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Re: Throttle cable splitter/junction box question.
Back in days when I worked in different cycle shops I made up a lot of cables. It was the days of the Ape Hangers when the correct length cable didn't exist so I would make them up. Cable housing, end caps, cable and all kinds of different ferrules were available. all you did was cut cable and housing to length needed put end caps on housing, Silver Solder one ferrule to cable, slip cable through housing, then Silver Solder the other ferrule on and file the solder smooth. Don't forget to lube the cable before installing. Total time took 15 to 20 minutes.
- Deep Thoughts
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Re: Throttle cable junction box repair
I still don't really see how the carb accelerator cable connects in the junction box, but it must be on that middle cam somewhere.
For the following, I'm referencing your photo, ignoring whether it's upside-down. "Right" means to the right of the photo (the side with the single accelerator cable to the carbs); and "top" means the cam we can see in the photo (the one hooked to the twist grip).
The two "input" cables appear to pull their cams in same rotation direction. They're indexed to a pin attached to the middle cam and riding in slots in the top and bottom cams. The springs apparently keep that pin against one end of the slot for the top cam and against the other end for the bottom cam, so that everything stays hooked together by spring tension. I think that's what you mean by "centering".
So you twist the grip, its accelerator cable tightens, the top cam rotates to the right, pushing the middle cam (and its pin) to the right, which tightens the carb-accelerator cable, thus opening the carb's butterfly valves. To decelerate, you relax the twist-grip's accelerator cable and pull on the decelerator cable, which pulls the carbs closed and relaxes tension on the carb-accelerator cable. The springs in the junction box keep that pin against the end of the slot as we can see in the top cam. (The carb also has a spring to return the carbs to idle when the accelerator cable isn't pulling them open.)
Because cruise control is off in this example, the cam on the actuator is free to rotate -- the electric clutch in the actuator is disengaged. The bottom cam would just blow in the wind if not for the return spring in the actuator and the "opposing" springs in the junction box.
For cruise control (when the actuator clutch is engaged), acceleration similarly pulls the actuator-acceleration cable, rotating the bottom cam to the right (just like the top cam did, above), allowing both the middle and top cams to rotate to the right (the spring tension keeps them together against that pin on the middle cam), which opens the carbs just as above. This also twists the grip down because the carbs relax the deceleration cable and the junction box springs keep tension on the grip acceleration cable (the twist grip is "locked" to the carb rail by the opposing acceleration and deceleration cables). To decelerate, the actuator simply relaxes it's cable (against the return spring in the actuator), which allows the bottom cam to rotate to the left (presumably due to the return spring in the carbs). If the bottom cam can rotate to the left, the middle and top cams can too. Thus the carbs close and the twist grip rotates upward.
So who says MaKa has a penchant for complexity? Here we have only six cams: three in the junction box and one in each of the actuator, twist grip, and carb rail. And only five springs: two in the junction box and one in each of the actuator, twist grip, and carb rail. And only four cables: three accelerator (from grip to junction box, from actuator to junction box, and from junction box to carbs) and one decelerator.
Yikes! (Fly-by-wire is starting to look pretty good.)
I got lost at the "centering" part.Deep Thoughts wrote: ↑Thu Jul 14, 2022 12:54 pmWhat you are seeing is the bottom cam plate which drives the "open" cable into the carburetor linkage. That plate is rotated when throttle is applied at the grip. It is also driven by the top cam plate which is manipulated by the cruise control actuator solenoid. The middle plate is a neutral position locator which aligns and centers the top and bottom cams to work together simultaneously in opposite directions of travel. The clock springs therefore work in opposition to each other to keep neutral tension on the top and bottom cam plates while the center locating pin detemines the direction of cable travel. It is a pretty clever contraption.
For the following, I'm referencing your photo, ignoring whether it's upside-down. "Right" means to the right of the photo (the side with the single accelerator cable to the carbs); and "top" means the cam we can see in the photo (the one hooked to the twist grip).
The two "input" cables appear to pull their cams in same rotation direction. They're indexed to a pin attached to the middle cam and riding in slots in the top and bottom cams. The springs apparently keep that pin against one end of the slot for the top cam and against the other end for the bottom cam, so that everything stays hooked together by spring tension. I think that's what you mean by "centering".
So you twist the grip, its accelerator cable tightens, the top cam rotates to the right, pushing the middle cam (and its pin) to the right, which tightens the carb-accelerator cable, thus opening the carb's butterfly valves. To decelerate, you relax the twist-grip's accelerator cable and pull on the decelerator cable, which pulls the carbs closed and relaxes tension on the carb-accelerator cable. The springs in the junction box keep that pin against the end of the slot as we can see in the top cam. (The carb also has a spring to return the carbs to idle when the accelerator cable isn't pulling them open.)
Because cruise control is off in this example, the cam on the actuator is free to rotate -- the electric clutch in the actuator is disengaged. The bottom cam would just blow in the wind if not for the return spring in the actuator and the "opposing" springs in the junction box.
For cruise control (when the actuator clutch is engaged), acceleration similarly pulls the actuator-acceleration cable, rotating the bottom cam to the right (just like the top cam did, above), allowing both the middle and top cams to rotate to the right (the spring tension keeps them together against that pin on the middle cam), which opens the carbs just as above. This also twists the grip down because the carbs relax the deceleration cable and the junction box springs keep tension on the grip acceleration cable (the twist grip is "locked" to the carb rail by the opposing acceleration and deceleration cables). To decelerate, the actuator simply relaxes it's cable (against the return spring in the actuator), which allows the bottom cam to rotate to the left (presumably due to the return spring in the carbs). If the bottom cam can rotate to the left, the middle and top cams can too. Thus the carbs close and the twist grip rotates upward.
So who says MaKa has a penchant for complexity? Here we have only six cams: three in the junction box and one in each of the actuator, twist grip, and carb rail. And only five springs: two in the junction box and one in each of the actuator, twist grip, and carb rail. And only four cables: three accelerator (from grip to junction box, from actuator to junction box, and from junction box to carbs) and one decelerator.
Yikes! (Fly-by-wire is starting to look pretty good.)
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- Deep Thoughts (Tue Jul 19, 2022 6:25 am) • cushman eagle (Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:51 am)
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Nails
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Re: Throttle cable junction box repair
In the good old days -- when the ships were wood and the men were iron -- I made cables from scratch: a big gob of solder that I filed down to resemble normal cable ends. I splayed the last 1/16" of the cable so the solder would hold a little better. But yeah, sometimes they pulled off.
That was okay because in those days I was young and indestructible. And kinda sthupid.
That was okay because in those days I was young and indestructible. And kinda sthupid.
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Nails
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- cushman eagle (Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:51 am)
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Re: Throttle cable junction box repair
The throttle cable junction box is one item I have never opened as I don't do well with coiled spring activated rotating discs of any kind. Even a lawn mower starting pawl recoil mechanism bugs me to have to wind it up and they are simple to do.
So Deep Thoughts and Nails your collective treatise on this topic has been most enlightening and please Deep Thoughts do post your "wrap up/final assembly pictures" as I for one would like to read/see it and lessen my fear of opening the lid on this mysterious cable assembly.
Thanks to both,
Dave
So Deep Thoughts and Nails your collective treatise on this topic has been most enlightening and please Deep Thoughts do post your "wrap up/final assembly pictures" as I for one would like to read/see it and lessen my fear of opening the lid on this mysterious cable assembly.
Thanks to both,
Dave
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- cushman eagle (Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:51 am)
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