At wits end with dead headlight

[Heavy Armor]

I've replaced the main and headlight relays, cleaned all the connectors (nothing looked bad), checked continuity on the headlight negative. 10 pin connector is pristine. No power at all to the headlight. No power to the high beam indicator. No power to the dimmer switch at all. I can't figure out where the power is supposedly to be coming in on the dimmer... There's a solid red wire in the switch that's unaccounted for in the wiring diagram.

Maybe unrelated, but my brake lights won't operate with the hand switch, though I can hear the relay engaging. Lights work as expected with foot switch. I swapped relays around up front with no change to the brake lights. I'm mostly concerned with the headlight at the moment, but thought I'd mention this just in case they were tied together in a way I don't understand.

Anyone know anything else to look at? I'm considering blood sacrifice at this point...

I realize I've been asking questions about this 2, 3 times now. Sorry I'm being annoying, but I'm SUPER frustrated that after all the carb issues I had, my bike's roadworthiness is now being thwarted by one. Frikkin. Bulb.

[GrandpaDenny]

Maybe unrelated, but my brake lights won't operate with the hand switch, though I can hear the relay engaging.

Are you hearing two clicks? There are two switches in there, one for the brake light and one for the cruise control disconnect. If you're only hearing one click, you need a new switch. If you hear two, then you may or may not need a new switch. There is a small hole on the underside of the switch to spray contact cleaner into. Douche it real good and that may help.

As for the 10-pin connector, just because it looks pristine doesn't mean there isn't a broken wire in or around there somewhere. Did you cut the tie wrap to set it free?

You do know that the headlight doesn't come on until you start the bike, right? Or, rather, until you hit the starter switch.

[triton28]

Have you checked the diode assembly for the headlight? Is the Yellow wire on the starter cable hooked up to the Yellow wire of the main harness? This little Yellow wire and the diode it passes through are the key to the headlight working.
Just a thought.

[Heavy Armor]

Denny, yes, I cut the harness free, but looks like I was the first to do so, so the damage may have already been done.

Triton, I did check the yellow wire. It behaves and sends the 12V pulse as the starter is depressed, and stops when the button is released. I also checked the relay, and the blue/yellow wire does the same, so sounds like the diode is working as well. After the bike fires up, one of the blue/red wires from the headlight relay stays hot.

With all this going on, I'm still not showing any power to the dimmer switch, the high beam indicator, and of course no headlight.

[Micoproviso]

When I had a fractured wire at that zip tie, the way I found it was to open up the wire bundle sheathing at the point where the zip tie was to expose all of the wires. Then I handled each wire individually. The fractured one didn’t have any damage visually, but had the consistency of a wet noodle at the fracture when bent. The others were stiff. Cutting and soldering that one wire at that point solved my problems.

[GrandpaDenny]

Our Collective Experience sure has been that the weird, unexplainable, unfindable, untraceable, electrical issues have overwhelmingly been due to, at, near, or around the 10-pin connector.

[VoyKimmer]

Cut out 10 pin connector . Also remove and check every wire in inciting switch. It’s one of the two or both.

[VoyKimmer]

Ignition switch

[cushman eagle]

Ignition switch

Or ignition switch harness

[ekap1200]

As said by the previous two reply's. remove the ing. sw. and using 4 hands ( a helper is reqired at times ) while one person is testing pin to pin, the other person is ( bending , flexing, MOVING ) THE harness. Same with the 10 pin to the fuse box and with handle bar control if you don't find it at those 2 harness's .
Gene

[mayhem8]

Just a thought, but was thinking that a non-contact voltage tester may help trace this down. I just Googled it and they have ones that work for AC and DC for under $20.

[triton28]

I just wondered if you have solved the H/L problem as I was thinking that possibly the headlight "Reserve Lighting Device" may be the culprit. While in Neutral gear with the ignition switch set to ON, the "Engine Stop Switch" set to RUN and the starter button tapped to trigger the headlight relay then the Red/Blue wire to the reserve unit should be providing 12V to the reserve device. From the device there should be 12V leaving along the Blue/Orange and/or the Blue/Yellow wires to the handlebar hi/lo switch. I'm not sure which wire or if both are 12V at normal bulb filament status.
Anyway, just another thought if you haven't conquered the problem,
Dave

[Heavy Armor]

It took me forever to get back around to it (and even longer to get back on here), but I finally gave in a chopped out my perfectly pristine 10-pin connector. I hardwired everything back together.

And now the headlight works every time.

I guess the lesson is: listen to the people with experience, and don't trust the dang 10-pin, ever.

[VoyKimmer]

Seeeeee !!! That darn 10 pin connector has given so much crief to people with these bikes but most don’t want to listen.