Draining and replacing coolant

[mayhem8]

I'm looking to do this soon. I did find the manuals online here, but the problem is that the picures they show you are so in close, I literally couldn't tell from the cooling system section what side of the bike things were even on.

Sitting on the bike, I took off the chromed panel on my left side and found the coolant reservoir under that. I then noticed a metal cover held on with 4 small bolts that I got off with a 5/16" 6-point socket (probably actually 8mm). The cover was cut around wht I believe is the oil fill plug.

Once I got that cover off, I was able to see what I believe is the water pump and the coolant pipe that runs to it. I identified what looks like the bleeder bolt in the top middle of the water pump.

Under the bike, up near the front and between the exhaust header pipes is a pipe with a 9 mm bolt sticking straight down. While under there, I hit it with some PB Blaster and it was surprisingly easy to crack it free. Someone must have put anti-seize on it.

I have already had the faux tank cover off multiple times so I already know how to do that and saw the radiator cap while under there. For now, I'm just setting up to do this as I still need to get the antifreeze and distilled water. Just checking in to make sure all of this sounds about right.

BTW - What I believe is the drain bolt on the water pipe came off surprisingly easy. So easy it made me question if I had the right one, but it looks right. Perhaps I just got lucky and/or the prior owner kept up with the maintenance better than I originally thought. If I get a chance, I'll take and post some pictures and perhaps help the next person like me that has to do this.

[triton28]

Yes you have identified the pump, painted black, 10 mm headed bleeder bolt
Yes you have identified the coolant 10mm headed drain bolt on the steel pipe from the cylinder block to the pump. This bolt has a washer between the pipe flange and the bolt head.
Pour the coolant in slowly and allow the system to purge the air. Then loosen the pump purge bolt and exhaust any air in the pump and then re-tighten the bolt. Top up the reservoir tank also. See pages 3-4, 3-5 and 3-6 in the Cooling System section of the MSM.
REMEMBER: hot water can scald.

[Nails]

You might consider:

- flushing the coolant system. Mine returned an astonishing mess -- took a few flushes. I like Prestone flush stuff.
- replacing the cap.
- replacing the o-rings in that housing (search on it here).
- replacing some hoses -- at least the ones on the housing. Parts resources listed in Dollar-for-dollar.
- taking a good look at the reservoir hose. Mine was squished from previous work, rendering that whole recovery system useless (or worse).

I try to replace all rubber/plastic bits I come across. These bikes are old.

[mayhem8]

The fact that the coolant drain bolt loosened up so easily has me thinking that this may have been done not all that long ago. I've seen the flush suggested with a 50/50 vinegar and distilled water mix. I will see how the stuff I drain out looks before I decide on a flush.

Thanks for the verification and suggestions so far. The other thing that I may do is an oil/filter change at the same time. If I do, I'll probably make that a seperate thread. Going to try to remember my camera to take and upload some pictures. Someone else did in an old thread but they appear to have been deleted somehow.

As mentioned, the pictures in the manual zoom in so much that you can't even tell where they are on the bike, and the text is sometimes kind of lacking.

[mayhem8]

Got the coolant as well as the oil/filter changed. The coolant (other than what was in the reservoir) was really clean. I perhaps didn't need to change it, but the bike is new to me so it's worth it to me to know the status of the regular maintenance items.

I'll try to post the pictures I took tomorrow if I get time. Was going to do a seperate post for the oil/filter change but found a decent YouTube video on it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpWNwD_96d0.

[mayhem8]

Here is a picture of the socket on the coolant drain bolt. For reference you can see the lower part of the front fairing and the back side of the front fender -

Here's a close-up of the pipe with the socket on the drain bolt itself -

Here's a picture with the end of the ratchet pointing to the radiator cap with the faux gas tank cover off and the handlebars as reference -

The screwdriver is pointing to the cover that has to come off to access the water pump. It's held on with four 8MM screws. Make note when taking them off because 2 of them are longer than the other 2 -

The screwdriver is pointing to the bleeder bolt for the water pump. Up and to the right you can see the coolant overflow tank. This is all on the left side of the bike if sitting on it with the chrome trim cover removed. The cover has one phillips screw holding it on along with 2 studs that push into grommets -

[Molalla+Voyager]

Thank You for this post.
I think it was very well done and should help those, like me, who haven"t yet dug into this sort of thing.

[drtechnology]

Got the coolant as well as the oil/filter changed. The coolant (other than what was in the reservoir) was really clean. I perhaps didn't need to change it, but the bike is new to me so it's worth it to me to know the status of the regular maintenance items.

I'll try to post the pictures I took tomorrow if I get time. Was going to do a seperate post for the oil/filter change but found a decent YouTube video on it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpWNwD_96d0.

