Yet another Cruise Control question

[Tim in NC]

Still trying to get my cruise control to work.
Question:
If I get a "SET" light on the switch box (on the faux tank), when I push the SET switch on the handlebar, does that mean that the control unit is getting all the right signals from the lockout switches?

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Not necessarily Tim.
Make sure you are in 5th gear otherwise the cruise won't set.
Others will be providing more info, sorry that's all I can offer at this time.

[ghostler]

Still trying to get my cruise control to work. Question: If I get a "SET" light on the switch box (on the faux tank), when I push the SET switch on the handlebar, does that mean that the control unit is getting all the right signals from the lockout switches?

What kind of problems are you having with the cruise? When you are in 5th gear and cruise has been turned on, pushing the handlebar switch forward should lock in your current speed and turn the set light on. What will prevent it from locking into set is brake switch on, overdrive (5th gear) not on, clutch on, etc. I had a bad rear brake switch, when replaced corrected my problem. Also got an issue with the transmission overdrive switch, when that happens shifting back and forth from 5th into 4th back to 5th clears that.

Another problem I had was after set, the bike would slow down 10, 15 mph before starting to accelerate back to set speed. Problem was the cruise servo linkage right inside of fairing was never adjusted by anyone, adjustment was backed all the way down. After adjusting up about 1/2" until got the right amount of play, now it locks on just like a car cruise control.

[Tim in NC]

I've gone thru all the lockout switches, and the OD switch. I may have an issue with the distance sensor, because I don't have auto cancel on the turn signals, or volume change on the radio. But that may be the AV/AC module that the distance sensor "talks" to.
When I'm at speed in 5th gear, with the CC turned on, I push the "SET" switch on the handlebar. I get a green "SET" light, but CC doesn't kick in. But I'm thinking that since I'm getting a "SET" light, that the control unit is satisfied that all required parameters have been met. If the "brain" works, then I'm thinking it may be in the servo.
Tim

[ghostler]

Tim, I think you may have just stumbled onto a hint to solve your problem. When my speedometer cable broke, I lost auto turn signal cancel and auto radio volume increase at speed. If your speedometer works, then a good place to check may be somewhere in the distance/speed sensor circuit, as you mention.

Some have said to contact Carl Leo. I gather he owns a motorcycle salvage yard and is a Voyager XII guru with considerable experience, might be someone to seek out and may save you some money in the long run, too.

[SgtSlag]

Tim, here is the link to the CC cable adjustment video on YouTube. Cheers!

[chevyman1]

If the set light comes on all the switches should be satisfied, your problem could be the control box or the servo itself.
I have servos if you need one.
Just a thought, maybe your throttle cable is bad where the two cables meet under the upper air box.
I am not sure how that works on the inside.

[krasmu]

I know I need to adjust the cruise cable and should have done so this past winter while I had the fairing off. It locks on fine after cleaning all the switches. Yes, it does lose about 5 mph before it grabs, which is the telltale sign of needing the cable adjusted. The issue I'm having is it wanting to kick off when I hit a good bump in the road. It will set right back on with the touch of the set button. Could the cable slack be causing this problem

[ghostler]

I'd suspect an electrical connection of some kind. May have a switch that the jarring causes to conduct or break conduction, like the overdrive (5th gear) switch or electrical connector (not exactly that, but you may catch my drift). It is probably simple, and once you find it, will be amazed.

[krasmu]

that is kind where I thought we might be going with this one. Can you give a quick location to look for the overdrive switch? I've cleaned the two brake switches and clutch lever switche already. Not sure where to look for the other.

[Tim in NC]

The OD switch is actually the Neutral/OD switch. It is on the left side, down low. I think its just aft of the water pump. It has two (2) wires going to it. One wire plugs into the end of the switch, that's the Neutral wire. The other wire is a ring terminal that is over the threaded part of the switch. That's the OD wire.
NOTE: If you take the switch out, some oil will come out of the hole (don't ask).

Ride safe,
Tim

[VoyKimmer]

My opinion is cruise cable adjustment will fix your problem.

[krasmu]

Ok thanks. This gives a few avenues to start searching.

[krasmu]

adjusted the cruise cable and it is very responsive now as it should be, but that didn't fix the turning off over bumpy roads problem. I did however figure that out while I was at it. I found the two wires going to the front brake lever switch were loose. Fixed those and check all the others that i could find easiely and we are in business. Rode down the bumpiest road in town with no issues. That rounds out my last issue to fix before Hurley.

[ghostler]

Glad you finally got it sorted out and working, Kirk.

I find the Voyager a timeless bike. It may not be as comfortable as a few of the latest offerings, but it certainly is more comfortable than a lot of the latest offerings. For the cost and creature comforts, it does fine. Enjoy your ride!

[krasmu]

Thanks. Me too. See you in the north woods. Ride safe

[garbal]

Followed the video on Youtube by igozumn. My cruise used to take about 27 seconds to grab... now it's instant. I love it now... no more frustration or waiting. Resume works perfectly as does accelerate off of the button. Very simple process... pull the right fairing half off and adjust the cable... I'm glad it works so well.

[ghostler]

Yes, it is amazing. I got mine used 8 years ago. Although it was low mileage then at 33k miles, I found that no one bothered ever to adjust the cable, it was backed all the way down with considerable play. Once adjusted, it worked just like the cruise on a car, made a huge difference on long rides.

However, the electric cruise motor isn't that powerful, so it needs a little boost when climbing steep hills, so I manually goose the throttle a little, otherwise it disengages. Other than that, I works perfectly.

[ekap1200]

I've gone thru all the lockout switches, and the OD switch. I may have an issue with the distance sensor, because I don't have auto cancel on the turn signals, or volume change on the radio. But that may be the AV/AC module that the distance sensor "talks" to.
When I'm at speed in 5th gear, with the CC turned on, I push the "SET" switch on the handlebar. I get a green "SET" light, but CC doesn't kick in. But I'm thinking that since I'm getting a "SET" light, that the control unit is satisfied that all required parameters have been met. If the "brain" works, then I'm thinking it may be in the servo.
Tim

does the set light REMAIN on ? No cancel of turn and no volume control may just be a dirty plug behind the headlamp.
your speedometer works ,/yes ? there are a total of 5 plugs to the cluster. they may show signs of corrosion.
Gene Kap.
doesn't hurt or cost ya, to check them first

[ekap1200]

that is kind where I thought we might be going with this one. Can you give a quick location to look for the overdrive switch? I've cleaned the two brake switches and clutch lever switche already. Not sure where to look for the other.

The other switch is in the center of the carbs. When you remove the false tank, on the left you will see 3 plugs. One of those is the 3rd switch your looking for. If there is not enough slack in the cables it will keep that switch open.