At 47000 miles

[grod]

Hi out in Voyager Land. I have a new question for Me. AT 47,000 MILES ON MY ZG1200B16 I would like to switch to full synthetic oil. I switched from regular oil at approx. 32000 miles to partial syn. at the suggestion of my then mechanic. His thought at that time was to use the partial syn. for 2 changes (6000 miles) and then go to full syn. oil. {The reason for switching to syn. oil was to be able to go to 5000 miles before changing the oil.} However it has been 5 changes (15000 miles) - my total mileage now is 47000 miles - that I have been using the partial syn. oil. My question is can I now go to the full syn. oil without negatively affecting my machine? I travel at high speeds generally 80 mph or above at extended miles/times fully loaded. I have received a lot of positive feedback in the past. Looking forward to an informed suggestion.

[Jim Loiselle]

Carl had me switch to Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40 and it has been great! I change oil once a year (about 10,000 miles) and I have we rode in the heat to last years AVA Rally from Indy what no problems! I have well over 50,000 on my 86 Voyager with Voyager trike kit.

[David Muhl]

I went to Shell Rotella t6 5W 40 at around 50,000 miles on my 86 as per Carls advice, I just turned 105,000 with no problems Change every 10,000 miles and replace filter at 5,000 miles

1986 Voyager XII
with Tow Pac trike kit

[Skibou]

I've been using Mobil 1 for several years, and have had no problems. I also use it in my cars and motorhome. It seems to work well in all of them. I just changed to Rotella on the Voyager about 350 miles ago because of the recommendations on this forum, and the considerable price difference. We'll see what a full season looks like, but so far so good.

[jn1200]

I switched to synthetic at 2000 miles on my X11. It doesn't matter when you switch.

[kjsett]

Carl had me switch to Shell Rotella T-6 5W-40 and it has been great! I change oil once a year (about 10,000 miles) and I have we rode in the heat to last years AVA Rally from Indy what no problems! I have well over 50,000 on my 86 Voyager with Voyager trike kit.

Hummm. 10,000 miles? From what I have read, you change syn oil mainly to renew additives and remove impurities. Syn oil doesn't break down like traditional oil because of the higher resistance to the heat generated by the motor required to accomplish that effect. I have been doing twice a year changes on both my 4 wheelers (car and Cummins diesel PU) just for that reason (instead of once a year). Our commute has been less than 24miles for the last year or so, so our mileage on the vehicles isn't that high right now per year. We are having to move our office (where is unknown as yet) this summer, so our mileage may go up dramatically.
Anyway, I hadn't heard the 10k from Carl (maybe just missed it), but will consider it for my wife's bike (97 Kawa VN800a-water cooled also) as she doesn't ride as much as I do and it probably will only do the 5-6k per year anyway. The only reason I do hers now is the oil industry still says "3months" or "miles" across the board on vehicles (like the oil has a calendar built in).
Again, I really do enjoy reading the opinions and stories on this forum - thanks for keeping it going.
Personal note, I will be signing up for Reno, but my wife has said she can't make it (activities requiring her attention during that 2week period). Hope to see many of you there.
Ken

[debron]

I've been using Rotella T dino (blue jug,) changing oil at 3,000 (or there about) which I thought was Carl's recommendation. Maybe I should switch to T-6??

[SgtSlag]

The 3 month recommendation is due to acid by-products from combustion, turning the oil acidic. All engine oils are made with base additives, to counteract the acid build-up, over time.

To really know how long is long enough for your engine oil, an analysis is necessary. They will check the oil's remaining viscosity (they tend to break down from a multi-viscosity product to the lowest viscosity in its initial range, so typically down to 10 weight, when worn out).

To know how the acidity of the oil is, over time, you typically have to pay extra for a Total Base Number test.

Riding conditions vary, as do other things, so to know for sure, with your bike, and your riding style, oil testing/analysis is required, to be certain.

Synthetics don't have Viscosity Index Improvers (VII's), as they are not necessary: they achieve multi-viscosity without them being added into the oil, due to the Class IV base oils used. Conventional oils require VII's in order to achieve multi-viscosity abilities, which are long molecule chains -- these long molecules get chewed up by the transmission gears, in bikes, reverting back to the lowest viscosity of the base oil.

Changing any oil every 10,000 miles might be safe, but to be certain, analysis is required. Search the Internet for more information: oil anaylysis; Viscosity Index Improvers; oil acidity; etc. Cheers!

[debron]

TMI, Sarge, but interesting! However, anal as I am, I won't be testing my oil, just going with standard "recommendations." Too much trouble, too much $$$, too much.....

I may switch to the T-6 because of the loss of viscosity issues with dino oil, but as I recall the T-6 is not true synthetic, but rather very highly processed dino oil, the extensive processing of which allows it to be classified "synthetic."

[SgtSlag]

You are correct: T6 is not a true synthetic, but it sure acts like one! I ran it in my car, left it sit in the ramp all day, in January, with the temperature around 0 F. Came out, started it up, after work, and it spun over like it was 80 F, in July! When running conventional oils, it would barely turn over under these conditions, and it would sound terrible for the first five minutes, as the oil was probably a thick paste in the engine, and the pan... Great stuff, even if it isn't a true synthetic.

I've run T6 in my bikes for a couple of years. Love it. Haven't dropped the money on analysis yet, either. Thought about it long, and hard, but decided to just change the T6 oil once per year, and be done with it (only a 6-8 month riding season in tropical SE Minnesota, typically less than 5,000 miles for us). Oil and filter are cheap, engine seizures are not... Still interested in the analysis for what it indicates about the health of the engine, more than what it says about the oil, itself. They look for metals, which indicate wear and tear, internally, which would normally require tear down to reveal. Cheers!

[kjsett]

You are correct: T6 is not a true synthetic, but it sure acts like one! I ran it in my car, left it sit in the ramp all day, in January, with the temperature around 0 F. Came out, started it up, after work, and it spun over like it was 80 F, in July! When running conventional oils, it would barely turn over under these conditions, and it would sound terrible for the first five minutes, as the oil was probably a thick paste in the engine, and the pan... Great stuff, even if it isn't a true synthetic.

I've run T6 in my bikes for a couple of years. Love it. Haven't dropped the money on analysis yet, either. Thought about it long, and hard, but decided to just change the T6 oil once per year, and be done with it (only a 6-8 month riding season in tropical SE Minnesota, typically less than 5,000 miles for us). Oil and filter are cheap, engine seizures are not... Still interested in the analysis for what it indicates about the health of the engine, more than what it says about the oil, itself. They look for metals, which indicate wear and tear, internally, which would normally require tear down to reveal. Cheers!

As I ride year round in up to 110f heat, I will probably continue with semi-annual changes, whatever the mileage (up to 8-10k max). Thanks for the info - Ken

[gearheadfla]

Myself, I change every 3000 to 3500 miles, I use the Rotella dino, Old stockcar racing habits are hard to break, but then I changed that every 500 miles, like said before, oil and filters are cheap compared to engine swaps. I have found the my oil is just only a tick darker that I drained out than the new oil I refilled with telling me the inside of my engine is pretty clean inside, and that can't be a bad thing. BTW, I ride everyday, matter of fact, I put the Battery Tender on my cage.