Starts Normally, May or May Not have Lights

[GrandpaDenny]

How in the world to work on that deep in the belly of the beast? No easy endeavor.

It's actually quite easy to strip the fairing off. There's a video of how to do it in the Tech section, IIRC. Doesn't take that long at all. Sounds much more intimidating than it is!

[DocSnowFox]

Yeah, I have it off now. Like 10th time in past 2 years.
That Terrible Ten Pin is still deep in the wires in there.

[DocSnowFox]

"Aha! " moment realizing is SO difficult to get at the Terrible Ten Pin because of the CB controller/dash display and related cables... that i just HAD to add onto my Voyager.
Easy to see [pic] but can't reach backside to release and uncouple.

[Nails]

that i just HAD to add onto my Voyager.

To each his own ... but I just HAD to get rid of all that superfluous crap. (Even setting the cruise control can distract me -- but it's sure a net plus after then.)

[DocSnowFox]

More info, (while I'm trying to get "Terrible Ten Pin" connector apart without breaking any plastic, tabs, etc.
Per the just posted picture, the lower side (sorry can't tell yet if it's upstream or downstream ... from... the fuse box)...Red/Bl has power with and without engine running, also Br/W, Bl and Wh/Bl.

On the Headlight Relay (new attachment) ONLY the Red/Bl by my thumb, lower left wire, has power with bike running. None powered otherwise, and none powered with bike not running.

[DocSnowFox]

This is my bike altogether, running (2 weeks ago) still ignoring the lights on, then next start all lights off issue.
I grew tired of not being able to just start it up and drive, and be legal.

[DocSnowFox]

This of at night with Aveda blue LEDs

[DocSnowFox]

This *is at night with Accessory "Parking" blue LEDs

[triton28]

Bench test a relay you replaced and if it checks out as good, substitute it for the present installed headlight relay. If still no lights after starting the bike, shut off the bike and then verify the Yellow wire does in fact send momentary 12V to the diode when the starter button is operated for a restart. If you have a checked out relay and the Y wire is supplying momentary 12 V power to the diode assembly when the starter button is operated, and you still have no lights then I suspect one or two of the diodes has/have gone south.
Test for the diode: the Yellow/Blue wire at the headlight relay plug, which is the Yellow wire after the diode, should show 12 V while the starter button is operated and then 0 V when the button is not being operated. If Y/Bl wire test works as described then diode and the momentary 12 V Yellow wire connection from the starter cable to the diode assembly is good. If no power as described in test then there is a problem in the circuit which starts as the Y wire coming from the starter cable and ending as a Y/Bl wire at the relay. Verify both the Y and Y/Bl wires have uninterrupted continuity. If both wires check as good then that leaves 1of the diodes in the the diode assembly the only unknown provided the starter button operation is in fact supplying 12 V to the Y wire.
If the Y, Y/Bl wires and the diode of the momentary 12 V circuit test as good, then the loop R/Bl circuit to the diode and back to the relay through a connection to the Y/Bl wire would seem suspect to me. The diode assembly needs bench testing and the R/Bl wiring between the fuse block and the relay sounds as though you have verified it is in fact supplying 12 V to the relay so the other R/Bl needs to be switched by the relay in order to power the lights and self feed the coil circuit of the relay in order to maintain the closed switch circuit of the relay.
I can not stress the importance of bench testing components as if they check good, wiring and/or connectors are the only other item left. I hope this doesn't confuse all too much and I may be incorrect in some of my assertions but others may chime in and offer simpler solutions.

[DocSnowFox]

triton28,
Thanks.
No confusion for me. I get it all. I wish i had a schematic I could read other than the poor resolution online 1987 version I have.
Some day hope to find a clean, high res (maybe even color) print or file i could enlarge and reprint, and share.

I'll start on this tonight after work.

Are you still a proponent of deleting the "Terrible Ten Pin" connector and soldering instead? I've read the old posts throughly on that and saw many in this Post, agreeing with that step, including you.

