Electrical Problems trying to add lights

[usmalenurse]

Bought some LED lights to add to the rear of the bike and started working on them today. Just added a small led to the right saddlebag and it was supposed to work as an extra running light and turn signal. When I plugged it in, it didn't work right so I switched the wires around a little and blew a fuse. Replaced the fuse and redone the wires....only 3 wires, 1 to the ground, 1 to the running light and 1 to the turn signal. Played around a little more and had to go get another fuse. Last fuse I put in and fired the engine up and light didn't work and now I notice...no headlight, no running lights . Just unhook the wires and rewire it without the new light and check the fuses, all good. Tried it again and still no headlights, no running lights on the front or the saddlebags. Turn signals work on the saddlebags and the running lights/brake lights work fine on the trunk. I'm guessing that I blew the relay but I'm open for suggestions. If it is the relay, how do you check it and just where in the He%# is it located. I'm going to regroup in the morning and see what I can do.
Any help is appreciated...

[debron]

Still posted in the wrong place, but close enough (s/b General 1200.) It's possible you melted something when the fuse blew, like at a connector or someplace where a wire is crimped. Electrical issues like this are annoying and frustrating to track down. The wiring diagram doesn't help much as it doesn't show the physical locations on the bike so it's hard to find these things. You can try swapping the headlight relay with another relay to find out if that is the problem. If the headlight still doesn't work, you've at least eliminated one thing.

[usmalenurse]

Thanks...found the issue this morning and got it corrected . Was a different fuse that I "thought" was okay. Now have the lights on but still have problems . The lights are dual intensity and I wanted to run them as extra running lights and turn signals. I mounted them on the saddlebags just below the turn signal/reflector on the bottom rear. After installing the left one, it only worked with the turn signal.....no running light at all. I switched the blue and red wires and it only worked in running light mode with no turn signal. I figured I could live with that so I wired them the same on the right saddlebag......only worked as a turn signal as well. Took it back off and switched the blue and red wires and it still only works as turn signal. One saddlebag works as running light and the other only works as a turn signal. Any suggestions?? The right saddlebag does have an extra wire tapped in for the mud flap running lights that the other owner had installed but I don't know why that should matter....

[usmalenurse]

Well, I finally got both saddlebag lights to function the same way. Only function as an extra turn signal light and not a running light but right now I'm satisfied to have them both the same. I installed 3 more lights on the trunk and they work perfectly as running and brake lights with one in the center flashing when you apply the brakes. I've also got a set of driving lights that I'm planning to install but I'm going to wait till I've got a little more time.

[lilabner]

Everyone adding accessories,you might want to consider one of these.....fit perfect siliconed on top of cruise igniter..available at advance auto--? $10.00. saves harness problems and burnouts later! the harnesses are designed to carry precise amount of load.

[jaynes]

I got the same fuse block you have but am confused on how you wired the fuse block? One wire to the hot side on the battery, but what about the ground. Also when wiring the accessories to the fuse block does the hot go to the silver tab? Where does the ground wire from the accessory go? If you haven't noticed by now, I am a cook not an electrician; I can show you how to cook a meatloaf.

Thanks...Jim

[lilabner]

LUV meatloaf....I BAKE TOO!! Any way, coming atya.. My personal preference IS to#1. inline fuse {see it left side batt} going to hot + side of battery with eyelet to fit bolt, to main terminal of fuse block with eyelet. DOUBLE SAFETY..#2. Run hot+ wire with female slip terminal to block clip.
#3. Gang ground - wires together, put on eyelet, bolt to chasis...or to - on batt post, to keep clutter down and neetness & safety from chafeing I bolted my grounds to right side battery bracket bolt...red&white wire & eyelet you can see..OR pending needs and cut down wire runs, GROUND your accessories at mounting point {accessory that is} RUN +hot wire from accessory to fuse block--through safe zones on chassis{extra saefty-wire inside vinyl tubing or wire loom}zip tie at given points to keep in place.
if you need the same photo in high res for viewing, e-me. any things else let me know,always glad to help! REMEMBER--without cooks & good food-work never gets done, repairmen starve!

[debron]

Well, I finally got both saddlebag lights to function the same way. Only function as an extra turn signal light and not a running light.....

Charles,

Your issues got me curious, especially since no one has chimed in on your specific questions. I looked at my saddlebag lights. Your new lights must be pretty small if you installed them below the existing lights!

I'm assuming you are hooking up the hot wire for the new running lights to the existing positive (hot) lead for the existing running (side) lights, and the same for the turn signals. That being the case, where are you running the single ground wire for the new lights? If you are splicing to one of the ground wires for the existing lights, you might try making a pigtail and splicing to both ground wires. Doesn't seem you should have to do this but you never know with electrical systems. Ground should be ground but many electrical issues come down to a bad or incorrect ground connection.

