Cooling system questions - '90 Voyager XII

[Eydugstr]

Hello everyone, working on a '90 XII with about 64k miles. It's developed a habit of leaking antifreeze at random, with little or no telltale sign where it's coming from. Have seen a dribble of antifreeze hit the #3 cyl exhaust pipe but can't tell from where it's coming from above the pipe. While I've gathered up a lot of the O-rings & hoses, would like to narrow it down further before I start taking things apart. The bike doesn't smoke, and will only put out moisture at the tailpipe when it hasn't been ran in awhile.

The manual says to use a pressure tester, using no more than 15 psi. Is this going to be enough to show a leak at an O-ring joint or hose? Does it require a special tester, or will an automotive style one work okay?

[cushman eagle]

You may find,as I did on my'99,that it is leaking from the water manifold o-rings,
that goes across the 4 cylinders below the exhaust ports.
A radiator removal is involved,which makes an excellent time to clean it

[triton28]

Yes an automotive rad cap pressure tester will work and a spray bottle with soapy water sprayed around ALL of the fittings will show any leaks.

[Eydugstr]

Thanks guys. Haven't tried the soap & water yet, but will. Did get a pressure tester, and low and behold it tested out fine according to the manual, no leaks anywhere. Have looked all around the coolant log but not one sign of a leak found. Will try the soap and water trick, but if I can't find it will go ahead and start replacing the O-rings and whatever hoses I can get. The only two things I have found so far that look wonky, the bypass hose coming from the thermostat housing looks like it's almost pinched at the holder by the radiator fan, and a small pinhole leak on the hose that connects the radiator to the pipe that runs over to the water pump (neither of which is by the exhaust pipe where I found the evidence of the leak - ?!?). Thanks again.

[Eydugstr]

Well, here's where I'm at. Finally managed to narrow it down to the coolant log pipe connection on the far right hand side. Right now have the radiator off, and at some point will clean it with a steam cleaner. Have some more questions, though. The bypass hose is definitely kinked. Have you guys ran into this, and if so, what was your cure?

Why this is photo getting posted upside down have no idea...

It also looks like there's an oil line that will need to be removed to be able to take the coolant log off. If you are just changing the coolant log o-rings, do you guys normally just block the oil line fittings off with regular bolts, or do you drain the oil altogether? It might be a moot point in this case (might also be replacing the water pump seal as well, so I'm assuming I'd have to drain the oil if the water pump needs removed). Thanks again, everyone.

[triton28]

If your bypass hose is still good you may be able to use one of these: https://www.mcmaster.com/hose-springs/ but if your hose is shot you could get a Dayco 80395 hose and cut it to fit. But generally the bracket on the radiator fan keeps the hose in place.
Sorry but I can't help on the photo orientation, LOL.
I use a short length of clear plastic tubing, just slightly longer than the fitting is thick, slipped over the banjo bolts once they are removed. Then I screw the banjo bolt/tubing combination back in the head/crankcase to stop oil loss.
Don't forget to use new crush washers.
Can't comment on the water pump seal job as I have only done that when the crankcase was empty.
Dave

[Eydugstr]

TY for the link Triton. Am going to try to route the new hose so it doesn't kink, but if worst comes to worst will go that route.

My next question relates to the water pump. This bike has always had gunk buildup on the left side of the motor. Couldn't visually ID where the leak was coming from, removed the water pump thinking that the seal went out, expecting to see it backed out or worse from the impeller shaft. The seal looks fine, but is there any other test I can do to make sure the water pump seal/weep hole is still functioning ok?

[triton28]

As to where that oil weep is coming from well there are really only 3 possibilities: the alternator o-ring, above the water pump assembly, is leaking or 2) the water pump seal although appearing to be OK may be on it's way out or 3) the water pump o-ring is bad.
You can go with just the water pump o-ring and try that first but being me I would opt for both the o-ring and the oil seal for the pump and save possibly having to redo it if I was wrong.
The oil seal part number can not be found on any of the Voyager XII part illustrations but the number for it is: 92049-1416. I know you say it looks OK buttttt...
In so far as the water pump o-ring goes it changed from a pre 1992 part # 92055-1266 having a dimension of 33.8 mm I.D. and a wall thickness of 2.6mm to part # 92055-1424 having an I.D. of 33.2 mm and a wall thickness of 2.4 mm, from the 1992 model year onward to the end of production.
So what does that all mean one asks? Well for myself I prefer to use the pre 1992 o-rings as I find them that little bit tighter in sealing properties having the thicker wall dimension.
The alternator o-ring is a bit of a long shot unless someone has removed and replaced the alternator and reused/nicked the original o-ring.
As a side note, use a non petroleum grease such as Silicone based brake grease on the o-rings and they will slide right in to the castings. Petroleum based grease degrades rubber items over time.

[cushman eagle]

Eydugstr,if you do change the waterpump seal,I recommend using blue locktite to keep it in place.I had the seal on my'99 move and start leaking.
Keep us posted on your progress

[Eydugstr]

TY for the comments guys, It helps. Did use the 92055-1266 O-ring for the water pump install; If it's any help learned a trick of turning the water pump blade with the tip of my finger through the piping hole as I pushed the pump in, to get it to line up with the shaft coming off the end of the oil pump. Pump seated in no problems at all. TY for the tip about using threadlocker on the seal edge. Seal went in no problems, learned that a 13/16 spark plug socket worked like a charm as a tool to push it in by hand.

Didn't have any silicone disc brake grease on hand, but did have some silicone dielectric grease, so used a very small amount on the new o-rings for the water pump and coolant log, no issues getting either one in. Couldn't find any cracks in the old o-rings on the coolant log, but the ones at the right side end (where I traced the leak to) were really flattened out.

Right now I'm in the process of replacing the hoses. The kinked by-pass looks okay outside of the kink, has anyone ever ran a spring through the center of one to keep it from kinking? Have gotten every hose scrounged up except for the 39062-1149 (?!? Did Ma Kaw figure out a use for all the others on bikes they're still making except for that one ?!?) I've read where people have spliced some aftermarket silicone hoses with a copper 45 degree fitting, how did that work out? Mine is in good shape, fortunately, but was able to get replacements for all the others.

Also have the thermostat housing off, while I am still waiting on the thermostat to come in, is there any trick to getting the hose "splitter" (part #32033-1990) off from the thermostat housing to replace the o-ring? The retaining bolt is loose but even with it off it won't budge.

[triton28]

Yeah that splitter o-ring does get corroded in place rather heavily. Use a penetrating fluid around the fitting and let it sit awhile. Then you can carefully, a little at a time alternating from side to side, use a wedge to get it started. It will come out even though it seems as though it doesn't want to.
Sometimes I gently clamp the splitter in a vise and turn the body to get it started.
Never tried a spring inside a hose so I can't comment on that.

[Eydugstr]

TY for all the responses. Was able to get it all back together and running leak free, no oil coming from the backside of the pump and no leaks from the hoses or coolant log. Was able to replace all the hoses except for the 39062-1149, fortunately the one on the bike was still in good shape. Took about a month for Ma Kaw to get the thermostat to me.

It took a LOT to get the hose "splitter" apart. Let wd-40 set in the junction for about four or five days, and it still wouldn't budge. Wound up propping it in a vise inbetween two wooden boards, the tapping it from side to side with a rubber mallet to get it to come apart.

Thanks again.