THANK YOU!
More, next time...

[triton28]

try this from the facebook Kawasaki Voyager XII group. I think thanks are due Mr. Pete Franchi for loading this colour version of a wiring schematic into the files section of that group.

https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/Supple ... DwkRz7BTRw

Nope, it doesn't work but you can access it from the "Kawasaki Voyager XII" facebook group.

[triton28]

With respect to the terrible ten I prefer to rehabilitate any rotted male or female pins with new pins and reinsert them back into the connector. But that's only because I am a stickler for the way things are built. Sometimes though the plastic melts from arcing and is no longer usable or too much of the wire has been corroded away so in those circumstances I would probably hard wire and bypass the connector but only as a last resort. To each their own.

[DocSnowFox]

1. I'm not a FB Member of this Kawasaki Voyager xii Group yet. Waiting for an Admin to approve, I suppose, so i can get at the linked page.
If this document can be saved externally and printed, I will do that.
2. I'm having a struggle to get at the Terrible Ten Pin safely enough to not break it, trying to get the side tabs to release and open. Last thing I want to do is break off a tab, then it will never be tight or secure, without boggus zip ties to the rescue.
3. I seriously want to get this diagnosed and fixed before losing yet another weekend. Darned work keeps interrupting my allowable time to track down on this SO elusive electrical ghost/ demon.

[triton28]

not sure if this would work but how about using a zip tie to hold the 2 sides that must be held in tight to the body. This should, if it works, free up a hand to do the pulling apart of the 2 halves. Just a thought.

[ekap1200]

triton28,
Thanks.
Are you still a proponent of deleting the "Terrible Ten Pin" connector and soldering instead? I've read the old posts throughly on that and saw many in this Post, agreeing with that step, including you.

It depends what condition it is in. Visually look at the condition, Most issues with connectors can be cured , simply by unplugging and plugging the connector several time to scrape away any mild corrosion that is causing the resistance issue. However there comes a point in time that the corrosion has become to the point of no return that it requires cutting it out for repair. The high resistance can cause HEAT , which will show up as burnt areas of the plastic, if you see that , well cut it out.
Gene Kap

[Nails]

I understand that connector also has an issue with tension (pulling) on the wires. Mine seems fine, no matter which way I turn the handlebars.

I'm a fan of solder-less (crimp) connectors, as opposed to cold-solder failures (happens in the best of households).

But I haven't needed to do anything with this connector; and I'm disinclined to fix what ain't broke.

[DocSnowFox]

Thank you Pete and triton28,
I'm able to get into the FB Voyager Group (accepted) today. I've found the color wiring schematic with terrific resolution.
I'll be spending time on that this weekend.

[DocSnowFox]

Oppressive extreme heat this weekend outside (upper 90's, feels like>100° F). Once I get yard mowing and trimming done, I'll get back to the Voyager discussion steps and ideas and the new Color-coded schematic steps.
Expecting good results today!
Thanks all.

[DocSnowFox]

I have set up a bench test, and ALL THREE OLD relays, and ALL THREE NEW relays that I put (replaced) into the Main, Ignition and Headlight Relay connectors/ circuits, test out to be working properly.

So these were not the source of the issue nor necessary to replace. But no harm done. With the odometer at only 26, 395 miles I would not have expected one of these to be defective already. Though the bike is 25 years old. And, part of the first owner history is it was last used in a bank robbery as the get away vehicle, that was blocked by a squad car and went down on one side with relatively minor damages. Owner reportedly will never ride again in daylight.
Anyway apparently was always stored indoors (like the 1st owner).

So this "no lights" issue must be a matter of minute yet critical corrosion somewhere, or a blown old component.
Testing diodes next.
Continuing down triton28's discussion path...AND enjoying the color printed wiring schematic selection I made from Pete Franchi's upload to the FB VOYAGER group. Thank you Pete.
Back to it...

[Nails]

Is there a way to share the, er, wizz-bang schematic? I don't do Facebook.