Then again, it's always possible your new lights are defective!

[lilabner]

Losing track on subjects?? The above reply is in reference to the cooks question on fuse block hook up & use......ALL my addons are just that, my FACTORY harness is FACTORY PERFECT & untouched, I`ve been a mechanic for better than 40yrs....spent thousands of hours repairing factory harnesses
because people took the quick fix---it`s hot or a ground so just tap in"""""",
ALL foreign made vehicles since early 70s have aloud a very small variance in
the electric flow in factory harnesses--1-2amp generally on inside vehicle harness, All vehicles since mid 90s now that way...{more computer crap,more sensative & dangerous!] Ever wonder why so many burnt to the ground vehicles sitting on road & in junk yards?! To Tap a factory harness you BETTER know what your doing or have the luck of genie! Some things can be done,certain ways with givens...to a factory harness but you have to
know the whole details to the subject all ways around...ie..you can tap factory fuse boxes under the hood in the right place and some harness-BUT
again?! Lilabner

[JHD]

This company makes a great auxiliary fuse panel. This is the model I bought along with one of their relay kits.

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml

Makes it a snap to add accessories without overloading existing circuits.

[pasam]

Hi,
lilabner is correct that one needs to be careful in adding lites and accessories to be sure they are wired up properly. Not an answer to the original question just a note of caution. I just worked several days on a 1500 Goldwing trike that had a ton of aux lites added. What a nightmare, wires ran in all directions without relays or fuses. Whoever did the work had no knowledge of how the electrical systems work. If it would have been taken to a repairshop or dealer for repairs, the cost would have been extreamly high. It now has the above mentioned fuse block with relays and wiring cleaned up with a drawing of all the aux wiring. To make things interesting the whole fiberglass rear assembly had to be loosened and moved back out of the way to remove the relay box cover to replace one of the blown headlight fuses inside. Just more thing to help form lasting opinions!
This is the place to get the answers to do it correctly. Good luck, pasam

[lilabner]

Pasam..I set here typeing reply for around 1/2 hour, only to have some OVERSEER make it magically disapear! And now will make short reply for you...because of aformentioned.....YES,AND GOOD GOING!! Nice to meet you! NOW__FOR THE GUY IN THE SHADOWS OVER SEEING MY POST!??
if I can help with anything further pasam 931-668-5014 or e me & I`ll call
you. lilabner.

[debron]

Losing track on subjects?? The above reply is in reference to the cooks question on fuse block hook up & use......

There are about 7 replies above, to which are you referring? And who is "the cook"?

This thread is about adding two small LED lights (which draw less than 1/4 amp) to the saddlebag running lights and turn signals. The info about adding additional fuse blocks is informative and interesting but probably not applicable in this situation since the current draw of the LED's is so small. Powering accessories and lights from a separate source as a fuse block is a great idea for high power devices like high current incandescent, halogen, and HID lights, horns, etc., but in any case one would need to also install a relay for things like turn signals (or horns.)

In this case, a relay (which still involves tapping into the existing wiring harness someplace) would draw as much and probably more power than the LED lights.

The electrical system of the XII is by today's standards, antique. Adding a FEW extra low current lights is not an issue and easily handled by the existing wiring. The problems come when adding a lot of high power stuff and the wiring is done willy-nilly as on the GW 1500 example.

[Chris near Kansas City]

Pasam..I set here typeing reply for around 1/2 hour, only to have some OVERSEER make it magically disapear!

Doubt it was some overseer. It will sort of time you out if you take too long, and whatever you typed can disappear. As most here would agree, I can post some loooong replies. When typing a book for a reply, I always highlight and then copy, just for (my) sanity's sake, then preview the post before final posting. If the assembly instructions for the Boeing 747 just disappeared, then you still have it "copied" in your computer's queue or clipboard. Paste, preview, then final post. It'll save lots of retyping.

[debron]

Pasam..I set here typeing reply for around 1/2 hour, only to have some OVERSEER make it magically disapear!

Doubt it was some overseer. It will sort of time you out if you take too long, and whatever you typed can disappear. As most here would agree, I can post some loooong replies. When typing a book for a reply, I always highlight and then copy, just for (my) sanity's sake, then preview the post before final posting. If the assembly instructions for the Boeing 747 just disappeared, then you still have it "copied" in your computer's queue or clipboard. Paste, preview, then final post. It'll save lots of retyping.

Or hit "preview" every 5 minutes or so to restart the clock, or write your reply in a word processing program, then copy and paste. Also, when you are done and after previewing don't forget to hit "submit" or your post won't get posted. (Ask me how I know!)