Anyone Have Trouble w/Fuse Block Connector?

[Ohio Mike]

Been chasing an electrical gremlin for the past week or so and think I have found it in the connector between the fuse block and the main harness. We 'think' there was some heat there and for sure things changed (for the good) when we messed with it. However, so far we have not been able to get it apart. There are a couple clips with short round pins on them on the one end of the connector and the other end is not as large and has a flange on it that might be intended to give a place to grip. Just wondering if anyone has had similar problems, knows the secret to separating the connector, and what the fix might have been. Hoping the problem stays away at least for a couple days as we are supposed to head out at 7AM Saturday morning for a weekend ride about 150 miles from home!

Thanks,
Ohio Mike

[Martin & Karen]

Hello Mike, This subject has been covered many times on this site, that multi pin connector causes all kinds of trouble. I have cut mine out on my '86' model then soldered and heat shrinked the connections. Several of the pins carry a lot of current and on my bike they had overheated and melted the connector, so I had to force it apart. Since finding that problem, I have been through the bikes electric's and lubed every connector, no gremlins since, good luck!

Kind regards Martin.

[richardb, austin]

Wait a minute! Mike are you talking about the fuse block that is just forward of and toward the right end of the battery, part number 26004-1065, or are you talking about a 9 pin, white-colored molex connector that is located in the upper left fairing area?

[Ohio Mike]

Wait a minute! Mike are you talking about the fuse block that is just forward of and toward the right end of the battery, part number 26004-1065, or are you talking about a 9 pin, white-colored molex connector that is located in the upper left fairing area?

The white molex connector is what the fuse block connects into the harness with isn't it? That connector is where we (my brother-in-law was helping me gremlin chase) thought there was some heat. The 10 Amp 'Ignition' fuse is the one I seem to routinely loose. Went thru 3 fuses this weekend in around 400 miles. I check the current draw before I replace the fuse and, except for the very first fuse of the weekend, the fault was always cleared when I checked. The first time around I began to think it had finally shorted permanently because moving everything I could reach on the left side of the bike had no effect. I tried the same thing on the right side and when I next checked the current, the short was gone. After that, I was never able to measure anything more than the normal current draw which appears to be between 2.5 and 3.5 amps. Sure is obvious when the fuse goes though because I loose OD and Neutral indicators, fuel & temperature gages, tach, tail and brake lights. When the fault is there, if I leave the ammeter leads across the Ignition fuse block connections too long the main 30 amp fuse will go! Ammeter only goes to 20 amps and it shows over range.

Ohio Mike

[Mr Jensee]

Sounds like you have corrosion issues with the contact pins. If you had a short you'd have a burnt wire someplace where it grounded out. Corrosion will cause the wire and contacts to have greater resistance that creates heat and hence will blow the fuse when the wires get too hot. Like they said, clean all the contact points, bullet connectors, molex thoroughly then grease them with a good electrical grease to prevent future corrosion.