1995 Revival

[2wrems]

Hey guys. My first post. I bought a voyager not long ago. It's a 1995 with 30,200 miles. The previous owner was a really shitty person, lied to me about the bike and how long its been sitting. So I started down this road of getting this thing going again. Ive been into bikes for a long time and im really good with fixing things. I was told the bike had no power when you turn the key and it was ridden last year and just sat since the spring of 2020. Well that was a lie.
This thing has been sitting yearssss. I might need some help with things from bike specific knowledgeable people. I would upload pics but im not sure how to on this forum.
I found the power issue. It was the main wire coming from the fuse box into the main wire harness. Repaired that. There has been a handful of other electrical issues i found and fixed. The oil looked like a chocolate milkshake when i drained it. Hope that flushes out and its ok. Both master cylinders don't have any resistance in them when brakes applied. Tires are bald. Had the original spark plugs in it, that were all rusty. I wasn't sure i was going to get them out. I have drained the coolant, final drive oil, brake fluid... I will be changing all the fluids. A lot of fasteners missing/ messed up. I have the rear sub frame off with the gas tank removed. Took the air box out, air box catch can, coolant overflow bottle. Took the carbs off cleaned them out installed a new rebuild kit and reassembled and reinstalled. I got it fired up, but a few of the cylinders weren't firing. Once the new spark plugs arrive I can rule out the spark issue. Fuel getting into the cylinder might be the problem. All the carb bowls had gas in them. I know this seems a bit all over the place, but that's how this bike has been so far. I didn't pay much for the bike and was looking for a winter project so it should keep me busy. Once i figure out the picture issue i have a lot of photos i can post. Like i said, i may need a word of advice here and there.

[Nails]

Welcome. Here, I've found all the information I've needed to date. I recommend searching here even for stuff you already figured out because there's tons of stuff like what else you should check while you're in there.

I don't think you can post photos until you join. Recommended, to download the manuals if nothing else.

Lots of folks here have resurrected junk. The odds are in your favor.

[ekap1200]

Hello 2wrems ,and welcome to the AVA , I am picking up a 1991 in the morning. Has only 50K and change on it. But I only needed the exhaust, left mirror and choke cable. I have two parts bikes here and that's all that is needed to finish the parts list . Keep in touch here for GOOD info. These guys have years and years of knowledge.
Gene Kap.

[2wrems]

I got both brake master cylinders, brake lines, and the calipers coming today from ebay. I had a big surprise when i opened the front master cylinder, it looked like snot. wasn't even liquid. I'm hopeful that I won't need much more than that. I know many trips to the hardware store to replace fasteners are in order. Who ever had this bike didn't know how to remove bolts correctly. I have already replaced a bunch.

[Nails]

I had a big surprise when i opened the front master cylinder, it looked like snot.

Just wait until you see what's in the shocks.

Yeppers, changing fluids is a really good idea.

[2wrems]

I had a big surprise when i opened the front master cylinder, it looked like snot.

Just wait until you see what's in the shocks.

Yeppers, changing fluids is a really good idea.

I'm attaching a picture of what the front master cylinder looked like. I have never seen this before. Crazy.

The new spark plugs and rear brake parts showed up last night. I got the brakes on and bled. 3 out of 4 plugs in. I'll also attach a picture of what the old plugs looked like.

[triton28]

Welcome to the world of Voyager XIIs.
I see your post is titled "1995 Revival" and perhaps the bike you bought is in fact a 1995 year of manufacture, but it is wearing 1986 coloured plastic and it doesn't have the lower cowling, air scoop I call it, which the 87 and later models have.
Also I see the downturn muffler tips which I know were 1987 and later style. I thought the 1986 mufflers were all straight single round tipped similar to the 1300 six cylinder mufflers. I have seen one other 1986 with the straight tips and that owner is a chap just down the road in the next community and when I spoke with him he said the downturn tips were the original mufflers for his bike so perhaps some of the later serial numbered 1986 units got the updated style of muffler tips.
If it doesn't have provision in the main harness for cruise control and the associated cancel switches/throttle cable/actuator, or the rear speaker fader and speakers/rack, then the electrical wiring is 1986 as well.
Another item to look for is the front wheel valve stem as the valve stem from a 1990 onward is a typical automotive style pull through rubber stem seal whereas the B-3 and earlier models were the double locknut on rubber washer style of stem seals.
One can also compare the frame number against the Model Application list printed on the outside rear cover of the MSM Supplement. For example the last 8 alpha numeric frame #s beginning with HA or HB are 1987; JA or JB are 1988 etc etc with 1995 being NB and then the six digit serial number following the NB
As Nails posted changing all the fluids and cleaning the reservoirs for same is a must do whenever one is rehabilitating a neglected unit and you have already discovered the goo which can arise from neglect.
By the sounds of it you seem to be on the right track with your approach and there are many here who can answer your questions should any arise. We all appreciate pictures.
Good luck, continue on and you will appreciate the quality of this model when all is returned to proper operational standards.
Regards,
Dave

