center stand

[Nails]

Rather than hijack the "Bumpy ride" thread, I'm starting a new one.

It's always been a hassle to get my XII on the center stand. Even with my wife helping/spotting; with the back seat, trunk and bracket, and bags removed; with Progressive forks and 35lbs in the shocks (I generally ride solo; and with 1/2" plywood under each wheel -- still difficult. Dunno why.

Even on the center stand, front tire on that 1/2" of plywood, the rear tire still isn't off it's 1/2" of plywood. (I'll have to jerk it out (I'm pulling the rear wheel for a new tire.) I suspect that's normal, but that it sags too much under nominal weight.

Yes, my headers were bashed to hell and gone. I have another thread about repairing them.

From the "Bumpy ride" thread:

If you put Progressive springs in the front, and the rear is too low on air, that will make it harder to put on stand. The Progressive's usually extends the front ride height, which will magnify the problem with low air in the rear. I run 40 lbs. in the rear as I like sportier handling, about 36 to 38 for slightly softer. Front air with Progressive springs (the oil filter and spacer should be removed with the Progressives), most run 0 - 10 lbs.

I think I'm there. (I completely removed the front air system and plugged the fork holes.)

I would highly recommend the rear Progressive Shocks. Why mess with the air pressure, and the oil changes? The suspension upgrade (front and rear Progressives), was money well spent.

I might have to go there, even though the stock shocks with fresh oil work swell. Possibly excepting this.

[edit;] Don't really know how to measure my rear sag under static load -- maybe someone could measure the distance between the ground and the bottom of the center stand bracket?

I think something's wrong. Either that, or the Cosmos is telling me to leave the center stand at home.

[cranky]

... same with my scoot, the center stand is unworkable...
I got a scissor jack, and use the center stand to lift the scoot,
being it is the lowest point and saves the exhaust...

Works fine as long as ya keep the scoot straight up as it goes
on and off the jack... if ya don't hold it... it'll tip the bike
over... but it is easy and not too expensive...

IIRC, it will hold @1100#'s and cost @50 bucks...

[Mr Jensee]

Question, Is your center stand in tact? Does it have the pedal still attached? If it is bent but still there you will have to pull the stand and straighten it. If it isn't bent you have to remember to be on level ground preferably concrete. Leave the side stand out and make sure the bike is in neutral so it will roll freely. Grab the left handlebar grip with the left hand, grab the left passenger grab rail with the other hand. Use your right foot to lower the first portion of the center stand. Rock the bike to make sure that both sides of the stand are touching the ground. Now take that same foot and push down on pedal portion and put your entire weight on it. At the same time pull back on both the handlebar and the passenger rail. The bike should rock back onto the stand with a thump. You dont have to weigh much to get this to happen. You should not need boards or anything under the tires.

[Nails]

Question, Is your center stand in tact?

Well, the bike is on it now and has been several times. Seems perfectly intact.

Does it have the pedal still attached?

It's one solid chunk of metal. I'd take a picture, but it looks like Cranky's.

If it is bent but still there you will have to pull the stand and straighten it.

It's certainly still there. Dunno about bent -- not obviously. Pretty stout metal, so I doubt it. Would have second thoughts about taking the torch to it.

That's why I asked for some ride height measurements. I really think the stand is too close to the ground. I'll try to measure that when I get the new back tire on and take it off the stand. (Maybe some rear tire tread would help )

If it isn't bent you have to remember ... The bike should rock back onto the stand with a thump.

Doing all that, and totally get the "should" part. Like I say, something's wrong.

And "thump" hell ... It's so hard that once I pulled it clear over the center stand -- I hadn't known that was possible. Glad someone else was around to help me push it forward onto the stand!

I'm telling you, it's really a bitch to get on the stand. Every relevant thing save the Progressive forks is stock.

Be nice to have this work right.

[VoyKimmer]

Look at these. It’s a two stage center stand. First put down the first stage that looks like a tube. Some voyagers have them broken off. If you have no tube looking portion to put down it’s broken off.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XSFd9L6lMro

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ttSA7SaW-dA

[Mr Jensee]

Neil I had the same problem you had putting Charlie's Voyager on the stand when I was servicing it. it had the original fork springs on it and air shocks in the back. I noticed immediately when I sat on it off the center stand that it sat lower than mine did. My Progressive forks are in my opinion too stiff since I put them in. I put in Honda 10 wt. fork oil but I think it should have maybe used 5wt. Will change that this spring along with other services. I wonder if you have the same soft shock problem Charlie's bike had. It was a bitch to put on the center stand unless I "charged" up it's shocks.

[Nails]

Look at these.

Okay, my bust. I do not have the 2-stage unit.

I don't see where anything broke off.

Can I buy a 2-stage stand and just bolt it up?

[VoyKimmer]

Yes you can while on it’s side stand. Difficult with the exhaust installed. I did my second one with the exhaust removed. Much easier. Mine are chromed on both my voyagers. Looks good.

First stage lever is welded on the inside of the left foot. They get water in them and rust off.
I filled mine on one bike with insulating foam and on the other with grease.

