Which cable is which?

[Chris Cochran]

Which one of these cables (of the ones seen horizontally in this pic) is the return and which on is the vroom? Note: When I click on the pic to see it enlarged the photo flips 180 degrees. So when someone tells me top or bottom, let me know if you are looking at the small pic below, of the larger, flipped version, please.

[Deep Thoughts]

*

[triton28]

Here is the throttle mechanism from a set of carbs I am rehabilitating.
The copper tag is attached to where the nipple of the opening cable would be inserted.
The RED arrow points to where the nipple of the close/return cable would be inserted.
Dave

[Nails]

Just twist the throttle a little and see how the cables move.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this system. The cruise control really complicates the throttle assemblies.

Indeed. As an aside ... the throttle rail has a CC cancel switch that I've argued is totally unnecessary because it doesn't confer any added safety at all. There are several other more effective cancel switches on brakes and the clutch. But I've changed my mind. I don't think this switch is for safety, it's to protect the CC actuator. If you're in cruise and forget it, then when you twist the throttle you're working against the actuator. This switch turns off the actuator (opens the electric clutch that locks the actuator to this whole throttle cable fiasco).

[Chris Cochran]

Thanks to the tribe-at-large for passing on the tribal knowledge on the subject. I asked because in the Tech Tip section it is written by Bruce Kauffman (in reference to removing the carbs) to remove the "closing cable" first. But Bill Overton says simply to remove them both, not stating anything about if there is one to do first.

I don't see much about what difference it makes but...... doesn't hurt to ask.

For NAILS: Both cables move when the throttle is twisted so it's a bit confusing.

[Nails]

I meant, see how they move when you open the throttle versus when you close it. You know what open and close are on the throttle. The carbs (even when when disconnected) rest in the closed position. Seemed pretty straight-forward the last time I was in there trying to figure it out.

[grumpy72]

Nails it is complicated. I love the bike, and hate the cable system.

[4redjf]

I'm problem solving my CC. It will turn on, green light comes on. But pushing the set button will not set it. I've replaced the switch on Front brake, checked and cleaned the switch on the rear brake pedal, and checked the slack on the cruise control box.
it looks like a hugh project to get to the switch on the throttle (carbs).
does anyone have pics and instructions on how to check it to see if it is operating properly? i'm just using a ohm meter to check open /closed with the push of button on the switches.

Thanks, Jeff

[GrandpaDenny]

I'm problem solving my CC. It will turn on, green light comes on. But pushing the set button will not set it. I've replaced the switch on Front brake, checked and cleaned the switch on the rear brake pedal, and checked the slack on the cruise control box.
it looks like a hugh project to get to the switch on the throttle (carbs).
does anyone have pics and instructions on how to check it to see if it is operating properly? i'm just using a ohm meter to check open /closed with the push of button on the switches.

Thanks, Jeff

Push the front brake lever forward a little. Sometimes even new switches aren't quite right. Do you hear two clicks when you pull the lever? There is also a small hole in the bottom of the switch you can spray electrical contact cleaner into. Remember, even new parts for these bikes are at least 20 years old for the most part.

One more dumb question. Are you in 5th gear when you try to engage the cruise control, and doing over 40 mph and less than 85?

[4redjf]

Thanks, yes the new switch is working, clicking.
yes, yesterday tried cruise at 60-75 mph. several times. never would set.
today i've removed the cc switch at the rear brake, cleaned it and checked the setting to work position.
I did glance in to the carbs and could see the side of that switch, but saving that till the last, if after my test run, shortly, is productive.

Figured i would check out the taillight bulbs, but they dont seem to want to twist out of the plastic housing. being careful to not brake something. plan on putting in red blinking led bulbs.
well lets clean it up and test ride it for the cruise check.

oh, do know if it connected but i did notice my turn signals would not cancel by themselves. next problem solving session.

[Nails]

I'm problem solving my CC.

I think prayer is your only hope. I've resurrected my CC at least three times. It's a bedeviled system. Mine hasn't worked for a couple years now; but I'll try again with my big upcoming effort to resurrect the whole dang bike.

does anyone have pics and instructions on how to check it to see if it is operating properly? i'm just using a ohm meter to check open /closed with the push of button on the switches.

