So... I found a jack

[Heavy Armor]

I was looking into ways to jack up the front of these XII's and, according to what I found on this site, it ain't easy. The exhaust sitting lower than the frame is a real PITA, and most people couldn't find a clear way of dealing with it... lots of talk about home made adapters and whatnot.

Well... I found a jack.

Now maybe all the info I was reading is out of date and I never ran across the more updated solutions. If this is old news, then I apologize. But here's the solution I discovered on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186 ... UTF8&psc=1


The catch here is that if you use the rubber adapters on top, they're still too wide and will hang on the exhaust before touching the frame. The jack itself is EXACTLY as wide as our frame, but the scissor hinge bolts on one side of the jack won't let both of the black sliders reach the outer edges. That said, if you just discard the rubber bolts, you can get the black cylinders to line up with the frame. The bike shouldn't slide off because, as you know, the exhaust fits right up against the frame, so there's zero space for the bike to slide left and right once the jack is in place because the exhaust is trapped between the two black slides. You'll probably want to add some cushion on the top of the sliders somehow, or maybe get fancy and cut off one side of the rubber adapters. Either way, I think this is a pretty solid option for getting the front wheel off the ground. I gave it a quick try and managed to get the front airborne with one hand and a couple of turns.

Just thought I'd share!

[SgtSlag]

Looks promising. I am thinking that two sets are needed to safely lift the XII, however. I would want the bike elevated and balanced atop the jacks, by the frame struts.

Putting a thicker piece of rubber on top of the metal cylinders, in place of the rubber cups, seems easy enough. The XII weighs around 800 lbs. wet, so that is not an issue.

My only concern is that using one or two sets of these jacks, will certainly lift the bike, but stability is a little scary: bump the elevated bike, and it could come down on top of the user. Best option would be to bolt these in place, on a strong, large metal plate, or a thick, heavy piece of plywood, broad enough to keep the bike from tipping easily.

In the end, the motorcycle lift that HF sells, seems a better, safer option. It has a very large footprint, and it weights more than 300 lbs., which is why I never pulled the trigger on it. Cheers!

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

I have and use the lift table from HF. Works great and has the drop out panel for rear wheel removal. I got lucky and it was on sale and at the time was aloud to use a 20%off coupon, I'm not sure they are covered by coupons now but worth the try!
My neighbor (Harley owner) actually was looking at it closely when I had my Voyager on it and asking all kinds of questions. He's been wrenching for decades and I was surprised he didn't already have a bike lift. But even HD riders can appreciate it!

[glvnthedream]

Does the HF Lift come as-is able to drop the rear wheel or is an additional jack or adapter required to accomplish this? What about both front and rear wheels at the same time?

Thanks

I have and use the lift table from HF. Works great and has the drop out panel for rear wheel removal. I got lucky and it was on sale and at the time was aloud to use a 20%off coupon, I'm not sure they are covered by coupons now but worth the try!
My neighbor (Harley owner) actually was looking at it closely when I had my Voyager on it and asking all kinds of questions. He's been wrenching for decades and I was surprised he didn't already have a bike lift. But even HD riders can appreciate it!

[Nails]

What about both front and rear wheels at the same time?

Maybe for dirt bikes. But for this piggly beast, I prefer to leave one wheel on it all the time. Before I had the pit, I found a way to get the back wheel off by putting down some 2X10 lumber in three pieces, under the front wheel, centerstand, and back wheel. With the bike on the centerstand, I used a small bottle jack under a header to lift the front wheel (doesn't take much). Then take that down for a tire by itself.

I put it back on and put it down without the board that was under it. That lifts the back wheel pretty far, especially when you take out that rear-wheel board too. I got the wheel out without removing a bunch of crap like the mufflers. However, there's a pretty big risk of pushing the bike off that double-jointed centerstand. It's definitely possible to push the bike backward clear over the centerstand, folding it to the front instead of toward the back. I mean the centerstand can collapse either direction if you get too cowboy with it. Parental discretion advised. (I feel a lot better with the pit.)