[2wrems]

Welcome to the world of Voyager XIIs.
I see your post is titled "1995 Revival" and perhaps the bike you bought is in fact a 1995 year of manufacture, but it is wearing 1986 coloured plastic and it doesn't have the lower cowling, air scoop I call it, which the 87 and later models have.
Also I see the downturn muffler tips which I know were 1987 and later style. I thought the 1986 mufflers were all straight single round tipped similar to the 1300 six cylinder mufflers. I have seen one other 1986 with the straight tips and that owner is a chap just down the road in the next community and when I spoke with him he said the downturn tips were the original mufflers for his bike so perhaps some of the later serial numbered 1986 units got the updated style of muffler tips.
If it doesn't have provision in the main harness for cruise control and the associated cancel switches/throttle cable/actuator, or the rear speaker fader and speakers/rack, then the electrical wiring is 1986 as well.
Another item to look for is the front wheel valve stem as the valve stem from a 1990 onward is a typical automotive style pull through rubber stem seal whereas the B-3 and earlier models were the double locknut on rubber washer style of stem seals.
One can also compare the frame number against the Model Application list printed on the outside rear cover of the MSM Supplement. For example the last 8 alpha numeric frame #s beginning with HA or HB are 1987; JA or JB are 1988 etc etc with 1995 being NB and then the six digit serial number following the NB
As Nails posted changing all the fluids and cleaning the reservoirs for same is a must do whenever one is rehabilitating a neglected unit and you have already discovered the goo which can arise from neglect.
By the sounds of it you seem to be on the right track with your approach and there are many here who can answer your questions should any arise. We all appreciate pictures.
Good luck, continue on and you will appreciate the quality of this model when all is returned to proper operational standards.
Regards,
Dave

The VIN on the frame is JKAZG9B1XSB507339. If there is any other information you can give me I'd greatly appreciate it. There is a interesting story behind this bike that maybe I will share once there is an outcome.
It has the rear speaker fade control. It has the cruise control buttons on the right side of the handlebars and the module under the right fairing. Pretty sure it also has the cruise control unit right on top of the motor. No cruise control on top of the fake gas tank cover. The front wheel valve stem has a double nut. When I run the VIN on faxvin.com it says its a 1995.

[2wrems]

Ill just post some of my in progress pics.

[GrandpaDenny]

I know many trips to the hardware store to replace fasteners are in order. Who ever had this bike didn't know how to remove bolts correctly. I have already replaced a bunch.

I think I read you've already taken the rear subframe off, so you won't get surprised by missing frame bolts there, at least. Like you, I also bought my bike cheaply and it's been an adventure discovering DSPO stuff - like missing subframe bolts, or even worse incorrect subframe bolts that later fell out. Ah, the joys of old bike ownership! But, let me tell you, it has been such a pleasure steadily improving the bike and riding her the whole time. Gertrude (the bike) and I go everywhere together. Matter of fact, it's just above freezing here, and I'm off for a ride. Welcome to the group!

[Nails]

I just noticed that your first plug photo shows a cracked ceramic. Don't know how common this is, but I also had that. Even after replacing everything, it still had an odd miss at low RPM on that cylinder. Swapped wires and coils, chased carb adjustments, nothing fixed it. What finally worked was filling the cylinder with SeaFoam and letting that drain into the crankcase.

I think these motors are prone to stuck rings. Given how crappy yours looks, I want to suggest doing this on all four cylinders, as a prophylactic if nothing else. I'd let the straight SeaFoam work on the crankcase, too. Then I'd put cheap sacrificial oil in for the first few miles.

You might even consider dropping the oil pan and cleaning it right. I bet the gasket leaks anyway. I also replaced the dozen or so o-rings in there.

[SgtSlag]

Seafoam works fast, in the crankcase. I put mine on the centerstand, idled for five minutes, shifting through all gears, waiting for the oil to reach 180 F, so it would suspend the crud so it reached the filter. On my Honda, the oil went from caramel, to black! I changed it, and the filter, immediately. Repeated the process 3,000 hard miles later, but even after 300 miles, the oil never darkened. The sludge was all gone from the first treatment.

