I had it.

All new batteries need to charged to 100% no matter who tells you differently

No argument here. It seems to charge quickly and turns the bike over great. No problem if I ride at least once a week in the summer. I think it doesn't tolerate cold weather, but maybe it doesn't hold a charge at all.

I just charged it to move the bike back into my "shop" (too much ice in the driveway to go anywhere else). I'm keeping the battery near the woodstove to see if it holds a charge when warm.

all should be good.

Yep, all should be good. That's my gripe.

So there it is in a nut shell.

Yep, this battery isn't performing right.

My (conventional lead-acid) battery before this one held a charge fairly well, until it totally died. This battery should hold a charge better. Then all would be good. Not quite accepting that it's my fault.

[Bulrid8]

Are you using a charger designed for AGM batteries?

[Nails]

Yeah, Schumacher I think. (Why do these batteries work with my 1997 alternator system?)

Last time I parked it after a 45 min ride. Disconnected the ground, but the battery still went low. Pumped up the carbs like normal, but no cranking power.

[cranky]

... it can only be because your battery has an ISR = Internal Series Resistance...

...internal short...

[Nails]

internal short

Nope. Works fine once charged. Just doesn't hold a charge over a week or so.

Maybe it was damaged when I was running compression checks. Discharged a lot, and then recharged on the alternator. Dunno.

Still curious whether it holds a charge when warm.

[cranky]

... them 'lectrons went somewhere... If they weren't passing
thru the ground.... wonder where? GBG Hasta be lost
internally.... JM2C

[Nails]

The battery is definitely toast -- only charges to 70%. But I now have reason to suspect a problem with my charger.
New battery, new charger, and I'll probably never figure it out beyond that.
Sheesh.

[Mr Jensee]

Nails I know you are not an idiot so I wont go there. Every battery including the AGMs I use MUST be fully charged with a regular battery charger before using. A smart charger just won't do it because they are usually no more than 1 amp of charging. Are you sure your voltage in the bike is enough to charge the battery ie 13.5 to 14 volts? Sounds like it isn't and you are running the bike strictly off the battery.