Checking Air suspension pressures.

[99VoyagerXII]

This is probably a rehash, but I am getting a harsh sound and impact on rough spots in the road. The suspension seems to be moving very well, from what I could see looking down along the forks.
Am I correct in thinking that i may have a shock problem, or does this relate to the air pressure system? When I bought the bike, the dealer said that all pressures had been set, tire and suspension. I see the nipples for adding or removing air, but in reading tech tips and the XII forums, I see where one rider couldn't get the air pump off quickly enough..... plus I believe that I read that only a hand pump should be used. My pump doesn't have a gauge and does anyone know where I can get an accurate low pressure 'tire-gauge'!

[doug of so fla]

Just about any air gauge will read low psi, I prefer digital ones that don't let you guess and you can calibrate it. On ANY new to me purchased vehicle I always and highly recommend "changing all fluids," and air and set things where I want them and write items down for future ref. I have always used a air compresser to fill shocks, Just a QUICK!!! (less than a second !!!) phhtt of air then check it. No Problem. In a brand new M/C with SHOWA shocks I would change the fluid out to something that is known to work for your load. Used definetly change it out. Doing your M/C this way you get to know it and are confident that you can handle anything that comes along. NEVER trust that someone (especially a dealer)!!!!!" just did everything on it. EVER!!!!

[99VoyagerXII]

Thanks for the reply Doug. I rode yesterday with a high school friend, he on his 86 GoldWing, and I on my XII. Really enjoyed riding the XII, and this was my first good long ride on main and back roads, and I'm learning more about this bike all of the time, and appreciating what it offers. Reading all of the tips, I see that I'm going to be busy this winter. This bike is a 1999, and is just coming up on 22,000, so I feel that not only has it not been ridden, but also that the maintenance probably wasn't kept up like it would be on a ridden bike..........

[voyager55]

Put in Front progressive fork springs and Rear progressive non air shocks. You won't believe the difference it will make. Ride, Handling,etc it will really ride much better

[Mr Jensee]

Put in Front progressive fork springs and Rear progressive non air shocks. You won't believe the difference it will make. Ride, Handling,etc it will really ride much better

I found the Voyager's standard suspension extremely soft. I couldn't keep the right amount of air in either end of the bike. First I replaced the fork springs with Progressives and later with the rear Shocks. The bike became a joy to ride. Air suspensions are very over rated.

[99VoyagerXII]

So, that will make the back non air-ride, but what about the front? Will it retain the air-ride system?

[voyager55]

You can add air still, but the springs are designed so you shouldn't need any air in the fork..

http://www.abbikeboard.com/jeff/spring/spring.html

[debron]

I use a "no-loss" air pump made by progressive similar to this one on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Suspe ... B000WJEORY
Note that the photo shows it goes up to 450lbs ( They use the same "stock" photo in several of the different Progressive air pumps!) but it actually goes only to 60lbs, perfect for shocks and forks. A "no-loss" pump is important for shocks and forks because of the extremely low volume of air they take. With any other kind of pump you lose too much air when you remove it and hear the "phssst."

Progressive springs in the front are definitely the way to go, a true upgrade. If you do the work yourself, you can do the whole job for around $100.

It depends on your personal biases and point of view whether Progressive shocks in the rear are a true upgrade or just the easy (but $$) way out. Many here report much improved handling and ride after switching to Progressives, and that's probably true but it still won't be a sport bike! It's true because they were running the original OEM oil in their rear shocks, the oil having never been changed since the bike came off the assembly line. That is the problem. The oil in your '99 is now 15/16 years old. The original oil was of low quality to begin with. Replace the oil in your rear shocks with a high quality synthetic and you will get a performance and ride quality equal to the Progressives. How do I know? Because I've had two XII's, one with Progressives in the rear and the other I changed the oil in the stock shocks. The new oil brought the performance of my stock shocks up to as good if not better than the Progressives. Still, the advantages of replacing your stock shocks with Progressives are two-fold - First, it's easier and faster to just switch them out than change the oil. Second, you no longer have to deal with air pressure if you find that a burden. I don't but some do.

If you decide to change the oil in your rear shocks NorCal Voyagers sell a "how-to" DVD for $10 running you through the process step-by-step.

[cushman eagle]

I found a way for me to get the shock and fork pressure where I want, is to use my small hand held air storage tank.I pump the tank up to 30 pounds, pump up the shocks,bleed the tank to 4 pound and pump up the forks.I use the tank around the house and yard,and it makes an easy way for me to get the pressures I want.

[debron]

I found a way for me to get the shock and fork pressure where I want, is to use my small hand held air storage tank.I pump the tank up to 30 pounds, pump up the shocks,bleed the tank to 4 pound and pump up the forks.I use the tank around the house and yard,and it makes an easy way for me to get the pressures I want.

