Carb issue, 1998 model.

[triton28]

Match 1 and 2; then 3 and 4; and then left and right. It is good you checked each gauge @ 20 lbs and found them to all be equal. A lot of times people do not calibrate the gauges and sometimes they are not all the same reading, ( for a given vacuum), which gives a rough idle etc., etc..

[cranky]

... to my ears, it sounds great!!! Does look that the idle is a tad too slow....
IIRC, ain't it supposed to be 1100????? Do you have iridium plugs in it? If not
you are doing yourself a disservice.. they made my scoot idle noticeably
better.... JM2C

[tnpete]

... to my ears, it sounds great!!! Does look that the idle is a tad too slow....
IIRC, ain't it supposed to be 1100????? Do you have iridium plugs in it? If not
you are doing yourself a disservice.. they made my scoot idle noticeably
better.... JM2C

My owners manual shows 750-850 at idle. But it may be wrong.
Plugs are normal plugs, will leave them for now.

[tnpete]

My box of parts were delivered yesterday. So now I can get the driveshaft off. Take care of it, and put the new boot on that.

Also got a factory air filter. Along with the 2 white stand pieces for that filter. But how do they go in the box??
Also got an extra pin for in case I let the one on the driveshaft yoke get away.

Along with a new gas line from the filter to fuel pump.

Along with half dozen washers for the oil drain plugs.

Plus the metal piece for the speed sensor on the front axle.

I think that was all of it. The boot held the parts up for almost 2 weeks. But I did tell them to ship it all at one time. As without the boot, I would not get much done anyways.

If not for going to the Grand Ole Opry tomorrow night at the Ryman. My Nephew is opening there for Alan Jackson.
I think he has opened for Alan 5 or 6 times this year. Told him to hurry up and hit it big. Uncle Pete needs parts $$.
James Carothers if you like Country. And he sings country.
https://youtu.be/VG3U6ALZo2A

[cushman eagle]

My box of parts were delivered yesterday. So now I can get the driveshaft off. Take care of it, and put the new boot on that.

Also got a factory air filter. Along with the 2 white stand pieces for that filter. But how do they go in the box??
Also got an extra pin for in case I let the one on the driveshaft yoke get away.

Along with a new gas line from the filter to fuel pump.

Along with half dozen washers for the oil drain plugs.

Plus the metal piece for the speed sensor on the front axle.

I think that was all of it. The boot held the parts up for almost 2 weeks. But I did tell them to ship it all at one time. As without the boot, I would not get much done anyways.

If not for going to the Grand Ole Opry tomorrow night at the Ryman. My Nephew is opening there for Allen Jackson.
I think he has opened for Allen 5 or 6 times this year. Told him to hurry up and hit it big. Uncle Pete needs parts $$.
James Carothers if you like Country. And he sings country.
https://youtu.be/VG3U6ALZo2A

I keep a couple of the drive shaft retaining pins on hand,due to both times I removed it to grease the splines,I have lost one !

[ekap1200]

TRITON28 - Good advise on gauge calibration , It does matter a great deal.
GENE KAP

[triton28]

Thanks Gene. Glad to hear you are on the mend.
Dave

[tnpete]

Bike is still hard to start when cold. Run's on 2 or 3 cylinders. Then as it warms up the other kicks in. Does good when warmed up. Will start as fast as I touch the starter button. But let it sit overnight. And its like the fuel leaves the carb's. I have a catch can under the drain tube. And its dry, so gas it not running out the overflows.

Pulled the plugs today, sad for sure. They were new or I was told. Not new at all for sure. Gaped at 15MM rather then the 8 to 9 MM the book shows. So ordered new NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug (DPR8EIX-9) . Had a 25% off for Advance auto coupon in my email. So used it to get 25$ off them. They had them for $8.99 each, while everyone else around here was way higher per plug. And with the 25% off was a no brainier.

If the new plugs do not help with the starting. I guess Next I will send the other set of carbs to Fl. Get them done by the man his self. Then go from there.
Also spark plug caps what should the readings on those be?