I used the same video and posted it here I think 2 months ago or so when I got my (New to me) '02 Voyager XII

It is a nice video, as are your pics of radiator flush and coolant swap. Old owner just did it so I am in no rush to mess with coolant but now I have a reference when I am. Thanks

[mikegragg]

Here is a picture of the socket on the coolant drain bolt. For reference you can see the lower part of the front fairing and the back side of the front fender -

DSCF1995.JPG

Here's a close-up of the pipe with the socket on the drain bolt itself -

DSCF1994.JPG

Here's a picture with the end of the ratchet pointing to the radiator cap with the faux gas tank cover off and the handlebars as reference -

DSCF1993.JPG

The screwdriver is pointing to the cover that has to come off to access the water pump. It's held on with four 8MM screws. Make note when taking them off because 2 of them are longer than the other 2 -

DSCF1992.JPG

The screwdriver is pointing to the bleeder bolt for the water pump. Up and to the right you can see the coolant overflow tank. This is all on the left side of the bike if sitting on it with the chrome trim cover removed. The cover has one phillips screw holding it on along with 2 studs that push into grommets -

DSCF1991.JPG

I am unable to view the photos. It says I lack permissions?

[mikegragg]

Disregard. A screen refresh did the trick. Many thanks for the explanation and photos. Nicely presented!

[Riley1841]

I know this is old thread, but getting ready to do this on my 99. Pictures and advice are great.

[Vdriveboater]

Maybe a stupid question, but does the bike need to be running when "bleeding" the air out through the bleeder screw?

[GrandpaDenny]

Maybe a stupid question, but does the bike need to be running when "bleeding" the air out through the bleeder screw?

Yes.

[Vdriveboater]

I opened the "bleed screw" yesterday (before starting engine) after filling with the new coolant and some coolant came out quickly, so not sure if any air was expelled. Today I rode about 25 miles and I noticed coolant running down the left side case and dripping on the ground, with the source being the rad fill cap (which was secured). I assume this was due to heat expansion/equalization from the "full fill" I did when cold, but I wonder why the coolant didn't flow down the tube to the overflow/reservoir tank (which is half full)? Could it be that my cap (looks original) is old/faulty? I did notice that the temp gauge now sits just above the first mark (a bit higher than before), and I wonder if this might indicate the presence of an air gap (previously or now)?

I took IR gun temps at the rear of the cylinders after the ride (74F ambient) and it showed 214 in the center and 208 on at the outer two cylinders. The radiator temps range from 185 at the top to 170 at the bottom. Are these temps normal/acceptable? My ZRX1200R ran much cooler than the Voyager. I also noticed that the Voyager warms up immediately and within 5 minutes the cylinders are hot! Corrected (90% of odometer) MPG riding mostly on side roads 40-60mph with 2 mile stretches is 31.5mpg.

[Nails]

Corrected (90% of odometer) MPG riding mostly on side roads 40-60mph with 2 mile stretches is 31.5mpg.

I get 50s at those speeds, at distance. Don't know what "2 miles stretches" really tells you.

[triton28]

The coolant should in fact flow along the rubber hose from below the thermostat cap to the expansion tank. This has the effect of relieving the hot coolant, once the pressure increases to 13.5-15 lbs/sq. inch, into a sealed container.
Sometimes though for one reason or another the hose gets pinched by some other item along it's travel. Make sure this hose/tube isn't pinched by blowing through it. You should hear bubbles in the expansion tank if it is clear.
If the hose/tube is clear flowing and you continue to get leakage at the thermostat cap then check the 2 rubber gaskets of the thermostat cap for condition.
Remember, these bikes are at least 20 years old at the very newest so a lot of chicanery can/may have taken place by POs. As well with time and perhaps lack of/poor maintenance some things just wear out, especially rubber items.
Dave

[Nails]

Totally agree.

My return-flow line was completely pinched closed between frame components. God only knows how long it had been that way. Note that the whole idea here is to maintain coolant volume despite thermal changes, by siphoning the hot coolant that blew past the cap back into the engine when it cools. Else the engine can run out of coolant even if the expansion tank looks good. (Ask me how I know.)

Replace all rubber bits as you come on them, most especially hoses, o-rings, and rubber gaskets. Most of the small plastic bits, too. Pretty-much all of that will be rotten by now.

[Vdriveboater]

So I did a cold start just a bit ago with the fill cap off, and after adding a very small amount of coolant I could see some small bubbles coming up, and then it cleared up fast. The level does rise and fall slightly when the engine is revved. I removed the overflow hose from the fill neck and blew into it, but got no airflow (or bubbles in the reservoir). I removed the reservoir and the overflow hose from the reservoir and then blew through it easily, so I know the hose is not pinched or plugged. I'm guessing that it takes more pressure than my lungs can provide to push the air through the hose and into the reservoir. There was some coolant in the hose which ran out when I detached it from the reservoir. The fill cap rubber seals and spring look great but I did order a 1.1 bar replacement cap from Fleabay just in case.

The strangest thing happened and I feel like I'm losing my mind. I can't locate the "threads" that the left side chrome cover bolt attaches to. I could swear that it was secured when I unscrewed it this morning, but there's nothing there now. I thought that there were threads welded to the frame but that's not the case. I searched the gravel in front of my garage where I removed the reservoir for 10 minutes and found nothing. Can someone send a pic of what I apparently lost? I'm over 60 but still have my faculties, at least I think I do . . . . .

[Vdriveboater]

I just realized/recalled that the threads to secure the side cover are integrated into the side cover

[Vdriveboater]

I just realized/recalled that the threads to secure the chrome reservoir side cover are integrated into the aluminum engine side cover (which was also removed)