Electrical Gremlin, need confirmation

[Heavy Armor]

Looking at the headlight wiring diagram in the repair manual PDF, am I correct in thinking that, on the plug that feeds into the reserve lighting unit, the red/blue wire should be a positive feed when the switch is on? I've got nothing showing.

I'm trying to figure out why my headlight is completely dead, and 10 pin connector looks mint condition. Having a really hard time tracing everything backwards to see where the disconnect is happening. Super frustrating.

(Also, what the hell is the gold box directly in front of the casette storage with all the wires? I can't find any reference to it).

[triton28]

You should have 12V only after quickly depressing the starter button for a split second, with the ignition switch in the ON position, to complete the circuitry. One does not need to depress the starter button long enough to actually start the engine only to complete the circuitry.
The box you describe is the Cruise Control Module.
Dave

[Heavy Armor]

I guess I don't understand how this works then. From what I can tell on the diagram, that red/blue is the only incoming power to the Reserve Power unit, and the Reserve Power unit is where the positive power comes from, up to the dimmer switch, and then to the headlight bulb. How can that red/blue only have power on it for a second if the headlight is to stay on? All positive wires from the headlight bulb feed back to the Reserve unit.

[triton28]

As far as I can tell, not being an electrical engineer nor a whiz at electronics, when the starter button Yellow wire voltage through a first diode is discontinued , the headlight relay remains a closed circuit due to a 12 V supplementary feed from the R/BL wire which feeds through a second diode to the Y/Bl wire until such time as the ignition switch is de-energised.
To me I describe it as the headlight relay becomes self feeding after using the starter button.
But that is just my understanding of how it works. I may be way off base and if so perhaps one of the more electrically inclined members of this forum could solve your post more accurately.
Dave

[Nails]

I think this complexity is simply to avoid using a latched relay, which when turned "on" would stick that way until you turned it "off". Instead, MaKa designed this odd circuit to maintain the unlatched relay's primary current to keep the relay "on". To turn the relay "off" you break that current.

IIRC the polarity reverses on the relay primary, which I think explains why LEDs don't work in the some indicators like for CC.

Personally, I think it's a thousand wonders it works at all.