Winterize your Ride

[SgtSlag]

If you have a scissors jack, you can put it under the front part of the engine, with a block of 2x4 between it, and the bike's engine, to lift the front wheel off of the floor. This will allow the bike to have both tires off of the ground, during storage: it will be supported by the center stand, and the scissors jack. I've never found flat spots to be an issue, after storing my bike for five months, but YMMV. Cheers!

[GrandpaDenny]

My version of winterization will be complete today, just in time for this apparently monster storm arriving tomorrow. They're talking six inches to over a foot of snow and sleet. Last tasks:

1. Clean out and repack tools - done - just have to reinstall the saddlebag
2. Installed seat heaters properly in the new seat - done - just have to reinstall the seat
3. Full tank of gas with SeaFoam - done

Looks like it's going to stay cold and icy the rest of the week. I may have to have her towed to my friend's house for storage if it's too icky to ride on moving day. Not sure on the exact day of the move, might not be until next week.

-Dennis

[mayhem8]

We're getting anywhere from 7-14" of snow by us tonight into tomorrow. Mon & Tue will be sunny and 40 & 42F for highs, so perhaps you can move the bike then GrandpaDenny.

Sunday is now posted as a high of 36F and will be the first time above freezing between now and then, so not looking like I'll get a ride in to warm up that final drive gear lube. I do have a garage though so can just start and run it in gear on the center-stand to warm up the gear lube so I can replace it. Only fluids I'll not have tackled are the clutch/brake fluid and the rear shocks since I got the bike earlier this year.

Perhaps ignorance is bliss, because the ride doesn't seem bad with the stock rear shocks pumped up to 45-50 PSI. If they go bad, I'll replace them with the progressive spring shocks, but they seem OK to me for now. They did suck with the recommended max of 26 PSI (as I recall). I took the advice of one or 2 here and pumped them up higher, and glad I did. Figured I had nothing to lose.

Lots of winter to do the rest of the fluids and any other maintenance I can think of. For now, my sled (1994 SkiDoo Grand Touring 670) and snowblower are ready to go.

[mayhem8]

Though the weather wasn't great, I did manage to start/run my bike this past Sunday on the center-stand in gear so that I could warm up, drain and replace the final drive gear lube. It looked like it was due, plus I got in a bit more run time in after having added the fuel additive and now I'm sure that it is through the whole fuel system at this point.

Even though it was only 34F, I did notice that the bike came about halfway up on the temp gauge and the radiator fan came on. Not sure if it would overheat if sitting there running long enough, but it's pretty clear that the bike doesn't like running while just sitting still.

[VoyKimmer]

I hope you only put in 180 cc or 6 oz otherwise it will leak out the front and make a big mess when it gets hot out in the summer. I learned this the hard way on a long trip. I thought it was like any other differential to the top of the fill port. I even had mine 1/4 inch below the fill port and it leaked. Also only use hypoid gear lube as per the manual. Don’t use synthetic or it will find a way out.

[mayhem8]

This is why this forum is worth the price of admission Yes, I did miss about the amount, but no harm/foul. I can drain it out and put the correct amount in since I haven't driven the bike anywhere and won't for a while. Thanks.

[SgtSlag]

We've had our temp gauge get 3/4 up, sitting in traffic, with the fan running, on a hot Summer day's ride. I pulled over, and we parked it. Traffic was going nowhere. We took a walk around the town we were in, and when we came back, the traffic jam was gone.

Other times, the gauge has risen dangerously high, but we've gotten out of traffic, and then the gauge came down, rapidly. It only takes 30 MPH to cool the engine, but highway speeds are even better/faster. I would recommend paying close attention to that temp gauge in bad traffic. Just my opinion. Cheers!

[cushman eagle]

Several years ago,in traffic,my gauge would get to 1/2 way position with the fan running,then before" winter service" I saw a dribble of antifreeze below the engine.
I found it was coming from the water manifold o-rings.
In the process of changing them,I very gently soaked, then with a low pressure washer,cleaned an amazing amount of bug residue out of the radiator.
Now in traffick,the gauge goes up 2 needle widths,the fan comes on,and that is all the higher it goes,then the fan cycles on and off to keep it there.
I also used that opportunity to change all the radiator hoses.

[SgtSlag]

I think I need to flush my bike's radiator... Thanks for sharing. Cheers!

[mayhem8]

Come the next season, I will try to spray through the radiator with a hose end sprayer. It makes sense that it would get gunked up with bugs, road grime and stuff over time. I have a pressure washer, but I'd be worried that it may damage the radiator.

[cushman eagle]

Come the next season, I will try to spray through the radiator with a hose end sprayer. It makes sense that it would get gunked up with bugs, road grime and stuff over time. I have a pressure washer, but I'd be worried that it may damage the radiator.

