Well, Tony, all the parts are here! But,.....CRAP! Was hoping it might be a bit more of a bolt-in than this shows, but still not as bad as I had feared earlier. The sizes of the pressed-steel swing arm parts are close enough to make it pretty easy to mate up the pieces I need from each.
In the pic, the ZN1300 SA is on the left, and the KZ1300 SA is on the right. As you can see, the splined coupler on the KZ is much larger diameter than the ZN's. Also, the bolt patterns on the flanges are not the same, nor close enough to fudge a few thou'.
Sooooo,.....will cut both flanges off at about the red line in the pic, leaving a bit more on the KZ's for trimming to fit. Forget the driveshaft for now. Once the flange is welded back on to make the final drive axle hole line up with the other fork end, the wheel goes back on to determine the length of the axle spacer. Then the brake caliper will be fit using a new bracket and brace-bar. Yes, the ZN's caliper fits well over the KZ's rotor! Just not sure if the ZN's stock caliper mount will position it correctly over the KZ's rotor when all is said and done. We'll see.
When the final drive and wheel fit well, the right shock lower mount adapter will be made.
Once the final drive and wheel have been mated up to the ZN's swing arm, and it all fits well to the bike and shock, the driveshafts can be cut and slowly fitted for correct length, then welded and re-tempered. A bit of sandblasting and powdercoating, re-assembly and out for testing.
I will warn you, though, that the driveshafts are forgings, and as such I won't be able to regain 100% of their metalurgical properties (strength, toughness, hardness, etc.), so all-out drop-the-hammer drag racing and speed shifts won't be recommended at all. Full power once the clutch is engaged will be fine! Just no full power shock loads! Guess that means the kid won't get to ride it, huh?
Just for your general interest, to re-join the shafts I use a low-temp method of Mig welding. Some might call it stitch welding, but I just do spot, or very short bits of bead at a time, giving time in between for cooling. The ends are tapered to almost 1/4" first. Once all welding is done, the area is ground smooth and a perforated sleeve (slipped on before welding begins) is positioned over the welded area and welded in place, keeping it all cool as welding proceeds. This all happens in a welding lathe. Then it all goes to the foundry for slow re-tempering to get it back as close as possible to original hardness. That's all this simpleton can do!
I had a 1980 KZ rear wheel ordered, but they said they couldn't find it in their inventory! WHAT? I didn't like the looks of the rest of their wheels, so the search goes on for the wheel. BTW, they are 17" wheels. Might be a bit harder to find a larger tire to fit it. Got no other options using that 1980 KZ final drive. Drives and wheels are pretty much matched together by design. FWIW, I did see a guy who offered a rear hub for the KZ1300 that laces up a separate rim with wire spokes!!! Gotta be a modified stock wheel hub drilled for spokes.