[Nails]

Muchas gracias. Will look for the right one.
(You restored my masculinity -- I mean, if a girl can get it on the center stand ).

[cranky]

... don't set 'urself up for a jolt... I have a good working?
2 stage and still have the same problem...

Someone did a welding number on your stand.. or it would work
as 2 pieces... Best to Ya!!!!

[Nails]

... don't set 'urself up for a jolt... I have a good working?
2 stage and still have the same problem...

Cranky, how much would it take to make you want to trade -- my one-stage, that doesn't work, for your two-stage that doesn't work?

I'm not seeing many used XII two-stage center stands, but the few that are out there are cheap ($40). Actually, the one-stage stands seem more expensive -- weird.

The only chrome ones I see right now are for 1300 -- I assume those don't really fit the XII. But I don't need chrome anyway.


Apologies again for not paying attention to the difference between one- and two-stage. I've been cutting firewood, brain-dead fried, and got confused about the side and center stand pedals. And I had no idea two different stands were available.

[Mr Jensee]

You just need some more Cajun food my friend.

[Nails]

Ain't that the truth!

[SgtSlag]

Regarding the Progressive Front Fork Springs, and the stock, air shocks... I read, somewhere, that replacing only the Front Fork Springs, with Progressives, will correct the poor performance of the front suspension, while amplifying the failing qualities of the rear, stock air suspension. Most of us, here, have done a full conversion, and I believe the majority were impressed with the difference.

The Progressive suspension parts are not the highest quality. Ohlins shocks would make us Progressive users cry. But, the Progressives are much lower priced than Ohlins, so they are affordable to a larger number of riders. If I installed Ohlins shocks, the shocks, alone, would be more valuable than the rest of my bike! Would love Ohlins, and a higher grade of Fork Springs, but I'll live with the Progressives. Have to pick and choose my upgrades -- no money trees growing in our yard... Cheers!

[Nails]

No money trees here, either. (But I've been sawing the hell out of the pinons and junipers that are encroaching on our ponderosa forests. The p-j tremble when they see my wood-hauling truck park.)

I regret not springing for RaceTec. But several of us, including Don Medina if memory serves, are quite content with the stock shocks. Fresh ATF works wonders.

Speaking of shocks, I let my back tire go completely bald. I bet the new tire will do more than any suspension. ;)

[HMB Don]

2002 Voyager 1200

I do like the stock air shocks on Voyager 1200 are very good. But they do need to in good condition, no oil leaks. These are top quality shocks, may new owners of Voyager 1200 have never had the opportunity to ride on these shocks when they were new.

Not many people don't have a money tree in the back yard. For no more then $14.00 to change the shock oil. Other than Amsoil I use Honda Showa fork oil, use only synthetic oil 5w to 7 1/2w any oil with more viscosity will make the shocks to firm.

Why: there are good, better and best shocks. The stock shocks rate in the better to best with fresh synthetic oil installed. All shocks will need maintenance after 40,000 to 50,000 miles.

My old Voyager 1200 now has 220,000 miles on it and still has the stock air shocks mounted on the back of the Voyager. No oil leaks and still hold air for thirty days.

Play with air pressure and rebound damping. I used 50 psi and #3 rebound most of the time riding solo. When pulling a tome out trailer or doing some canyon carving 52 to 55 psi and #4 rebound.

[cushman eagle]

I agree Don, the stock shocks were much better than the progressive 416s I put on after the stocks started leaking.
The 416s are way to hard of a ride!Even with no pressure.
I had changed the oil several years before that.

[shifterkart26]

You can find a two stage on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... d&_sacat=0

[Nails]

Thx. I already bought one. Should get it next week.
I had narry a clue there was a different center stand that works. Appreciate the guidance.

[Nails]

It's my thread, so I'm okay with continuing to hijack it.

Other than Amsoil I use Honda Showa fork oil, use only synthetic oil 5w to 7 1/2w any oil with more viscosity will make the shocks to firm.

I'm sold on Dextron III in forks and shocks. Curious to see how the oil looks next time I change it, though. (I like that ATF has tons of detergents.)

One fork has a scratch, and I'm waiting for it to start leaking. I'm considering replacing the Progressives with RaceTech. I might stick with Dex-III, though.

All shocks will need maintenance after 40,000 to 50,000 miles.

My bike still has less than 30K, but the liquid substance that came out of my shocks was astonishing. I'd add a, say, 10-year lifespan, too.

Play with air pressure and rebound damping. I used 50 psi and #3 rebound most of the time riding solo. When pulling a tome out trailer or doing some canyon carving 52 to 55 psi and #4 rebound.

I haven't messed with this much. I'm running 36-38 in tires (the way they came from the shop) and about 35 in the shock, on 3. It's certainly plush; but I liked the way it hustled down from the ski area this week, and it hasn't come near to bottoming out in quite a while. I'll try 2 for around town and the superslab (not loaded). I'll also try adding some air to everything -- especially when I get to that BR Parkway! I'm on new MT66 tires.

I've trimmed some fat from my bike, but less luck with me. I'm about 180, or maybe 215 ready to ride (full mesh armor, helmet, &etc). I also ride solo, generally without too much crap in the bags.