Installing Driving lights

[tregal16]

ok, I searched the board for tips on installing driving lights but haven't found the answer (if someone points out a thread then I must not be very good at searching). Anyway, I am installing these lights, using a switch and relay. I want to get power from my headlight to the switch, then use the switch to throw the relay, there in lies my question. IF I tap power from the low beam at the headlight will that cause issues with the reserve lighting module? Does anyone have a better location to get the power, I am not sure if I can take it from the BL/O wire at the reserve unit or not. I need the driving lights to be operational with the low beams only (state law) so let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Terry

[tregal16]

in your scenario I would not use a switch at all then. I was mainly concerned with tapping the power near the headlight (after the reserve lighting device). I have installed the lights as per your way temporarily, as I don't want to leave it unswitched in case I run into issues (alt. etc...). But thank you for your comments, I appreciate it.
Terry

[Chris near Kansas City]

Do you want the lights on all the time, or do you want them to be able to be switched on and off, only while the low beam is on per your state law?

First, I can't recall if the low beam turns off when the high is on, so we'll assume that is the case.

If you want to be able to switch it on and off only when the low beam is on, you'll need to tie into the low beam feed, and run that to your switch. The other side of the switch will run to the trigger side of the relay. The other side of the trigger goes to ground. With the headlight on, you should be able to flip the switch (either the high beam or the driving light switch) on and off and hear the relay clicking. You would not need heavy wire for this, since the trigger side draws very minimal power to energize the coil.

The power side would need a heavy enough wire to handle whatever lights you install. Run a feed from the positive side of the battery, through a fuse, and then to one of the terminals on the contact side of the relay. Run another wire of the same gauge from the other terminal on the contact side to the lights.

Make sure the lights have a good ground.

With this setup, the relay will only be energized if the headlight AND the switch is on. If you wanted the extra lights on all the time (unless the high beam is on), then leave the switch out and run the trigger wire from the low beam feed to the trigger side of the relay. This way, as soon as the headlight comes on, the relay is triggered and the power is sent to the lights. If you do it this way, be mindful of your voltage level, especially at idle, dependent of course, to the wattage or size of whatever lights you are adding. If you are adding big hulking lights and do a lot of in-town riding, you may want to add a voltmeter if you don't already, so you can monitor what's going on. You may need to bump the idle up to around 1,000 or so, if this becomes an issue for you.

Chris

edit: the amount of draw to trigger a relay should have no impact on the reserve lighting device if you decided to tie into the low beam headlight feed.

[TaiwanJohn]

If you want to switch the lights anytime, there are a couple of accessory leads behind the headlight. I the hot one is brown, the ground is black/yellow.

[Chris near Kansas City]

Taiwan John is correct, but then you have to remember to turn off the extra lights when you hit the high beam, that is, if you're going to obey the law in your neck of the woods. If you decide to go this route, I suggest using the accessory feed as the trigger for the relay.

[Furchin]

Terry, you state that you want to install driving lights. Not sure what wattage you are planning on using but this is my two cents. Driving lights are usually considered 55 watts. Why don't you use 35 watt bulbs and have them now considered as fog lights. Shouldn't have to worry about whether they are on or off at any time.

[tregal16]

Well, I finally got the lights installed, I had bought walmart specials (they are 55 watts) so that is what I used. I went to Ollies and bought a chrome "towel bar" it is 7/8 " OD so that fit perfectly inside the crash bars. I mounted the lights using quick clamps, I still have a little "house keeping" to do to the wires. I installed a switch beside the radio fader control so I could switch them of if I need to. I tapped the low beam circuit for the power to the switch which engages the relay, got the main power from the battery using a fused wire. So everything should be good...I did notice that at an idle, I have about 12.3 volts so I may have to rethink my 55 watt lights and go with some LED's if I can find something I am satisfied with. Thanks again for all the help from the forum.

[David (N. Alabama)]

Well, I finally got the lights installed, I had bought walmart specials (they are 55 watts) so that is what I used. I went to Ollies and bought a chrome "towel bar" it is 7/8 " OD so that fit perfectly inside the crash bars. I mounted the lights using quick clamps, I still have a little "house keeping" to do to the wires. I installed a switch beside the radio fader control so I could switch them of if I need to. I tapped the low beam circuit for the power to the switch which engages the relay, got the main power from the battery using a fused wire. So everything should be good...I did notice that at an idle, I have about 12.3 volts so I may have to rethink my 55 watt lights and go with some LED's if I can find something I am satisfied with. Thanks again for all the help from the forum.

Check the voltage a operating RPMs. Unless of course you sit at idle a lot, but if you do, you need to find another way to get to your destination.

LEDs will help others see you, but won't illuminate much.

[tregal16]

actually most of my driving is at highway speeds, I did rev it up to about 3000 RPM's the voltage came up to 13.3 or so, but I will keep an eye on it. I guess I could look into getting the ALT upgraded. I wonder if anybody went that route? Are there any issues with increasing the amps...heat, etc...?

[David (N. Alabama)]

I run the wal mart driving lights. On all the time. In winter I run the tourmaster heated jacket liner and gloves. Same lead acid battery that was on the bike when I bought it 3 years ago. I did change out he headlight to a 55/65 watt.

[The Count]

actually most of my driving is at highway speeds, I did rev it up to about 3000 RPM's the voltage came up to 13.3 or so, but I will keep an eye on it. I guess I could look into getting the ALT upgraded. I wonder if anybody went that route? Are there any issues with increasing the amps...heat, etc...?

With the upgraded alternator you can get 55 amps opposed to the current 35 amps out of the stock alternator. One problem with that is that the upgraded alternator doesn't start charging until 1000rpm's. So your basically right back to where you are now. Consider changing all of your running lights over to LED's. This will cut down on the amperage used and provide more for accessories.....

[Dean]

I recently looked on Ebay for some H3 LED bulbs.
Ended up getting L-1110 2 PCS H3 BULBS CAR 26 SMD LED SUPER WHITE LAMP. They look awsome and use a heck of alot less juice then my 100 W bulbs that I had.

[Rusty - SC Iowa]

In winter I run the tourmaster heated jacket liner and gloves.

Gee David, what's it do get below 60 down there?

[David (N. Alabama)]

In winter I run the tourmaster heated jacket liner and gloves.

Gee David, what's it do get below 60 down there?

28 in the mornings. 50s on a sunny afternoon. But you know anything below 80 is cool. :-)

62 this morning and I wore my solid leathers.