Modern oils (API SJ and newer) are so high in detergents, you will not need to treat the crankcase with SeaFoam again. I treated my Voyager crankcase, once. I use it in the fuel tank, once a month in the Summer, then when I mothball it. SeaFoam is a great product. Cheers!

[2wrems]

I have used sea foam in trucks/cars. There is no worry about it in a motorcycle because of the clutch plates? How much are you guys adding to the oil for a crankcase oil flush? I know they make crankcase oil flush. Maybe I will fill the cylinders up with it too. How long does it take to drain down? Like you said just as preventative measures. It only has 30K on it, so I would hope things wouldn't be too bad.

I'm thinking I'm going to do a radiator flush. What's the proper way to get all the flush out? The drain bolt under the motor in the coolant pipe?

Now that I got all the electrical problems taken care of I can start putting the front fairings back together. It should be interesting, I'm missing a ton a fasteners. Its going to be a fun puzzle, it wasn't together correctly when I bought it. I still have to put the oil in the back shocks, and reinstall the gas tank/subframe. Any pointers for getting the oil back in the shocks? It was a huge pain to get the oil out of the left shock.

[2wrems]

Its like everything i look at is just ridiculously bad. How does a clutch master cylinder get like this? Anyway i got it cleaned out and flushed. Ill just plan on flushing it after i use the bike for a little while, and then again later until its clean. I drained the oil only idling for about an hour. I wanted to see what it looked like. Looks good, got some of the contaminates out. Ill post pics of the oil i drained out when i got the bike. I'm pretty sure the bike sat partially disassembled outside. I think rain got in the airbox then went down into the lower airbox and right into the crankcase vent. The air box drain catch can was completely full of water. So this first little bit was to flush out any of what was left. The oil i just put in will be in there a little bit more. Now the bike fires right up, idles well, cooling fan comes on. I will do a radiator flush next.

[triton28]

Yes indeed your frame # falls within the 1995 range of serial numbers. It is interesting to see 1986 plastics on a 1995 bike. The PO must have wanted a colour change or needed a different set of plastics. It would be interesting to hear the story about that.
The front wheel is definitely 1990 or earlier. Too bad the PO did not incorporate the cruise switch onto the 1986 false tank.
The spark plug wells have a drain passage which probably is plugged looking at the plugs. This passage goes down on an angle to the little jogs on the cylinder head/cylinder joint directly behind the carbs. It can be cleaned, when the plugs are installed, using a piece of copper/metal wire inserted at an angle from the bottom up. Once the wire runs freely you can air blast the residue out of the plug well.
Judging by your posts and the photos I would have to say you are well on your way to recovering this neglected bike.
When you wish to drain the coolant it is as you surmised: the bolt on the coolant pipe.
When you are remounting the plastics don't neglect the little nylon washers, part # 92022-1521 of which there are 21 of. They prevent the plastics from splitting in service, sort of a crush washer if you will.
I'm sure you have already discovered the on-line part supplier illustrations are a great source for the exploded view of assemblies: partshark.com, bikebandit, denniskirk and partzilla are a few.
Keep it up and thanks for the pics.
Dave

[2wrems]

Can someone clarify the rear shock oil fill procedure? The manual says to put 230ml in then drain out 160ml? That sounds weird, why don't I just put in 70ml? I got all the oil drained out, now I'm trying to figure out the other half of the procedure.

[2wrems]

Yes indeed your frame # falls within the 1995 range of serial numbers. It is interesting to see 1986 plastics on a 1995 bike. The PO must have wanted a colour change or needed a different set of plastics. It would be interesting to hear the story about that.
The front wheel is definitely 1990 or earlier. Too bad the PO did not incorporate the cruise switch onto the 1986 false tank.
The spark plug wells have a drain passage which probably is plugged looking at the plugs. This passage goes down on an angle to the little jogs on the cylinder head/cylinder joint directly behind the carbs. It can be cleaned, when the plugs are installed, using a piece of copper/metal wire inserted at an angle from the bottom up. Once the wire runs freely you can air blast the residue out of the plug well.
Judging by your posts and the photos I would have to say you are well on your way to recovering this neglected bike.
When you wish to drain the coolant it is as you surmised: the bolt on the coolant pipe.
When you are remounting the plastics don't neglect the little nylon washers, part # 92022-1521 of which there are 21 of. They prevent the plastics from splitting in service, sort of a crush washer if you will.
I'm sure you have already discovered the on-line part supplier illustrations are a great source for the exploded view of assemblies: partshark.com, bikebandit, denniskirk and partzilla are a few.
Keep it up and thanks for the pics.
Dave

I might pick up one of those cruise switches for the fake tank off eBay. They aren't much. I do wish my bike had the rear rack/ speakers.
I wish i would have known about those spark plug well drains while the carbs were off. That would have been much easier to clean them out. Im sure i can still get them clear though. I do have a large order placed for many misc. pieces that i am missing from ronayers.com OEM part supplier.