I use an ohm meter, too. The manual has a nice trouble-shooting guide. This will be in the Supplemental section -- because the original 1986 XII didn't have CC.

The actuator might be the devil incarnate. See section 2.2 (page 294 of 380 in my PDF). Later, the manual describes CC cancellation switches under each different "system", including brakes. You'll find many CC references in section 14 (Frame), but you really want Section 15 (Electrical) starting on pg 327 of 380. The trouble-shooting guide I mention is Supplemental Section 15-15, Wiring Test, pg 337.

Get a fresh cup of coffee (tea won't work!) and spend some quality time with pgs 327 - 342 of the manual.

BTW, I have a version of the manual that allows word-searching; but I no longer have Adobe, and it's bloated to 82MB. Otherwise, I'd be happy to share. Kinda like the Wizz-Bang App, but mine actually works. (You'll want that nicer schematic, just the same. Referencing viewtopic.php?p=94167#p94167 again.)

[4redjf]

thanks, again.
I have the manuals and pdf files. I sit and read for awhile, then back out to examine things.
Of course, then interrupted by something else and must stop and go deal with that.
Then i'm back trying to figure out where i left off.
The only CC switch i have checked or looked at is the one on the carbs.
I would like to figure out a step by step process to see when the system should have power to certain areas, switches closed or open and when. But with my regular interruptions it difficult to stay on track.
So, i'm stopping on the CC for now and ordered LEDs for brakes , 2 that blink and 2 just LED.
Can only afford so much at one time.
I have a Oil sensor on its way by Saturday and thats another project.
Do you know if anyone has added additional led brake light in between the locks on the trunk?

[Nails]

Do you know if anyone has added additional led brake light in between the locks on the trunk?

No, but I dumped the trunk and installed a fender taillight.

I also hooked up the "Goldwing" light, between the saddlebags. I've been told that the little taillight is bright -- an LED that flashes five times with applying the brakes. But I've had trouble getting the lower taillight to stay functional -- pretty tight space for the plug down there.

[4redjf]

Nice to customize the bike, your way. I had the Voyager (dont remember what year it was, 92 maybe) back in 97. It was blue and black. of course i customized it to suite me and drove it all over FL and then to TN, where i ended up trading it for a 2006 GW.
Well, i'm back with a 96 voyager and its in fairly good condition for 109k mi and so i'm just tackling the major things first , then customize later as i can afford to.
I do need to slide the pass seat farther back and i read about modifications other have done. The guy i bought it from had a nice one piece seat with backrest, but had taken it off and sold it. Wish he had left it on.
I've got the LEDs coming from Amazon tomorrow for the brake lights and hopefully i dont have to switch any of the wiring around.

[GrandpaDenny]

Do you know if anyone has added additional led brake light in between the locks on the trunk?

I did. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08W2 ... UTF8&psc=1 is the last one I had. They don't seem to last that long, though, about a year and then they need replacing. Been through two of them. Before that I had one of those strips that has tail/brake/sequential turn lights but I never got around to hooking up the turn signals.

[4redjf]

Well my 1157 led red strobe lights came today and 2 more Led red 1157.
I put the strobe in the top two brake lights in the luggage box and the other 2 Led's in the bottom middle section. They look nice but will know more when i check it out in the night time.

I need to modify the pass seat to go back alittle more. it pushes me forward.
The bike came with floor boards and heel to toe shifter and i would like to sit back alittle more.
Oh, my oil sensor should be here Saturday. I may be changing it out then.

Trying to figure out why the turn signals don't cancel. and still havent figured out the CC not setting either.
Will post it when i figure these things out.
Thanks

[Conrad]

These are the added led's on the back of my bike. The narrow bar on the trunk is a tail/brake, liscense plate frame is tail/brake plus blinkers/hazards, and the 2 small ones above the lower fender chrome flash (somewhat irregularly) when brake is applied. They were on the bike when i bought it 2 1/2 yrs ago, and so far still work fine, although p.o. left a bit of a wiring rat's nest.
Glad i took these pics, found out i have a brake light out