Voyager Suspension Mods

[Marty in Texas]

David,
You also may want to add the Super Brace to the front end of your XII. I have it on mine and it does make a difference. I also have Progressive Springs up front with 20 wt oil in forks, and Progressive 412 HD out back set to second preload. I ride solo all the time because my wife has her own bike. I also had the same problem as you with my front forks staying down after stopping then poppong up when I took off. My problem was mine originally had the chrome rotor covers on it, and I removed them. I did not realize the the spacer on the right side had been replaced with a shorter one for the pie plates, and the speed drive on left had been shaved down by a like amount. The speedo drive failed so it was replaced, and I changed the spacer back to correct one for no rotor covers. Also when I tighten everything down I do the Super Brace 1st crossing tightening the bolts. I then make sure the axle is all the way in by tapping on the right end with a rubber mallet. I tighten the pinch bolt 1st then the axle nut spinning the front wheel at the same time so to make it still turns freely.
I was not aware of any other mods for the forks ie the Gold Valve Emulators you mentioned. I am pretty happy with way my XII rides and handles now, but it is definitely something to think about. BTW I use no air in the front forks and I completely removed the air lines for the rear shocks. The lines are still there for the front I just then tucked inside the fairing using the hole where it would come out for something else.
Marty

[David (N. Alabama)]

Well, my new suspension is on the bike. It sits higher off the ground now. I won't be rubbing the floorboards like I have in the past. Since I have never ridden a Voyager with a progressive front spring and heavy fork oil, I can't compare with the gold valve emulators and springs by 'Racetech'. The bike does handle the bumps better. I still have that nagging deceleration wobble below 40 mph if I take my hands off the bars. I can't feel any looseness in the steering head.

I need to take my wife for a ride and see if she notices any difference.

[Marty in Texas]

I still have that nagging deceleration wobble below 40 mph if I take my hands off the bars. I can't feel any looseness in the steering head.

I didn't feel any looseness in mine either, But after I tightened maybe a 1/4 turn the low speed wobble went away.

The tighten procedure is fairly easy:
Put a jack under the motor with bike on the center stand to take the weight off the front forks.
Loosen the all of the pinch bolts on the triple trees on both forks.
I also loosened the axle pich bolt and axles nut. As well as the Super Brace on the front forks.
I took the handle bars off in order to be able to see the nut.
If I remeber correctly I loosened the top nut then used a hammer and big flat blade screwdriver to drive bottom nut tighter.
Then tightened everything back up.
Triple trees first, Super Brace, axle pinch bolt then axle nut.
Took it down off the jack, and put the handle bars back on. Took it for a ride, or no more wobble.
Started doing it again as my front tire was wearing out, after tire was replaced it disappeared.
Marty

[David (N. Alabama)]

Thanks Marty, I will try adjusting a 1/4 turn and see what happens. I widened the bars tow notches and with the bike sitting higher I don't think I will scrape the floorboards anytime soon. The suspension is definitely handling the bumps better. Once I tighten the steering head a little, I will have to see if there is any difference on the larger hits from road imperfections.

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

...Triple trees first, Super Brace, axle pinch bolt then axle nut.

I think it would be best to tighten the axle nut first, then the axle pinch bolt. I take a phillips screwdriver and put it through the hole on the axle on the opposite end of the nut to hold the axle from possibly turning. Tighten it, then the pinch bolt, otherwise, if done the other way around, the axle may not be tightened properly.

[Marty in Texas]

...Triple trees first, Super Brace, axle pinch bolt then axle nut.

I think it would be best to tighten the axle nut first, then the axle pinch bolt. I take a phillips screwdriver and put it through the hole on the axle on the opposite end of the nut to hold the axle from possibly turning. Tighten it, then the pinch bolt, otherwise, if done the other way around, the axle may not be tightened properly.

Thanks Gary. I will try that. The reason I did that was a hold over after I removed the rotor covers and I had the wrong spacer in there. When I tightened axle nut first it would squeeze the forks together and cause the front wheel to bind. Also the forks would not move freely up & down since they were not parallel to each other. I now have the correct spacer & speedo drive. I have just always done it that way and never had a problem. I usually don't tighten the axle nut all that tight since the pinch bolt is what is actually holding it in.
Marty

[David (N. Alabama)]

I tightened up the steering head nut less than 1/8 of a turn and that took care of my deceleration wobble. Who would have thought only that much would do the trick.

[Bonsi]

David,
I have read the post on your suspension issues. It has now been a few months since you upgraded you suspension.

How has it improved you Voyager?

Thanks, Craig

[David (N. Alabama)]

Hi Craig,

The bike is a whole different machine now. I don't even notice I am going 70 mph now, where before the bike was effected by every irregularity in the road and also the wind. The Mrs. is more comfortable on the back of the bike. The bike holds the turns better and with the increased clearance I don't fear scraping the floorboards. Braking is much better. I was really thinking about getting rid of the bike, but with the new suspension, it is a whole different beast now.

[Nathan (South Carolina)]

Of course I don't have one of those pumps with the gauge built in. I use a little hand pump

David,
the fellow I bought my XII from showed me the pump he uses and it's one of those tiny hand w/gauge units. He swears that they are perfect for the job for the suspension. I have looked locally and not found anything remotely close but on line I have found a unit. Runs for $21 +s/h, search for " 62004021 /BMP-18 " on site http://www.bikesomewhere.com/
Very light weight because it's built for bicyclist and compact also.

Scott,
I use the Topeak Pocket Shock DXG Bicycle Pump,TPSMB-DX shown on your referenced website that is very accurate. The pump has a Schrader check valve that prevents air from escaping when unscrewing the nozzle. Small and compact for easy storage in a saddlebag.

[Mr. Green Genes]

I used these on my Concours. I am heavy, I ride dirt bikes and I like a solid/stiff fealing suspension. I like my bike set up so that during hard braking and/or the road surface goes to Hell, I still have travel left. The Sonic springs are not progressive, just heavier. I do not want any part of 4" of travel to be light. Air is progressive. I also go heavy on fork fluid viscosity.

http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/ind ... d1e199860b

The price is right.

It's all personal preference and my experience has (up to now) been with the Concours.