[cranky]

.. put iridium plugs in mine and it made a noticeable difference... JM2C

[triton28]

plug caps should be 4990-5010 Ohms

[tnpete]

plug caps should be 4990-5010 Ohms

Thanks all 4 are fall right in that range.
Had to laugh to myself this am. Got the new plugs, had seen a video yesterday. Guy made the statement. He always just tossed the plugs in the engine. Never checked the gap. Because they come with the cardboard around the tips now. So there preset from the maker.
Guess I have always had bad luck. Never seen many set to what I needed out of the box.

[tnpete]

New plugs does make it run a little smoother. Still not hitting on all 4 when starting. But about 45 seconds to 1 minute in. It starts running on all 4. So guess theres still an issue with the carbs.


Now I have an issue with the fuel pump. Is there a way for the pump its self to leak fuel about the middle of the pump housing? Have a little fuel seeping out there. Have not taken it out of the holder yet.

[cranky]

... mine takes 15 sec or so to smooth out... I've got more patience than
carb skills... GBG JM2C

[triton28]

No the pump should be completely dry unless there is a rusted through section of the pump body.
Perhaps one of the hoses is leaking around it's fitting on the pump nipple/s and the gas is running to the thick part of the pump assembly where it is showing itself. Just a guess.

[tnpete]

... mine takes 15 sec or so to smooth out... I've got more patience than
carb skills... GBG JM2C

I'm the same way, but then again the older I get. The more I want stuff to do right. if mine would smooth out after 15 seconds or so. I would be happy, but its more like 45 Second to a minute.
This video is of overnight start. Also noise in this video, who can figure out what is causing it? Felt dumb after trying to figure it out.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/kiJOQtc4PHk[/youtube]
This one is after 4 hours of sitting in a 72 degree basement.
[youtube]https://youtu.be/dwoGk_-F2pE[/youtube]

[tnpete]

Almost back together. I still have to finish up the trailer wiring. Then mount the bags on the back. Then both seats and screw on both antenna's. Then Flush the coolant. Change the oil out and filter. Then Finish up the rear brake. Its the only one I don't have flushed. Waited on it until the end. AS I figured I would be removing the rear line when I done the drive shaft and swing arm.
So next warm day going to get it out and run up and down the driveway. Then go get it tagged, insurance. Then try it out. Man its been a long journey. But that's the life of buying old stuff. And knowing it needs work.

Also got the new oil in the rear shocks today. Took all of 5 minutes to fill both with fresh oil. Used a SEOH Plastic Gas Syringe 30ml with a 3" piece of aquarium air line on the syringe.

Click For Full-Size Image.
Then pulled it full of fluid. Stick the tube down into the hole. Putting pressure on the tube. Then inject the 30 ML in as fast as you can press it. Then ease it back out, allows the trapped air to release.

[tnpete]

Rolled the bike out the door today. Thinking man I'm so weak I can't even walk this bike backwards. But then thought OOOOhhh nooooo rear brake is sticking. So fired the bike up, ran like it had just been shut down. That was a good point. No choke, just hit the starter and fired up. Ran perfect so score one for me.
Then took the big ride, yes rode it the 20ft I had went backwards. got it back on the center stand. Rear tire was like trying to turn it with the brakes locked down. Got the rear Caliper off then apart. Took some good air pressure to pop the piston out. Was not that bad on the piston. Does show some marking inside the caliper. So wondering if I need to get a replacement caliper? Or chance putting a kit in this one?
I did flush the fluid out of it today. Nasty stuff and wonder if it may have been the cause of the issue? Just air trapped in it? Foot peddle did feel right. But then again It may well have had air trapped in there also.