[Nails]

I filled the shocks using a 30ml hypodermic syringe. It isn't much oil, so didn't take as long as I feared. I don't remember the volume stuff you speak of ... maybe I didn't read the instructions carefully. I want to replace that oil again this winter because I'm sure I didn't get all the astonishingly vile semi-fluid substance out last time. I'm sold on using Dextron in both shocks and forks, in large part because of all the detergents. (Several old posts about that.) I feel no need to change the oil weight -- but might feel different if I were carting a "heavy set" pillion.

I moved my cruise switches/lights off the fake tank so I could put a map pocket there. One push switch is normally open and the other normally closed. I also dumped the radio crap, along with the second story of switches on the left set. A tape/radio selector switch remained on the first story. I repurposed this to the cruise "on" switch. "Off" and the two lights are on my left fairing. I recommend this over fussing with the fake tank. I have a post here somewhere about it. (On this topic, I'm about to deep-six the CC cancel switch on the carbs -- interesting in theory, but I don't think it actually confers any real safety. It's an unnecessary complication I just don't need. I'll hook this wiring to another push switch on the fairing as a cancel switch. I got some irrational problem with just blipping the brake to cancel.)

My coolant system was so bad that I had to flush it twice. Then a "flush" of regular coolant that I replaced soon.

Seafoam works great, but not magically. I ended up with tons of it in the crankcase (via the rings), but I didn't run it long that way. I did a proper Seafoam flush again later. After all that, I dropped the oil pan to replace a leaking gasket; and I still found crud in the pan crannies, apparently undergoing a lithification process. Since you're already there, I recommend replacing the old pan gasket as well as all those o-rings in there. You can get the pan off by loosening the headers and stuff. You'll need to wait for parts (those o-rings -- two different sizes). Has your pan bashed into the ground like most of ours?

I consider those deep sparkplug wells and the funky drain thing Dave mentioned to be design flaws. It's hard to keep sandy crud out of the cylinders. It's hard just to get in there to periodically rinse things out.

[SgtSlag]

The SeaFoam crankcase flush will not affect the clutch, based on my experiences doing it on three bikes: 1979 Honda 750, 1983 Kawasaki 440, and my 1993 Voyager XII. None suffered any issues with the clutch performance after the SeaFoam crankcase flush, and all three share oil between the engine, and the transmission.

For the SeaFoam crankcase flush, follow the directions on the can: I believe it is 1-1/2 oz. per quart of oil. I put my bikes on the center stand, idled them, shifting through all gears, letting the rear wheel spin freely. I ran them for five minutes, which is long enough to let the oil reach 180 F, which is the minimum temperature at which they will suspend crud, to be caught by the filter. The oil will change from caramel color, to black, if the engine/transmission has carbon deposits in it: the Honda (API SF/SG -- it changed to SG around 1979/80), and the 440 (API SH?), did, while the Voyager (API SJ?) never darkened noticeably. I installed an oil cooler in the Honda, along with an Oil Temperature Gauge: Honda engineers ran that air-cooled engine at 250 F, which is the thermal breakdown temperature of API SG oils (the oil cooler dropped it to 210 F, two up, heavy load, highway speeds, and 90 F air temperature!). It had plenty of carbon deposits from its early life. The 440's early oils were not much higher in breakdown temperatures. The API SJ+ oils have a much higher thermal breakdown temperature (300+ F). More modern oils also have much higher detergent levels. One SeaFoam crankcase flush should be all that the bike will need, as long as you run modern API oils through it (SL+).

On my Honda, the OEM coils were weak. I installed NGK Iridium plugs, at $10 each, instead of modern upgrade coils ($250+). The bike started MUCH easier. I installed Iridium plugs in my Voyager just so I could have piece of mind: they rarely will fail to fire, so I get better mileage, and fewer emissions; they also make the ignition system stronger, more bullet-proof, so I have more piece of mind riding a 27 year old bike. Besides that, they will last 100,000 miles in a car, so I expect that I will die, before they do. Cheers!

[2wrems]

I'm thinking i want to use a gas tank liner. Does anyone have one they recommend?

I used the coolant system flush last night. It got a little bit of stuff out, but i have ran water in it 3 times before i put the flush in. So i knew it was already cleanish. Tires were on sale so i ordered a set of Pirelli MT66 Route 66 tires. Next thing i have to deal with is the gas tank. before i put it back on the bike.