Oil filter torn off during ride. Can it be saved?

[cjalaska]

Long time lurker and first time posting. Living in Alaska has a few challenges. I was driving off the ferry and the ramp was a little bit too steep. It snagged the oil filter and tore it out of the lower part of the engine block. I was able to turn off the engine quickly. The bike is in great shape. I have about 50,000 miles on it. The only thing I can think of is buying a new engine. Would I be better off selling the parts off? What are my options?

This is the only bike of this kind in this town. Nobody in Alaska and the Yukon is willing to take it on. Suggestions of any kind would be helpful. Thanks!

[triton28]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-ZG1200 ... lH&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Unless of course you tore the oil filter bolt threads out, this and a new gasket should do you

Dave

[Mr Jensee]

I believe the entire bottom plate on the Voyager is replacable. Please before you do anything else, contact Carl Leo at voyagerparts@bellsouth.net for advice and possible parts.

[timmerz_1]

^^^^^
This!
That's the guy that can help you out like no other!

[sheiserman]

Long time lurker and first time posting. Living in Alaska has a few challenges. I was driving off the ferry and the ramp was a little bit too steep. It snagged the oil filter and tore it out of the lower part of the engine block. I was able to turn off the engine quickly. The bike is in great shape. I have about 50,000 miles on it. The only thing I can think of is buying a new engine. Would I be better off selling the parts off? What are my options?

This is the only bike of this kind in this town. Nobody in Alaska and the Yukon is willing to take it on. Suggestions of any kind would be helpful. Thanks!

I had a very similar situation a couple years ago. Instead of the filter, I ripped out the drain plug. Carl said I was lucky I didn't brake the oil pump. He sold me a new pan and I made a trailer specifically for my XII, so it wouldn't happen again.

[JTC1]

CJ was the oil filter bolt loose after it was torn out or was there a piece of metal holding the bolt cover and filter together?

[JTC1]

The part that the filter cover bolt threads into is replaceable (PN 32099 Listed on the oil pump parts breakdown) held on with 6 or 7 bolts and some o rings. This happened to me earlier this year and I had to show the Kaw service guy that it was indeed replaceable. exhaust and oil pan have to come off. part is shown on www.kawasakipartshouse.com just look for the oil pump parts picture.

[cjalaska]

Thank you everyone for the quick responses. Very helpful. I was going to post some pictures to show how badly damaged it was but that will have to wait until tomorrow.

It looks like I will have to replace the oil pan (pn49034), oil filter case (pn32099), the pin, oil pan gasket (pn11009a), possible breather body gasket (pn11009), 90mm oil ring (pn671). There are a few more options from the oil filter case. Little gaskets and O-rings. I just knew I wasn't the only person this has had to have happen to. I have the saddlebags off and most of the plastic from the front and lower area. Next is the exhaust. BTW I did try and take off the oil pan while the exhaust is still on there. No chance. I don't have much room to work on this but since winter is coming I have a few days to tinker with it. I will keep you posted and hopefully you will see us on the road.

Once again thanks for all the help. More for giving me hope that it can be done.

[cjalaska]

https://flic.kr/p/LPEWLN

https://flic.kr/p/LPJZ7k

I think this is correct. One picture show the rim of where the oil filter sits and the other picture shows a close up of the damage to the threads from the pin. Let me know if this didn't work. I think I have all the parts ready to be ordered. Thanks!

Images below added by webmaster: these are the images that you would see by clicking on the links listed above

[carl leo]

Why are you replacing the expensive oil pan? what is damaged is under it, i have never seen the need to replace the pan when all that is broken is the 32099-1082 oil filter case...

[cjalaska]

Why are you replacing the expensive oil pan? what is damaged is under it, i have never seen the need to replace the pan when all that is broken is the 32099-1082 oil filter case...

Awesome, thanks! That's what I was hoping for. Do you have any suggestions for replacing the part? Would I need any new gaskets? Or would I just reuse all the O-rings? I understand that it would matter if it was torn while being disassembled. I do have the manual so I would just be following what they say. Looks like it will take a week for the parts to get here. I will post some pictures when I am ready to get my hands dirty.

[JHD]

How bad is that face that the oil filter cap seals to. Maybe a side shot picture of that area would show if it is that bad. You would think that if it is damaged you would be able to dress that surface and not have any interference problems. Hopefully you don't have to spend any $$$ on a new pan could also look for a nice used one if needed.

[JTC1]

Why are you replacing the expensive oil pan? what is damaged is under it, i have never seen the need to replace the pan when all that is broken is the 32099-1082 oil filter case...

Awesome, thanks! That's what I was hoping for. Do you have any suggestions for replacing the part? Would I need any new gaskets? Or would I just reuse all the O-rings? I understand that it would matter if it was torn while being disassembled. I do have the manual so I would just be following what they say. Looks like it will take a week for the parts to get here. I will post some pictures when I am ready to get my hands dirty.

I would not reuse the "O" rings. Not worth taking a chance on. Replace with new ones! IMHO of course.

[Mr Jensee]

The good news is the part is still available, at least on Bikebandit.com. The price is reasonable too at $170. Yes I agree with other posters, replace the O rings as well. You don't want to have to go under the engine again more than you have to.

[cjalaska]

Great news. The oil filter case has been replaced. I cheated and instead of taking off the exhaust I was able to loosen and spread them enough to be able to take off the oil pan. I replaced all new gaskets and was able to reuse the oil pan. Now I have a small amount of leaking oil so I need to check the bolts and hopefully nothing has come loose since I have only been starting it up. Putting all the fairing on this weekend and going to try and go for a short ride. This winter was also the time to replace the front forks with Progressive Suspension and I can't wait to see how they feel. I have some new rear shocks coming in the mail sometime in the next month. So hopefully this will be ready for a road trip.

Thank you to everyone how helped out with ideas.

[Mr Jensee]

Glad to see your problem is solved.

[cranky]

Great news. The oil filter case has been replaced. I cheated and instead of taking off the exhaust I was able to loosen and spread them enough to be able to take off the oil pan. I replaced all new gaskets and was able to reuse the oil pan. Now I have a small amount of leaking oil so I need to check the bolts and hopefully nothing has come loose since I have only been starting it up. Putting all the fairing on this weekend and going to try and go for a short ride. This winter was also the time to replace the front forks with Progressive Suspension and I can't wait to see how they feel. I have some new rear shocks coming in the mail sometime in the next month. So hopefully this will be ready for a road trip.

Thank you to everyone how helped out with ideas.

Do NOT over tighten the bolts, or it will leak worse!!!!! JM2C

[cjalaska]

Thank you Cranky for that advice. So far after two weeks of riding all the leaks have cleared up. The fuel was leaking a little but after some riding the seals came back to normal. Right now I am looking up the idle issue. The idle seems really high and so I need to fix that before a road trip this next week. Thanks everyone for the great help.

[Nails]

> The idle seems really high

I had to lubricate all that rat's nest of throttle cables, straightened some of them out (very tortuous routing, made a little worse with my narrower handlebars), and adjust the cables at the carbs. Mine still only return to about 1300 RPM, especially if turning hard -- I often have to turn the throttle to get down to 800.

Before doing any of that, I disassembled/cleaned the carbs -- they were pretty gummed up inside and out and didn't move very well by the spring. And, of course, adjust the idle.

[On-rock1]

I had the same thing happen. I replaced the broken part and gaskets. But now it doesn't start. Nothing when I press the button. I believe it has something to do with the oil sensor that is on the bottom of the engine. Did you have to something to get yours to start?