[99VoyagerXII]

I'm thinking that I will order the air pump. If I keep air/oil rear shocks, then I can adjust for any different loads and experiment with pressures on the front shocks, and it looks like progressives for the front are definitely in the future! I haven't put many miles on this bike yet, but I don't recall it making any harsh noises on my 25 mile ride home when I bought it....maybe the sign of a leak in the system? The pump can help diagnose low or loss of pressure in front or rear, and should be handy in the future.
The radio seems to work fine, since I figured out that .....1) both mutes must be off......2) the antenna needs to be tight.
The radio cover plate,part #14024-1326 with the opening in it, has a broken catch on one side, and will not latch onto the radio. Would this indicate that there is something wrong with the mounting of the radio?
As tightly as the outer cover , part #14024-1203 locks onto the above piece so tightly, I wonder how you are supposed to remove it. It seems way too tight to remove without breaking something!
The stop switch work well now, thanks to a good cleaning....
This bike starts quickly.... but keeping it running for the first minute takes monitoring with the choke, at least for the first 30 seconds or so till the choke turns itself off. That and the improved idle is better, but I believe that I should get to know the carbs better. Is this bike supposed to idle like a sewing machine? If it is, then it has a way to go yet....

I Thank All who are helping me to understand and diagnose my bike, but also for the helpful hints and advice. All is Much Appreciated....

[debron]

The radio cover plate,part #14024-1326 with the opening in it, has a broken catch on one side, and will not latch onto the radio. Would this indicate that there is something wrong with the mounting of the radio?
As tightly as the outer cover , part #14024-1203 locks onto the above piece so tightly, I wonder how you are supposed to remove it. It seems way too tight to remove without breaking something!....

I didn't look up the part number but if it's the bezel around the radio face it is a weak spot. One of the catches broke on my first XII and now that bezel it sitting on the side of I-5 somewhere in northern California!

[99VoyagerXII]

I found the outer cover under the saddle bag insert, thought that it looked cool, and decided to put it in place. Two miles later and enjoying running it through the gears, I was shocked when both pieces, bezel and cover hit me in the stomach....fortunately, I was able to grab them. Both pieces went back into the saddlebag!! Still don't understand the value of a cover that I can't get off!

[doug of so fla]

The radio bezel and rain cover have always been a problem with the XII. I fixed all 3 of mine the same way and it worked very well. I filed the catches on the ends of the ears on the inside. Picture this take your index fingers and bend them like a hook, the part where your finger print is, That is the where I filed on the latch hook. The latches are not quite long enough to grasp where they are supposed to, so if you file just a 1/32 or so they seem to be able to catch the edge they are supposed to. Some have broken the latch trying to make them work or got broken when they fall off, many have just silicon glued them all the way around to the radio. so they stay on.
One thing I did to the plastic rain cover trays is put a piece of velcro on the front on each end & 0ne long one down on the outside edge and matching pieces on the shelf in the tour pack, put a piece of a ruler with velcro on it between the brackets on the rear edge of the pak to make it flush makes for a handy tray for small stuff in the pak. Then you always know where it is when you need it. You can also make a the shelf to hold more by fastening a 90 degree piece of plastic or alum to the two bolts on the shelf to hold the smaller items. Winters coming so some easy projects!!.

[grumpin]

I'm thinking that I will order the air pump. If I keep air/oil rear shocks, then I can adjust for any different loads and experiment with pressures on the front shocks, and it looks like progressives for the front are definitely in the future! I haven't put many miles on this bike yet, but I don't recall it making any harsh noises on my 25 mile ride home when I bought it....maybe the sign of a leak in the system? The pump can help diagnose low or loss of pressure in front or rear, and should be handy in the future.
The radio seems to work fine, since I figured out that .....1) both mutes must be off......2) the antenna needs to be tight.
The radio cover plate,part #14024-1326 with the opening in it, has a broken catch on one side, and will not latch onto the radio. Would this indicate that there is something wrong with the mounting of the radio?
As tightly as the outer cover , part #14024-1203 locks onto the above piece so tightly, I wonder how you are supposed to remove it. It seems way too tight to remove without breaking something!
The stop switch work well now, thanks to a good cleaning....
This bike starts quickly.... but keeping it running for the first minute takes monitoring with the choke, at least for the first 30 seconds or so till the choke turns itself off. That and the improved idle is better, but I believe that I should get to know the carbs better. Is this bike supposed to idle like a sewing machine? If it is, then it has a way to go yet....

I Thank All who are helping me to understand and diagnose my bike, but also for the helpful hints and advice. All is Much Appreciated....

How does the choke turn itself off?

[99VoyagerXII]

How does the choke turn itself off?

It just slowly releases to full off........... Maybe I'm just lucky, seems most folks are reporting having the opposite problem, not being able to get it on!

[voyager55]

Sounds like the cable needs adjustment. It shouldn't do that

[grumpin]

How does the choke turn itself off?

It just slowly releases to full off........... Maybe I'm just lucky, seems most folks are reporting having the opposite problem, not being able to get it on!

OK, thanks! That's where I'm at, a little stiff on my cable.