Universal Joint Question
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Universal Joint Question
Hi,
I recently picked up a 1993 Voyager XII with 24,000 miles. I have been slowly going through the bike replacing all the important things like fluids, progressive front springs, rear wheel bearings and brakes.
While on the center stand I notice a bit of play when in gear and the motor off. If I take the wheel while in gear and move it back and forth I get quite a bit of play. I know the newer models have universal joints but my question is does this year have one as well? Should there be that much play. I would say 2 - 2 1/2 inches of play. I have been looking for a post on the replacement process but have not found very much.
Thanks for your time.
Trevor
I recently picked up a 1993 Voyager XII with 24,000 miles. I have been slowly going through the bike replacing all the important things like fluids, progressive front springs, rear wheel bearings and brakes.
While on the center stand I notice a bit of play when in gear and the motor off. If I take the wheel while in gear and move it back and forth I get quite a bit of play. I know the newer models have universal joints but my question is does this year have one as well? Should there be that much play. I would say 2 - 2 1/2 inches of play. I have been looking for a post on the replacement process but have not found very much.
Thanks for your time.
Trevor
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Re: Universal Joint Question
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=25F882B6 ... D0CA8D!173" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I'm no mechanic, but with only 24,000 miles on your bike I think the U joint would be fine.
I'm no mechanic, but with only 24,000 miles on your bike I think the U joint would be fine.
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Re: Universal Joint Question
It shifts very strange especially when down shifting. It feels like there is to much slop in the drive line which leads me to believe its the u-joint. I am hoping someone familiar with replacing the u-joint could chime in and offer some"things to check"
- Avidrider62
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Re: Universal Joint Question
I highly doubt you have a joint issue. These transmissions have straight gears, not helical. That's means more clunkiness. Staight cut allows the transmissions to last longer. The boot between the trans and pivot arm (chrome cover). Look for rustyness color. Rusty, possible u joint bad. A few of us have extra's, OEM ones. Bad u joint symtoms, unusual vibrations.
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Re: Universal Joint Question
If the u joint are going bad you will fill a vibration through the left foot peg or floor board. There is play in the drive line and that is what is called backlash and that comes from when the ring and pinion gear are set up and on a voyager you have two of them, one at the rear wheel and one where the front final drive comes off of the engine to make the 90 degree turns. All ring and pinions will have this and with two of them you will have more movement. Seeing how the u joints don't have that much of a angle change it, they last for a long time. I have 55,000 miles on mine and still running strong. Now that is not to say that there are not some bad ones out there but the only way to really know is to remove it and see if there is any bind on all 4 connecting points. Even with a chain and sprocket you have a lot of play and that is just taking up the play in the transmission. So now take up the play in the transmission, add in the back lash from the front and rear final drives and yes there is play.
I really don't see how this could affect the shifting of the bike unless you are not using the clutch, because when you use the clutch you are disengaging the drive line from the engine.
I really don't see how this could affect the shifting of the bike unless you are not using the clutch, because when you use the clutch you are disengaging the drive line from the engine.
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Jim & Karol
2003 Voyager XII
IBA #57976
IBA 1500 miles in 24 hours
IBA 1500 miles in 36 hours
IBA 1000 miles in 24 hours
It's not the destination, It's the ride
Jim & Karol
2003 Voyager XII
IBA #57976
IBA 1500 miles in 24 hours
IBA 1500 miles in 36 hours
IBA 1000 miles in 24 hours
It's not the destination, It's the ride
- ekap1200
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Re: Universal Joint Question
There are many parts to the driveline. All having some play, and the rubber dampeners in the wheel itself will in time harden up and give some play. The splines on the wheel are softer metal than the ring-gear splines and will wear somewhat giving even another added area for play in the driveline. Add all that play in each part and it is quite a bit. Shifting issues are usually rider caused, or there is a problem with your hyd-clutch fluid. Try shifting different until you get to be able to shift where the bike wants you to shift. Its like shifting a tractor-trailer, it goes into gear when it wants not when you want it to. If it is the u-joint , beware of the atvworks. I purchased one to see if it meets the specs of the OEM. And its close but no cigar...... And any u-joint that has a grease fitting will be cross drilled making it MUCH weaker than the Kawasaki one used. Talk to Carl Leo. He will not recommend the ATV one. The one from the Kaw prarie 4wheeler is the same casting number and dimensions to within .0001 . As you see from this pic the one on the left is OEM and the one on the right is the crap one. It is very close but not a perfect fit and will go together much harder. I had called AVT on this one and they told me the only reason they listed it was that other customers had told them it works. The one from the Prarie is 100.00 dollars without the clips . So make darn sure you need a joint before jumping the gun on this one. Also these bikes shift harder the closer to a needed oil change they get. Kawasaki never offered a rpl u-joint but rather the drive shaft assm. It can be tricky to replace the u-joint and worse if you don't have the right equipment . Not that a large hammer and vice gripe's can't do but that is not how a pro-mechanic would do it. And don't add more grease in the cup of the joint, For as you install the cup there is no place for that EXTRA grease to go and it will push out the seal in the cup to escape and the cup won't go in all the way..
