Cruise Relay

[ekap1200]

> the control unit needs B+ to maintain its memory of pulse counts for the ( RESUME ) NO MATTER what cancel switch is opened.

Yeah, I see that pin 10 is parallel with the "on" light, so both are on together. But this doesn't have any relationship to the cancel switches or control unit Correct (other than that downstream parallel connection).

The Set light is grounded through the control unit, which breaks that ground for any kind of cancel. I mean, CC "on" doesn't have anything to do with Set "on", which is dependent on the cancel switches. (Other than Set won't turn on without CC already being on.)

So I don't quite follow what maintaining current to the CC relay has to do with any cancel switches. But since the main switch is instantaneous, without that current from the diode the CC relay would turn back off as soon as you quit pushing the switch. It has noting to do with it , it is the main cruise/c relay

[Edit: (okay, I've done about 14 edits) Yes, I see that it's necessary to keep the CC on to keep the control unit on, so it can remember the speed setting. It's also necessary to keep it on so you can Set a speed in the first place.] Correct

> The relay ( contact ) is at B+ from the N/C off button on the faux tank.

There's one misunderstanding: when I moved that cruise stuff to the fairing, I forgot that I put the "off" switch there. I didn't remember I had an "off". ( ? -----so you do have an momentary N/O on and a momentary N/C off ??? )
REMEMBER- on and off switch's are not the same.

SO WHAT WAS THE FIRST POST HERE ????????????????????????
If it ain't broke , don't fix it. "Bill o "

[Nails]

So I don't quite follow what maintaining current to the CC relay has to do with any cancel switches. But since the main switch is instantaneous, without that current from the diode the CC relay would turn back off as soon as you quit pushing the switch. It has noting to do with it , it is the main cruise/c relay

I'm talking about the CC relay coil that actuates the relay; and I think you're talking about current from the relay to the control unit.

I'm saying that the CC relay only provides that current when the relay is actuated by the relay coil. To get the current you're talking about, you have to have (and maintain) power to the BK/W wire. This initially comes from the main "on" switch. This energizes the relay coil, closing the relay (which is n/o, like all other relays on the bike). This puts B+ onto the Y/R wire, which turns on the "on" light and the control unit pin 10. But this also passes current through the diode back to the BK/W wire, to keep the relay "on".

The CC relay is n/o. It closes when the BK/W wire is B+, which happens two ways: from the main "on" switch and from the diode. (I'm sure there's a good reason why you don't want current going backwards through the diode.)

To open the CC relay (turn CC "off") you have to disrupt the current in the BR wire -- exactly what the main "off" switch does. This kills power to the CC relay (even though the relay is closed). It also kills power to the diode, which is what was keeping the relay closed (the relay coil actuated) ever since you hit the main "on" switch and fired it up in the first place.

Little wonder Dave thought this circuit looked funny. I didn't even get that far, the first time I waded into it. And it's giving me a headache now.

Dave's original point was to figure out what this odd circuit was actually doing and whether this particular relay is different from the rest -- I don't think it is. (We haven't even started breaking things. But maybe Dave will when he tests some relays.)

I also think Dave is a little weird for looking at difficult schematics at 4:30 in the morning. But I guess we've all known that about him and electrical stuff. That's why many of us wait for him to reply to electrical questions, especially. And I still think he has a wizz-bang app.

[ekap1200]

Neal,,, we have to end this post... for several reasons....Dave understands it is a N/O self-latching relay.

[triton28]

OK this is really the last post on this subject!
While waiting for my 4 hour radiator cleansing I rigged up a battery and test leads and tested 3 relays in a 3 pack and they were all NO. Then I tested 3 individual rubber encased relays and they were also NO. They all showed continuity when energized and zero ohms when not energized.
So that's it, for some reason the authors of the schematic depicted the CC relay differently from the others on the schematic but it is in fact the same relay. The same authors then show the non CC relays, references from ekap on 15-16 and 15-17, as having the same graphic illustration as the CC relay with the energizing coil shown. I guess they were cramped for space on the schematic but more than likely it as Van Voyager said: to alert one to look for a closed condition.
Again, thanks to all who replied,
Dave

[ekap1200]

Dave your not the only one , and here is why this happens. After I finished my 2nd year of night school, I was lucky enough to obtain a JOLLY ROGER copy of an electronics program called TANGO. When designing schematic's you would pick and place your individual parts to form standard and complex relays ie. field coils/contacts /aux-contact and so on. It was up to the draftsman to rotate/mirror/and place them wherever you like. Then you could save them to the parts library and call them out when you needed them. So whenever you look at a view of a component it may look different than what it really is. Could be just a lack of time to edit the part on the draftsman's part....
Hope this helps out a number of people with looking at schematic drawings .
Gene