The pressure washer I used has a variable speed gas engine I was able to run at slow idle,that reduced the pressure.
I had to remove the radiator to replace the water manifold 0-rings,that gave me the opportunity soak the radiator with soapy water,then use the pressure washer in a gentle spray.

[mayhem8]

Based on VoyKimmer's input, I drained the synthetic gear lube from the final drive and replaced it with the proper amount (210 mL) of non-synthetic GL-5. After he mentioned that, I have had experience with things leaking after switching to synthetic that never leaked with the regular stuff.

[ekap1200]

I had that same issue, when I first did a final-drive oil change on my 2000. Reading about a vent hole no longer used, at the first tire change I drilled the opening with a 1/32 drill bit. It had all the problems as stated in the reading, gear oil , migrating up the drive shaft and dripping out of the boot. So along with opening up a vent, I also replaced both slip-joint O-rings and liberally applied Water-proof grease. To further seal things up, I installed a thin plastic-tie to the rear end of the rubber boot to the swing arm, to further seal anything dripping from the bike, and seal that boot up. That was about 80,000 miles ago and I DO fill the housing up to the fill opening. Both the waterproof grease and gear oil are from Bell-Ray products and have worked well for me.

Be advised that the slip joint ring-clip is quite a bit deep into the sleeve and a LONG, or modified ring-clip tool is needed to remove said clip.
Gene Kap.

[cushman eagle]

I had that same issue, when I first did a final-drive oil change on my 2000. Reading about a vent hole no longer used, at the first tire change I drilled the opening with a 1/32 drill bit. It had all the problems as stated in the reading, gear oil , migrating up the drive shaft and dripping out of the boot. So along with opening up a vent, I also replaced both slip-joint O-rings and liberally applied Water-proof grease. To further seal things up, I installed a thin plastic-tie to the rear end of the rubber boot to the swing arm, to further seal anything dripping from the bike, and seal that boot up. That was about 80,000 miles ago and I DO fill the housing up to the fill opening. Both the waterproof grease and gear oil are from Bell-Ray products and have worked well for me.

Be advised that the slip joint ring-clip is quite a bit deep into the sleeve and a LONG, or modified ring-clip tool is needed to remove said clip.
Gene Kap.

Thank you,Gene,for mentioning the undrilled vent hole.I went for about a 200 mile ride just before the Ashville rally,and found oily residue on my driveshaft boot which was gear oil.
Remembering a post about that,I pulled the rear wheel,and found the hole was not drilled
I,too,used about a 1/32 bit and drilled,with the bit breaking off as it went through the inside wall
I then removed and disassembled the rear drive to fish the bit out.
I did get it back together to get to Ashville.

[Dave]

Interesting test of fuel stabilizers: https://youtu.be/chsGBhB5g7o

Spoiler alert - most of them, including Seafoam didn't perform that well.

[VoyKimmer]

I drilled my hole many many years ago before I had my bad experience . Driving down to Degray Lake , Arkansas for the rally not sure what year. Thinking maybe it was 2010. It was very hot. Into the 100s with very high humidity . Stopped in Effingham , IL for the night noticed oil coming out of the front of my swing arm. Smelled it and it was gear lube. Checked the final drive and it looked low. Walked to a Walmart near the hotel and all they had was outbound motor gear lube . Brought it and topped off my final drive. Next day made it to Degray Lake and I had oil all over the left side of my bike . Carl Leo was there and I told him about my problem. He asked me a few questions like how much did you put in and what kind. I told him amsoil gear lube. The next day he gave me a measuring container and a funnel and told me to go to a dealer in town and told me to buy bel ray hypoid 80w 90 gear lube . Drain that slippery synthetic crap out of there and put in 180 cc of the bel ray hypoid gear lube in and you won’t have a problem again. He says that synthetic is so slippery if there is a way it can get out it will. Have not had a problem since. But did take my rear end apart when I got home and cleaned out my swing arm and took apart and inspect my final drive and drive shaft good and took apart the u-joint and greased it good. Now I know it’s overkill but I change my final drive oil once a year with 6 oz no less no more of bel ray hypoid gear lube once a year .

[drtechnology]

I just changed Gertrude's oil and filter, and checked all her other fluids (they were all changed last winter and spring). Also did a general lube. Need to change the spark plugs, it's been about 12,000 miles since I put these in - can just imaging what they look like. Have a fresh set of Iridiums ready to go it (but packed up for the move). I ride all winter as long as there isn't snow, ice, and salt on the roads (I ran into some salt and slush the other day on a ride, turned around and headed inland and south where the roads were clear). No battery tender. AGM battery. No indoor storage, just a good cover. Last winter I had a parking lot to keep her in, and there was no snow. I am moving and will no longer have a parking lot, she will be parked on the street. I do have a friend willing to let me keep her on his patio when the snow starts. I don't think I'm going to be lucky like last year. Methinks we will be getting snow this year.

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