Power to headlight went kaput!

[Heavy Armor]

So my bike has developed an intermittent problem of losing all power to the headlight. It's not the bulb, dimmer switch doesn't seem to have any effect, it's just DEAD. And then I'll start it up and it's working again. I certainly don't wanna be caught out at night when it decides to be stubborn. Are there any known connector issues that I need to take a look at? I dread having to pull the fairing again and work blindly through all the wiring!

[GrandpaDenny]

Yep, the 10-pin connector is notorious. Left side below the handlebars.

[VoyKimmer]

Take off false tank and left fairing, follow fuse box wire bundle to 10 pin connector . That’s your problem. I cut out 10 pin connector and hard wired everything. That was over 10 years ago and haven’t had a problem since. It’s known to cause electrical problems.

[Heavy Armor]

AWESOME guys, thanks for the tip!

[Bonnie and Clyde]

Good info thanks

[mayhem8]

My bike has been having the same problem. I took off the tank cover, but this must be buried down lower because I could not see it from the top looking down. Lots of connectors, just not a 10 wire/pin one. Was hoping not to have to take the fairing off to get to it. Is this on the left side when sitting on the bike?

FWIW - If I turn the bike on and click the starter, the headlight will come on. Once it's on it seems to stay on, but sometimes when I start it, the light will come on and go off 2 seconds later and stay off. For now, I've just been doing the "starter tick" thing, but this gives me hope for a more permanent fix.

Thanks for posting this.

[Nails]

I don't think the headlight is supposed to fire up until after you start the bike.

Like all the rest of this bike's circuitry, this is complicated. Involving a solenoid/relay and an emergency circuit to keep the headlight on. If there's really a problem, checking that relay would be on my short list -- right after the 10-pin connector.

[mayhem8]

Ticking the starter on mine will fire up the headlight. Not sure if it's supposed to, but I remember seeing that posted someplace else in the forums.

FWIW - I found the 10 pin connector, and Yes, it is buried in there on the left side of the fairing if sitting on the bike. Have not taken the fairing off my bike yet but I can see now I will likely have to do that to get decent access to this connector.

There is a separate lower left and right hand fairing piece that is only held on with 5 screws, but unfortunately taking that off didn't give me any better access to this connector. I was able to push on it, but I'd like to at least take it off, put some dielectric grease on it and reseat it.

[mayhem8]

BTW - Does anyone know offhand where the solenoid/relay is located? It really sounds like the solenoid is supposed to be latching, and is intermittently failing to do so. Once it latches, it seems to stay latched, until I turn the bike off and have to start it again,

[Nails]

BTW - Does anyone know offhand where the solenoid/relay is located?

Headlight (and two others) is sorta behind the headlight under the left fairing, IIRC. The other three or four are under the left side of the fake tank.

It really sounds like the solenoid is supposed to be latching, and is intermittently failing to do so. Once it latches, it seems to stay latched, until I turn the bike off and have to start it again,

Nope, they are not latching. (And all solenoids are identical.) Not sure about this particular circuit, but others have a weird complexity that involves reversing the polarity at places to simulate latching. This is why LEDs don't work in the cruise control lights. And why I hate looking at the schematic. (Enter Dave and his wizz-bang app )

Before turning your brain into tapioca, I recommend just sorting out whether there's actually a problem (lights not coming on when you hit the starter is by design). And if necessary checking the solenoids (I just swap them). You might also buy one (see Dollar for Dollar for $10 replacements), to carry as a spare if nothing else.

[Nails]

Ticking the starter on mine will fire up the headlight.

Maybe that's all it takes, not actually starting it. I remember a circuit for that ... but I don't remember any other details. Dave sent around on here a readable schematic.

Have not taken the fairing off my bike yet but I can see now I will likely have to do that to get decent access to this connector.

There is a separate lower left and right hand fairing piece that is only held on with 5 screws, but unfortunately taking that off didn't give me any better access to this connector. I was able to push on it, but I'd like to at least take it off, put some dielectric grease on it and reseat it.

The fairing is easy to get off and on after the first couple hundred times. IIRC, the lower fairings have four bolts. I can usually twist it around without taking off the case savers. The upper fairing has one on each side and two more in the front. It requires taking off the mirrors, that cowling thing, windshield, and headlight surround (and all associated bolts). Be prepared to hold the fairing up while you disconnect the two lights in it -- a really good place for that dielectric grease. I hold it between an elbow and a knee so I can use both hands on the stuck connectors. (Else pull the light sockets from the fairing.)

If you pull the right fairing, check the cruise control cable slack. Often goes out of adjustment.

[mayhem8]

FWIW - I was able to see and push on the 10 pin plug mentioned previously, without removing anything but the faux tank cover. So far, the headlight issue has not happened since. Whatever the problem is, it's on the hairy edge of working/not working.

[Nails]

So clip that cable tie to remove the tension.

[ekap1200]

BTW - Does anyone know offhand where the solenoid/relay is located? It really sounds like the solenoid is supposed to be latching, and is intermittently failing to do so. Once it latches, it seems to stay latched, until I turn the bike off and have to start it again,

have you had any problems with starting the bike ? ie, starter will not spin ? the headlamp relay is somehow wired into the field to the starter relay. I found this out when I installed a fuel primer button , If you depress the primer button after the bike starts the headlamp relay will drop out.
Gene Kap.

[mayhem8]

ekap1200 - I've not had any problems starting the bike.

As an update, while I couldn't really get good access to the 10 pin connector with the fairing on, I was able to simply push down on the connector. Probably jinxing myself, but the headlight has been behaving since then.

[GrandpaDenny]

Might be worthwhile to get a tie wrap around the connector, if you're not into taking it apart and cleaning things up.

[sheiserman]

ekap1200 - I've not had any problems starting the bike.

As an update, while I couldn't really get good access to the 10 pin connector with the fairing on, I was able to simply push down on the connector. Probably jinxing myself, but the headlight has been behaving since then.

I've had this same problem in the past.

I cut the white wire with the black stripe on each side of the 10 pin and soldered a short chunk of wire between the two pieces and have had no more troubles with the headlight going off.

[Bonnie and Clyde]

ekap1200 - I've not had any problems starting the bike.

As an update, while I couldn't really get good access to the 10 pin connector with the fairing on, I was able to simply push down on the connector. Probably jinxing myself, but the headlight has been behaving since then.

I've had this same problem in the past.

I cut the white wire with the black stripe on each side of the 10 pin and soldered a short chunk of wire between the two pieces and have had no more troubles with the headlight going off.

Thanks for sharing that detailed fix. A+

[sheiserman]

No problem. I farted around with this for two seasons before just fixing it.

I had even gotten accustomed to pulling off on the shoulder when it was dark out and using a flashlight to find and push down on the 10 pin. I'd just quick undo the thumb screws at the front of the tank cover, lift it up and tap the connector , tighten the thumb screws and be on my way again. The last time it happened there were barking dogs involved and I had to take back off before I got the light on. I rode two more miles with flashers only before I could try again.

Never did see the dogs.

[Bonnie and Clyde]

ekap1200 - I've not had any problems starting the bike.

As an update, while I couldn't really get good access to the 10 pin connector with the fairing on, I was able to simply push down on the connector. Probably jinxing myself, but the headlight has been behaving since then.

I've had this same problem in the past.

I cut the white wire with the black stripe on each side of the 10 pin and soldered a short chunk of wire between the two pieces and have had no more troubles with the headlight going off.

I have a couple week trip planned in September 4k miles + or -. I am going to just solder those wires pre-trip to avoid any headlight issues hopefully.