I have a stout transmission jack that could definitely handle the bike's weight, but it's too wobbly. Instead, I poured the shop's floor for a recessed bike lift (parallelogram design). I'll use a gantry crane to get it up -- hopefully I'll get that welded up this winter. But of course, that's just bragging.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Greg it comes ready to use with the exception of installing the front wheel clamps. The drop out is large enough for the rear wheel to pass thru. The trick is getting this big ol' gal up on the center stand on the table. Others have built portable sides, so it mimics having it flush to the floor. I just slide my car ramps alongside so while I'm on the bike (on the lift table, still down) I have something to reach out for with my feet for stabilization.
Once she's on the center stand and front wheel clamped, remove the drop out panel and get ready to use muscles to gradually lower the rear wheel. Having a second set of hands is 100% advantageous but I have done it myself several times.
And I am not a body builder, well I've built a heck of a gut!
I"m sure if you're brave enough you could use blocks to stabilize the bike and remove both wheels at once, but I wouldn't. You would need a block under the oil pan area (frame rails) and strap the bike down. Then pray prior to removing the front wheel while the rear is off.

[GrandpaDenny]

I did both tires on Gertrude a few weeks ago with her on the center stand and an ordinary floor jack under the engine. Rock solid.

[Heavy Armor]

Just looking at the HF lift, I can't figure out how that would work for doing something with the front end, like pulling the forks (which is what I'm looking into). Seems like you'd still have to find a way to hold up the front, and then you're right back to needing something that doesn't hit the exhaust..?

[Nails]

It's honestly a non-issue to put the bike on the center stand and then put a bottle jack under the front of the motor -- between headers. There's very little lift required, whether on a fin or not.

If it matters, routine fork maintenance is possible without pulling the forks. The big-box stores sell clamps that are long enough and work even with the fork tubes still in the triple trees.

[GrandpaDenny]

It's honestly a non-issue to put the bike on the center stand and then put a bottle jack under the front of the motor -- between headers. There's very little lift required, whether on a fin or not.

If it matters, routine fork maintenance is possible without pulling the forks. The big-box stores sell clamps that are long enough and work even with the fork tubes still in the triple trees.

I'd like to hear more about this, Nails. It would save me so much time, money, and trouble if I could do fork oil changes without having to take the bike somewhere and pay someone to do it. Especially as I'm still trying to dial-in just the right oil weight and level for these *&()( roads around here.

[Nails]

Boise Barry showed me how to do this (a one-person job), but I honestly haven't needed to get into the forks since. I bought a clamp but haven't used it yet -- due this maintenance cycle.

It's just one of those rail-type clamps that's about 30" long (from memory). It fit right down along the fork tube under the fairing. Use it to compress the cap onto the fork tube -- the clamp's foot (on the end that you can crank down) might even pivot as you turn the cap using a narrow open-ended wrench.

[GrandpaDenny]

is this what you're talking about, Nails?

https://www.harborfreight.com/media/cat ... e_8373.jpg

[Nails]

Yeppers. Just need to put the bike on the center stand and stick a small bottle jack under the front of the engine. (Seems this thread has a echo.)

[GrandpaDenny]

Hello

[GrandpaDenny]

Hello

[GrandpaDenny]

...hello

Yeah, Nails, I think you're right about the echo.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Place the bike on the lift table on the center stand. Then use a ratch strap to hold that rear end down keeping the front end up!

[ted1r]

Hi guys from a very wet East coast UK These scissor lifts as they are over the pond are fantastic I have had mine for years it does everything I want .no garage should be without one

Ps the 1200 is all ok now

Regards Nigel

[GrandpaDenny]

Hi guys from a very wet East coast UK These scissor lifts as they are over the pond are fantastic I have had mine for years it does everything I want .no garage should be without one

Ps the 1200 is all ok now

Regards Nigel

What was the problem?

[ted1r]

The camshaft sprocket bolts were coming undone
See photo look in the middle