[triton28]

I use 600 grit then 1000 grit then 1500 grit then 3000 grit wet sandpaper to clean up the piston if it shows surface corrosion from the water in the fluid rusting it. Be careful in the sanding procedure to not cause a flat area on the piston by overzealous sanding of one spot/area. The entire piston must be sanded to the same level as corroded area/s sanding. A lathe would be best for this but hand sanding does work if the corrosion is minimal. This sanding only works for light surface corrosion, it will not fix a piston that has had the corrosion etch deep into the face of the piston as the fluid can bypass the sealing ring IF the corrosion is where the piston surface rides across the sealing ring. Some deep corrosion etching in the very top area of the piston will not cause a hydraulic fluid leak as this area is where only the dust seal seats and although not an ideal situation, the piston will work and not leak hydraulic fluid. This top area corrosion etching may allow water and contaminants to enter the working area of the cylinder over time and mileage.
As long as any corrosion has NOT bypassed or eaten away any of the back surface of the inner groove machined in the caliper housing for the rubber sealing ring, the caliper can be cleaned up and reused. Small amounts of corrosion on the side/s of the groove may still be OK provided it/they do not cross the rear surface of the inner groove. Pay particular attention to the square profile of the inner groove and ensure that any corrosion is GENTLY scaled/chipped/scraped out from the sides and rear face of the profile: keep the profile as close to factory as possible. I use dental hygienist's picks, magnifier glasses for my old eyes and a small slot screwdriver. The rubber piston seal MUST seat against a continuous clean rear surface of the inner groove. Also remove any other corrosion in the cylinder bore, but that goes without saying.
The outer narrower groove for the dust seal although not as hydraulic fluid critical, must also be cleaned/scraped/chipped of any corrosion as well. It's purpose is to keep atmospheric water away from the piston and cylinder bore so the dust seal must be seating well in this outer groove to properly do it's job.
Generally if anything needs to be replaced it is usually the piston, and if the above can be achieved with a clean piston, new fluid, and new rubber seals you should be good to go.
Dave

[tnpete]

I use 600 grit then 1000 grit then 1500 grit then 3000 grit wet sandpaper to clean up the piston if it shows surface corrosion from the water in the fluid rusting it. Be careful in the sanding procedure to not cause a flat area on the piston by overzealous sanding of one spot/area. The entire piston must be sanded to the same level as corroded area/s sanding. A lathe would be best for this but hand sanding does work if the corrosion is minimal. This sanding only works for light surface corrosion, it will not fix a piston that has had the corrosion etch deep into the face of the piston as the fluid can bypass the sealing ring IF the corrosion is where the piston surface rides across the sealing ring. Some deep corrosion etching in the very top area of the piston will not cause a hydraulic fluid leak as this area is where only the dust seal seats and although not an ideal situation, the piston will work and not leak hydraulic fluid. This top area corrosion etching may allow water and contaminants to enter the working area of the cylinder over time and mileage.
As long as any corrosion has NOT bypassed or eaten away any of the back surface of the inner groove machined in the caliper housing for the rubber sealing ring, the caliper can be cleaned up and reused. Small amounts of corrosion on the side/s of the groove may still be OK provided it/they do not cross the rear surface of the inner groove. Pay particular attention to the square profile of the inner groove and ensure that any corrosion is GENTLY scaled/chipped/scraped out from the sides and rear face of the profile: keep the profile as close to factory as possible. I use dental hygienist's picks, magnifier glasses for my old eyes and a small slot screwdriver. The rubber piston seal MUST seat against a continuous clean rear surface of the inner groove. Also remove any other corrosion in the cylinder bore, but that goes without saying.
The outer narrower groove for the dust seal although not as hydraulic fluid critical, must also be cleaned/scraped/chipped of any corrosion as well. It's purpose is to keep atmospheric water away from the piston and cylinder bore so the dust seal must be seating well in this outer groove to properly do it's job.
Generally if anything needs to be replaced it is usually the piston, and if the above can be achieved with a clean piston, new fluid, and new rubber seals you should be good to go.
Dave

Thanks Dave
The piston its self look perfect. The issue is on the inside of the Caliper its self. After looking at it more today. Its all halfway down the walls even then. Up towards the top no issues anywhere near the sealing rings.
So going to order a rebuild kit. And put it back together. I could see the scoring but can't even feel it with my finger. So should be good for sure.
Again thanks for the info.
Pete

[tnpete]

Rear brake is back on. Even took it for a 4 mile ride. 40 degrees with sun shine. So cool ride.