Harbor Freight Trailer

[ghostler]

Hello, trikebldr, no, you're not raining on my parade per say. I should have asked first before purchase. I don't like to take unnecessary risks and am a cautious rider, too.

The HF trailer's tongue is 21 inches to the edge of the coupler, 29 inches to the center of the ball from trailer's frame. It is rather short. I'd like to lengthen it at least another foot, but don't know where to get the material to do this. With only 21 inches doesn't leave much room for a cooler. I'd like a cargo box to put my HF 900 Watt 2 cycle generator and gallon gas can in. An extra foot would help.

[trikebldr]

I have an excellent metal supply warehouse near me, but there are several really good online suppliers, too! I have used Metals Depot several times in the past. Tried to bring them up, but got an error message for them this time. Goggle "online metals" to see others. Sellers on eBay are also usually willing to cut to length whatever you want.
If all else fails, you could PM me and I could work with you get a whole new tongue and/or swivel coupler made up.
Question, do you have any close idea of just what your max gross weight would be of your trailer and load?

Don't be afraid to go extra long on the tongue.

[doug of so fla]

Measure trailer tongue from axle line and it should be at least 1-1/2 times the width of the trailer or axle ( wheel nut to wheel nut)
The ball should be as close as you can get to rear axle of M/C & the ball center should be sitting just below the M/C axle with your weight on M/C. That is so when you step on rear brake the inertia of trailer goes forward and pushes DOWN on the hitch.
If ball is to high, (higher than axle). trailer will wag at speed and when you step on rear brake the inertia will try to lift m/c rear up and you will lose stopping power & control .
A properly set-up trailer will stop better than many M/C's without a trailer. It will basically try to drive the rear tire into the pavement as you step on the brake and get better traction. Chains crossed under coupler so trailer can not fall to pavement if it becomes disconnected. (It is the law)
Hitch should not be able to move when connected to M/C and it should be connected to center of M/C FRAME, not sub frame.
Run trailer lights on a separate circuit direct from battery using a relay & led lights saves battery & alternator power. Use a trailer adapter or isolater to protect M/C wiring harness in case of short.
PRACTICE!!!!! before doing any heavy riding with your unit Ride Safe!!

[trikebldr]

Ghostler,

Here's a VERY rough drawing of the coupler pivot I will be using on mine. As I said, I pulled my trailer, with a solid hitch, over 100k miles with just one "layover" that didn't do any damage. All that's required is to be able to allow the coupler to rotate "in case" you lay over too far. It doesn't have to be totally free to rotate. just a little bit of tension would be fine, so I can adjust the torgue on the 3/4" pivot bolt (grade 8, with locking nut, or two jam nuts) to keep the two round discs snug against each other. The teflon discs will allow fairly free movement between the two steel discs. Those discs can be about 4" diameter, and 1/4" thick would work fine, but I overbuild so mine will be 3/8" thick. The teflon discs can be almost any thickness, but I will try to find some 1/16".

I've used this pivot system before on a trailer pulled behind an off-road buggy or Jeep. They have just as much trouble with coupler bind!

[ghostler]

Thanks, trikebldr for the kind offer. I received the pivoting hitch and was disappointed in the quality. I thought it would be something that had a smooth pivot. Instead, it's motion is rather sloppy with lots of play around the bolt hinge and sideways movement, definitely unusable.

doug of so fla, you mentioned that the ball should be lower than the trailer axle. With hitch location on my bike and the "ergonomics" of the Harbor Freight trailer, that won't happen. The bed is too high, and my hitch, apparently a standard product by previous owner does not sit low. I know what you are talking about, because I know of a long distance Goldwing rider with a homemade trailer. His is set up that way.

When mounted to the bike, the trailer bed does slant downward to help push and put pressure on the rear tire. I have no problems coming to a quick stop. Short of opting for a custom made trailer, I'm sticking with my HF one.

[823JIM]

I too, had removed one of the leafs on my HF. Don't know if they've changed them, but my HF trailer had odd sized bearings. The standard Wallyworld/auto parts house trailer bearing kits wouldn't work. I had found numbers on the trailer towing forum. Not sure I have that list anymore. May have sent it with the trailer when I sold it.

Harbor Freight Trailers have metric spindles, hubs and dust caps. Most (if not all) auto part stores, trailer part stores or TSC do not stock wheel bearings or dust covers that will fit. They can be found on the internet. If pulling one of these trailers I recommend having a spare set with you in case of a problem on a trip.
http://www.easternmarine.com/review/pro ... t/id/9463/

[ghostler]

Yup, good point, quality of those bearings are a little iffy. Someone on a forum was saying about replacing with Timken. I'd have to find the correct metric size in Timken. I've seen the generic replacements on the Internet, don't know their quality. I've got one slinging grease so I'll need to look into it further, seal seems OK. Had a Chinese bearing go out on my budget elliptical exerciser early on (after warranty expired), bought a replacement.

Regarding the comment on crossing the chains as law, NM has no such requirement. (One website listed a summary, can't find it for now.) The HF trailer does not have the chains mounted to each side of the tongue bar. It is mounted with a cross bolt through a middle link. If I lived in FL or NY, would do so could be registered and safetied. AFAIK, NY requires chain retainers to be permanently welded to each side of the trailer tongue, bolting not permitted.

I could be wrong, but I don't think a state would cite trailer hook up not complying with their law if not licensed in their state as long as it complied with licensed state.

Here in NM, a tow behind motorcycle trailer doesn't require titling. I did it because once I put it behind my pickup, it is no longer legal. Titling plus permanent registration and plates was under $60 for me in NM (no annual re-registration, re-inspection not required). Plus, it makes it easier to sell or retitle in another state as I readily have proof of ownership.