Gas running down back of Carburetor

[kjsett]

Hi, any advice would be great (and pic's).
I have put 90k on my 2003 ZG1200 over the last 9 1/2 years. It has been across the country twice, around the West (out of Phoenix) many times and in 2018 rode to the country of Panama returning in 2019. We are now in the Ogden area of Utah. It now has 105500 miles on it. ok, that was the history. I was an active member of this forum until I left for Panama, and just recently rejoined.

I started smelling gas recently, and when picking up a dropped glove i noticed gas running down the supply hose (from the pump) at the back of the carburetor. I just got the quad air box out (no idea how to put it back) and found the nipple mount is sloppy loose.
The bike seemed to be running fine, but mileage had dropped (duhh).

I am now figuring on a carburetor replacement or rebuild, but i have not done one since the 80's and that was on a small pickup. My preference would be to buy an already rebuilt one by someone who knows what they are doing. Lots of parts kits on Ebay and Amazon, but not enough good reviews to trust them. If I have to pull it, I would rather do the full deal (including floats and diaphragms) while they are out.
I am willing to ship to a person with experience, or receive a good set and send mine back as a core. Cost is important, but I want it done right and I am probably not the best choice.

I sent an inquiry to Carl Leo by email, but so far no response.
I was planning a ride Memorial Day, and possibly to the Flagstaff Rally, but likely neither are happening now.

**Things have changed since last posted. Photo sharing sites are now charging. I can supply pic’s if requested.

[Nails]

**Things have changed since last posted. Photo sharing sites are now charging. I can supply pic’s if requested.

Since you're "green" (a dues-paying member), just add your photos as an attachment. You can do that as an Edit to your original post.

[Bonnie and Clyde]

I would be interested to know what it would cost to have a shop rebuild your carbs and or Carl. I just rebuilt mine when I found my carbs wet to the touch and dripping out of the fuel rail.

[Nails]

When I rebuilt mine, I had to replace pretty-much everything made of plastic or rubber. (But thankfully not the big piston gasket.) The overflow lines in particular had plastic Tees that were rotten through. (Granted, they shouldn't have gas in them anyway.)

[kjsett]

Thanks for the advice on the photo, it should be there now. It shows the fitting with the hose from the fuel pump still attached. it freely pivots and slides left-right with ease. Maybe that was a feature???
I did get a response from "Oldskoolcarbs" of $275 which includes return shipping. He is listed on Facebook as being in SC (South Carolina?) but his website has a California address. Waiting for confirmation and will ship as soon as this afternoon.
I emailed Carl Leo with an address I last corresponded with him (3-4 years ago), but still no response.

[Nails]

Okay, this photo is sideways.

it freely pivots and slides left-right with ease. Maybe that was a feature???

Shouldn't be too freely -- it has to seal against the fuel pump pressure. I think this Tee is metal, so probably doesn't have a leak through a rotten hole. This Tee just sits in there, interference-fit between two carburetors. Getting the carbs off the bike is far more difficult than getting this Tee off the carb rail; and these seals would be a lot less the $275. But a rebuild would do a lot more than just that.

The fuel line might be rotten though; and I'd have to recommend trying a new fuel line. Be advised that pushing this fuel line back on can be profanity-inducing because the Tee will keep rotating away. You'll see when you reinstall the carbs.

You can search this forum for a mod to add a switch that disables the starter motor. This allows pumping up the carb float bowls without grinding on the starter -- a recommended mod for starting the bike after it's been parked a couple days or more. If you do that, you could then install a new fuel line, defeat the starter motor, and pump everything up to see whether the leak goes away or more exactly where it's coming from. You wouldn't have to reassemble everything to test.

[kjsett]

Thanks for the response. I know of the desire to pump up the fuel, but that only seems to happen a couple times a year as I don't normally let it sit. I will look that up though. Wouldn't just a momentary on switch to power up the Fuel Pump work also. Kind of like starting an old airplane.
So your saying that the barrel pipe (It is metal, i believe) is supposed to move? I do plan on replacing any hoses I can access. I figure on riding this bike awhile yet as at 66 I figure i can keep going for a sometime.
I think getting it rebuilt now while it is out is good preventative maintenance as I don't want to have to pull this again anytime soon, or ever. I just don't enjoy wrenching anymore, I prefer riding.
My poor bike is not a polished queen, she, likes me, prefers to be on the road.

[triton28]

The tee which the fuel line from the pump is attached to does indeed move side to side a small amount and it rotates inside of the 2 o-rings, one on each side, which seal the tee to the inside bore of each fuel inlet port. What generally happens is the o-rings deteriorate with age. Replacement of these 2 o-rings involves separating the carburetors from the rack joining them together.
As with good practice mentioned, if these o-rings are starting to leak ALL the rubber o-rings will soon follow so I would suggest it is time to replace them all.
Dave