How to get the boots back into the Airbox

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ekap1200
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Re: How to get the boots back into the Airbox

Post by ekap1200 »

David , sorry to hear your dilema about the valves. At the time I made mine up the valves cost me only 10 dollars each. I see now on smc's site they are considerably more. I will look around for an alternative, using one valve, and constantly moving it to each vac line, may prove to be more time consuming and aggrivating than its worth.
"Its not bad if you don't know something, but when you don't know you don't know; That's when your in trouble". Joe Place 1912-2008 (my grandfather)
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SilverBullet
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Re: How to get the boots back into the Airbox

Post by SilverBullet »

ekap1200 wrote:David , sorry to hear your dilema about the valves. At the time I made mine up the valves cost me only 10 dollars each. I see now on smc's site they are considerably more. I will look around for an alternative, using one valve, and constantly moving it to each vac line, may prove to be more time consuming and aggrivating than its worth.
I found a valve yesterday that should work for $5. I'll test it out in a day or two and post back. If it works then I have a complete carb sync set-up for less than $25.

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SilverBullet
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Re: How to get the boots back into the Airbox

Post by SilverBullet »

SilverBullet wrote: Had an afterthought. I think I'll go buy a single valve. I found one for under $10. Then I can use that in conjunction with my one at a time line set-up. Drat I already returned the Harbor Freight guage. Oh well I'll have to use up another one of my 20% off coupons.
The valve I bought didn't work, needle still bounced even with the valve in off position. It was a decent quality brass valve for air tools. By exerting hand pressure on valve adjust knob in off position I finally did get needle bounce down to about a 5hg range. Enough of a rough check for now to know I'm not out of sync by too much if any. I think I'll just start watching eBay for a good price on a used manometer type carb stick.

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