NEW TIRES (take to shop or do it yourself)

[glvnthedream]

I am new as a Voyager owner and new to riding. I have found working on my 2002 XII therapeutic, frustrating but also satisfying. I am very appreciative having this forum to ask questions and searching to find answers.

Is it worth saving the shop fees to change tires myself? What’s the skill level required? What are the minimum tool requirements? If I change out the tires, will shops balance for me? Is it possible to balance on my own without breaking the bank on special tool and gadgets?

Would love to hear some stories good and bad as well as suggestions on what I should purchase if I decide to DIY.

I just ordered Shinko 777 white walls for my 2002

Thanks in advance.

[Nails]

I take the wheels in to mount and balance. Have a good indy shop to support, and this is about all the work they get out of me. (But they did screw up a balance once.)

[GrandpaDenny]

I just put a set of Shinko 777s on Gertrude. Pulled the wheels myself, took them to the dealer to get the tires mounted and balanced. Saved myself over a hundred bucks. Not a difficult job, just a lot of stuff to take off the rear of the bike, and that rear wheel and tire are kinda heavy. Not as bad as the 33s on my old Jeep pickup, but I'm also 25 years older than I was then, and 100 pounds heavier.

Front wheel is easy-peasy.

I put a whitewall on the front. I don't think I'll ever do that again, too hard to keep clean. Not that it's really difficult, it's that I'm too busy riding to deal with it LOL. It does look nice, though. I thought about how nice a whitewall would look on the rear, too, but man that would NEVER get cleaned.

[glvnthedream]

I’ve had the front wheel off when I pulled the forks to replaced the seals when I first got the bike. Kicking myself in the butt for not putting in progressives when I did. But I digress.

The rear wheel looks like some fun reading through the manual. Hoping it’s not too tough with my lack of mechanical skills. I prefer electronics.

Thanks for the reply brother.

I just put a set of Shinko 777s on Gertrude. Pulled the wheels myself, took them to the dealer to get the tires mounted and balanced. Saved myself over a hundred bucks. Not a difficult job, just a lot of stuff to take off the rear of the bike, and that rear wheel and tire are kinda heavy. Not as bad as the 33s on my old Jeep pickup, but I'm also 25 years older than I was then, and 100 pounds heavier.

Front wheel is easy-peasy.

I put a whitewall on the front. I don't think I'll ever do that again, too hard to keep clean. Not that it's really difficult, it's that I'm too busy riding to deal with it LOL. It does look nice, though. I thought about how nice a whitewall would look on the rear, too, but man that would NEVER get cleaned.

[GrandpaDenny]

I’ve had the front wheel off when I pulled the forks to replaced the seals when I first got the bike. Kicking myself in the butt for not putting in progressives when I did. But I digress.

Nah, if the front springs aren't clapped out there's no reason to replace them. I only replaced mine because the original ones weren't as firm as a slinky anymore. They were definitely worn out. How's the bike riding? If it's comfortable and working well, then no need to fix what ain't broke.

[Van Voyager]

I hear my local shop now charges $60 a tire to mount and balance. I don't particularly enjoy it, but I do my own - only because I have to drop the wheels at the shop, then come back later to pick up - that totals at least two + hours of traffic going there and back twice. I can change the tires myself in about 20 minutes each or less (except I always take time to clean the wheel meticulously - which the shop isn't going to do) + some time balancing - still a lot quicker than dropping at the shop.

[glvnthedream]

Shop isn't far from me so dropping off and picking up isn't a big deal. Plus I am not prepared to purchase the tools required. on a difficulty scale of 1 (easy day) to 10 (what did I get myself into) how difficult to drop the back wheel? I see I need to pull the mufflers off in the process and I need to put install the center stand too when I receive the stand middle springs I ordered.

Take into account I am not a mechanic but can turn wrenches.

Thanks in advance

I hear my local shop now charges $60 a tire to mount and balance. I don't particularly enjoy it, but I do my own - only because I have to drop the wheels at the shop, then come back later to pick up - that totals at least two + hours of traffic going there and back twice. I can change the tires myself in about 20 minutes each or less (except I always take time to clean the wheel meticulously - which the shop isn't going to do) + some time balancing - still a lot quicker than dropping at the shop.

[Nails]

Not hard a-tall.

[glvnthedream]

Heck of a setup there. My garage floor unfortunately does not drop out. haha Waiting on a quote from the shop to do all the work. Once I get that I will debate on forking over the cash or doing it myself. Still figuring out how to get my jack to properly lift the bike "safely" to pull both wheels off at the same time.