I read that you have replaced the ? rear wheel bearings. if so make sure you don't over torque the axle nut.. Also if you do decide to remove the rear end again and on the final drive you find there is some play at the pinion, don't be overly concerned. they are NOT tapered bearings and will have some play in them.
I read that you have replaced the ? rear wheel bearings. if so make sure you don't over torque the axle nut.. Also if you do decide to remove the rear end again and on the final drive you find there is some play at the pinion, don't be overly concerned. they are NOT tapered bearings and will have some play in them.
"Its not bad if you don't know something, but when you don't know you don't know; That's when your in trouble". Joe Place 1912-2008 (my grandfather)
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Re: Universal Joint Question
Adding one more thing to look at. Ensure the clutch feels good. You should feel, in your pull of the lever, 1/2 way thru, a slightly different feeling in your fingers. Kind of like a step in the pulling. Kinda hard, then half way, a tad easier. Make sense? I noticed that on the two I own. I rebuilt one, still no avail. I replaced it and it seems great now.
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Re: Universal Joint Question
Thank you for the excellent feedback. I understand what you mean by find the happy shifting spot as sometimes I hear loud clunk when shifting from 1st to 2nd and other time, when shifting slowly i hear nothing at all. My mind is at ease now knowing that the drive line play is normal and to be expected.
Thanks again for the feedback, much appreciated.
Thanks again for the feedback, much appreciated.
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Re: Universal Joint Question
I've been reading this string of comments and would also like to ask a question. I was thinking that I had a U Joint problem. My symptoms are that when I'm cruising along typically and have to get off the throttle and then when I go back to throttle I get a clunk like the drive shaft is trying to catch up. My fear is that this play isn't doing anything for the wheel splines? Is this a symptom of a bad u joint? I am going to take it for a ride tonight to see if I get any of the vibration through the foot peg as mentioned. I'd like to say I'd feel any strange vibrations, but maybe I've just grown accustomed to the ride of my 92? There was mention of a u joint from a Kawi Prairie 4 wheeler......any specific part number we're after? I don't want to really take the back end of my bike apart again...but if this will help with the slop, it's a no brainer! Any thoughts??
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Re: Universal Joint Question
Gene,ekap1200,gave a very good description of the number of sources of lash in his post above.Feeling the lash take up as you feed power back in from a power reduction is normall :thmup:Did you grease the splines with a heavy grease?Jeff Gordon wrote:I've been reading this string of comments and would also like to ask a question. I was thinking that I had a U Joint problem. My symptoms are that when I'm cruising along typically and have to get off the throttle and then when I go back to throttle I get a clunk like the drive shaft is trying to catch up. My fear is that this play isn't doing anything for the wheel splines? Is this a symptom of a bad u joint? I am going to take it for a ride tonight to see if I get any of the vibration through the foot peg as mentioned. I'd like to say I'd feel any strange vibrations, but maybe I've just grown accustomed to the ride of my 92? There was mention of a u joint from a Kawi Prairie 4 wheeler......any specific part number we're after? I don't want to really take the back end of my bike apart again...but if this will help with the slop, it's a no brainer! Any thoughts??
'99 Voyager VXII,'58 Cushman Eagle
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Re: Universal Joint Question
If you are worried about the splines remove the wheel and check the quality of the rubber cushion in the hub. If they are hard, replace them. If the cushions go the splines will tear themselves apart.
For Voyager XII Manuals click the link below.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ao3K0Ai2gvglgS3l7J4pBJrjfBhc
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ao3K0Ai2gvglgS3l7J4pBJrjfBhc