1995 voyager1200 electrical

[joecader]

Howdy folks,
I had an issue with my bike a month ago.
The bike died when I was out riding and when i tried to start it it seemed like the battery was dead. I waited a few then started it up again. It ran for about 3-5 minutes and died again.
I trucked it home. I charged the battery and fired it up. It ran just fine. I pulled the negative battery cable off the battery while it was running and the bike died.
I pulled the alternator and it tested good.
I'm wondering where I look next or what steps I need to take so I'm not stranded when I go riding.The bike is sitting waiting for me to try and locate the trouble. To top that off, my ladyfriend is wondering when we are going riding again.
Thanks for all the help.

Joe

[gearheadfla]

One the right side of the bike (setting on it) and under the fake tank, there is a wiring harness running up the top frame rail to the ing. switch and the speedo cluster, look and see if the tie wrap is still on it toward the steering stem, if so cut it off, in time it can break the wires inside the harness, wiggle the harness and see if it does anything. if so you will have to CAREFULLY cut the harness cover off and check each wire, someone will chime in and know what color wire to check first, if one is broke, splice a new piece in. Not saying this IS the problem but it has happened before and a good place to start, but cut that wire tie off anyway to give the harness some slack to move as you turn the front wheel. Wiggling may or may not do it but like I said, gotta start some where, let us know what you find.

[joecader]

Thanks Jim.
It will give me something to check out this weekend... hate missing good riding weather.

[joecader]

Looks like PO has been into the wiring harness.
I wiggled them all..no change.

[joecader]

It would be fantastic if someone remembered which wire was the culprit.

[SgtSlag]

Disconnecting the battery while the bike is running, is very dangerous: it can cause a powerful, momentary surge, and destroy the electronics... The battery forms a load on the alternator: remove the load, and you get a huge surge (more dangerous on permanent magnet type alternators/generators). Also, the alternator is equipped with electro-magnets, not permanent magnets. When you disconnect the battery, they lose power (their magnetic field collapses), and the alternator stops generating electricity (magnetic induction generates the electricity -- no magnets, no power, no spark, no run).

Perform a load test on the battery -- doesn't matter how new/old it is (auto parts stores do it for free). Test the charging system: put a Digital Volt Meter across the battery terminals, when it is running, and see if you get 13-14 Volts DC, when the engine is at 3,000 RPM, which indicates it is charging the battery (higher than 15 Volts means the Regulator is failing/needs replacing); check for AC Voltage: should read less than 3 Volts AC, otherwise the Rectifier is failing/needs replacing. Rectifiers and Regulators are usually combined into a single unit.

To monitor the charging system, and the battery, install a Voltage Meter, and check it, occasionally, while riding: link (requires a switched, 12 Volt outlet; other options available can be permanently wired into the battery). If you see it at less than 13 Volts, you are running off of the battery, and when it drops below 12 Volts (11.7 Volts?), you will likely be coasting to a stop with a dead engine. When you go to start it up, if you have less than 12.7 Volts, you might not be able to start it. The Battery Tender Jr. is your friend: plug the bike in after each and every ride, and your battery will last longer, and it will be fully charged every time you start it (spins over a little bit faster/easier, has maximum starting Voltage/Current at this point). Cheers!

[Lucasind]

...everything sarge said is true !!! don't do dat !!

[gearheadfla]

While you in it and unpluging connectors, it would be a good idea the clean and lube them with a dielectric grease, you can get it at a auto parts store, any connector you can get to, unplug, clean and lube it, I don't think this will fix your problem (but you never know) but it may keep the gremlins from popping their heads up down the road.

[chevyman1]

Check the big plug from the fuse block, the pins tend to get corroded and lose contact.
Sometimes the pins even burn off.
Also to check the wires to the ignition carefully split the cover off separate the wires then pull on them one at a time, The coating will stretch where the wire is broke inside.
You don't have to pull real hard, use common sense you don't want to pull the end of the wires out of the ignition.

[joecader]

I got it figured out.
thanks for all the input.
Cheers!

[gearheadfla]

I got it figured out.
thanks for all the input.
Cheers!

So what did you find out?

[joecader]

there was a connector on the left side of the bike under the fake tank. I zip-tied it together
and added Kuryakyn LED Battery Gauge and it seems to be doing good.