Not hard a-tall.

pits.jpg

[GrandpaDenny]

You don't need to remove the exhaust, just drop it down enough to get at the axle and caliper bracket bolts. It's not a "hard" job at all, hard being things like spark plugs, fuel pump, carbs, air boxes. Things that not only are hard to get to but require four hands to do. Removing the rear tire is easy, just seems intimdating as there is a lot of stuff to remove, but it's not hard. I'd rate it at two bananas. As a comparison, I'd rate fuel pump at 3, carb removal and replacement at 3 1/2. Spark plugs, first time, 3. Once you've got the hang of it and know the tricks and especially if you have a Concours C10 spark plug socket, 1 or 2 bananas. Factory tool kit spark plug socket works really well too. Oh and you need a long spark plug puller tool. That's the key. Without that tool you're up to 5 bananas LOL

[glvnthedream]

Is the picture below the date code? 19th week of 2013?? It’s on the Dunlop 404 I pulled off the front.

Thanks

You don't need to remove the exhaust, just drop it down enough to get at the axle and caliper bracket bolts. It's not a "hard" job at all, hard being things like spark plugs, fuel pump, carbs, air boxes. Things that not only are hard to get to but require four hands to do. Removing the rear tire is easy, just seems intimdating as there is a lot of stuff to remove, but it's not hard. I'd rate it at two bananas. As a comparison, I'd rate fuel pump at 3, carb removal and replacement at 3 1/2. Spark plugs, first time, 3. Once you've got the hang of it and know the tricks and especially if you have a Concours C10 spark plug socket, 1 or 2 bananas. Factory tool kit spark plug socket works really well too. Oh and you need a long spark plug puller tool. That's the key. Without that tool you're up to 5 bananas LOL

[glvnthedream]

Regarding the front springs. When I take the bike off the side stand I get this amount drop in front. Is that normal??

I weigh in around 215. Should I be concerned about riding with a passenger around the same weight?

4-5 month newbie here.

I’ve had the front wheel off when I pulled the forks to replaced the seals when I first got the bike. Kicking myself in the butt for not putting in progressives when I did. But I digress.

Nah, if the front springs aren't clapped out there's no reason to replace them. I only replaced mine because the original ones weren't as firm as a slinky anymore. They were definitely worn out. How's the bike riding? If it's comfortable and working well, then no need to fix what ain't broke.

[GrandpaDenny]

Is the picture below the date code? 19th week of 2013?? It’s on the Dunlop 404 I pulled off the front.

No, the date code is a four-digit number in an oval. First two digits are the week, last two are the year.

[glvnthedream]

That’s the only thing on the tire that comes close to a week and year.

Can someone else verify please.

Is the picture below the date code? 19th week of 2013?? It’s on the Dunlop 404 I pulled off the front.

No, the date code is a four-digit number in an oval. First two digits are the week, last two are the year.

[GrandpaDenny]

This is what you're looking for. 0918 indicates 9th week of 2018..

[glvnthedream]

Nothing like your picture on my tire.

This is what you're looking for. 0918 indicates 9th week of 2018..

[Van Voyager]

Your tire probably predates date codes. This advice will probably set some people's hair on fire, but if it looks good, not cracked or any other signs of unusual wear, I'd keep using it - it'll wear out on its own soon enough.

[glvnthedream]

New tires going on today

Not chancing a blow out riding down the highway. I’m allergic to pain.

Your tire probably predates date codes. This advice will probably set some people's hair on fire, but if it looks good, not cracked or any other signs of unusual wear, I'd keep using it - it'll wear out on its own soon enough.

[GrandpaDenny]

New tires going on today

Not chancing a blow out riding down the highway. I’m allergic to pain.

Good idea. Hope you're not putting another set of 404's on there. They really aren't up to the VXIIs weight and performance. What tires are you putting on?

[GrandpaDenny]

Regarding the front springs. When I take the bike off the side stand I get this amount drop in front. Is that normal??

I weigh in around 215. Should I be concerned about riding with a passenger around the same weight?

4-5 month newbie here.

I base my suspension performance strictly upon feel. If you have the stock suspension, and have fresh oil in it (I think you said you'd put new fork seals in) both front and rear, then go by the recommended air pressures, and you'll be fine. If you find you need to put excessive amounts of air in (like some guys on here do) then you need to think about replacement and the springs are worn out. I only replaced mine with Progressive because of wear (fronts were like slinkies) and damage (elevated unmarked railroad crossing in Georgia at 50 mph blew out my rear shocks, and it was cheaper, easier, and faster to replace than rebuild).

Which reminds me... we've had a few discussion about tire pressures on here, and I discovered the factory tire pressure sticker inside the left side cover day before yesterday. Never really noticed it (as in bothered to read it).

Front tire under all load conditions: 32psi
Rear tire under 265lbs load: 32psi
Rear tire over 265lbs load: 40psi

Total load capacity of the VXII is, IIRC, 465lbs. So with two 215lb passengers (don't forget the weight of gear and anything you've got in the saddlebags or added to the bike) you're fine, but you will want to bring everything up to max (fork air pressure, rear shock air pressure, damping setting, rear tire air pressure) as in max recommended, not what it says on the tires.

If you don't have them (or even if you do as they're very handy IMO), the VXII manuals are all available here on the AVA site. Link in my .sig.