Steering Stem Locknut Torque Question

[debron]

Last year I tightened my steering stem locknut because I was having serious wobble issues. I tightened it to 105 inch lbs (manual says 95 inch lbs) and that took care of the issue for the most part, at least for riding solo. However, I still have wobble issues when the bike is loaded for travel - full saddlebags, trunk, heavy cooler on passenger seat, that sort of thing. Twice on my trip this spring the wobble was so violent when accelerating through 20-30 from a stop I had to slow way down to get the wobble under control and then accelerate quickly past 30 so the wobble didn't have time to develop. The wobble was there other times but controllable. This got me to thinking (always dangerous!)

Looking at the manual, Kawasaki has a special tool (57001-1100) for tightening the steering stem locknut. The place where a torque wrench (or any wrench) would attach to this tool looks to be 4" - 5" (maybe even 6, it's hard to tell looking at a photo) away from the center of the nut. This means any force applied to the tool at this connection would be amplified at the nut because of the 4" - 5" of leverage of the tool. Therefore, if 95 inch lbs is applied to the torque wrench, the torque at the nut would be considerably more than 95 inch lbs. because of this amplification. So if using a conventional style socket (such as the one made by Gene Kapuscinski, (ekap1200) which I have) that would mean I need to apply more than 95 inch lbs (but how much more?? I was pretty good at algebra and geometry in school but that was a year or 40 ago!)

Is my logic correct or am I missing something? In any event, I need to tighten my nut!

[Gator Mike]

I was under the impression that's the correct torque value using Gene's socket. I have no wobble at all at that setting. Wonder if your tires might be presenting a problem--air pressure, worn, etc. Just a thought..........Gator Mike

[OldKawDrvr]

Last year I tightened my steering stem locknut because I was having serious wobble issues. I tightened it to 105 inch lbs (manual says 95 inch lbs) and that took care of the issue for the most part, at least for riding solo. However, I still have wobble issues when the bike is loaded for travel - full saddlebags, trunk, heavy cooler on passenger seat, that sort of thing. Twice on my trip this spring the wobble was so violent when accelerating through 20-30 from a stop I had to slow way down to get the wobble under control and then accelerate quickly past 30 so the wobble didn't have time to develop. The wobble was there other times but controllable. This got me to thinking (always dangerous!)

Looking at the manual, Kawasaki has a special tool (57001-1100) for tightening the steering stem locknut. The place where a torque wrench (or any wrench) would attach to this tool looks to be 4" - 5" (maybe even 6, it's hard to tell looking at a photo) away from the center of the nut. This means any force applied to the tool at this connection would be amplified at the nut because of the 4" - 5" of leverage of the tool. Therefore, if 95 inch lbs is applied to the torque wrench, the torque at the nut would be considerably more than 95 inch lbs. because of this amplification. So if using a conventional style socket (such as the one made by Gene Kapuscinski, (ekap1200) which I have) that would mean I need to apply more than 95 inch lbs (but how much more?? I was pretty good at algebra and geometry in school but that was a year or 40 ago!)

Is my logic correct or am I missing something? In any event, I need to tighten my nut!

The amount of change to the torque value as applied to the nut through the extra leverage provided by the length of the tool on the end of the torque wrench is a function of the ratio of the length of the tool to the length of the torque wrench. Example: if the torque wrench is 12" from the center of the socket to the center of the handle and the tool has a 6" extension, the torque will be increased by 50%. That said, when I had a wobble problem I spoke to God (aka Carl Leo) and he told me to make sure the cables don't bind the fork and to snug the nut till there was just a slight drag on the fork. I did that and the wobbles were gone until I passed a guy and reached a speed of about 105 mph and a slight wobble developed. I added a Superbrace and now no wobbles at any speed. I can ride hands off.

Make sure your tires are properly inflated and in good condition, your swing arm bearings are properly adjusted and wheel bearings are in good shape.All these things and perhaps more, can contribute to a wobble. Good luck

[jn1200]

How do you adjust swing arm bearings?

[richardb, austin]

All I've got on swing arm bearing adjust is from my drive line lube instructions:
"Do not mess with the center bolt on the right side - this is adjustment for the swingarm tautness."
Wonder if that was 105 mph or 105 VMPH (Voyager miles per hour).

[Chris near Kansas City]

You may need more or less than the 95 in/lb for your particular bike.

I do recommend picking up the factory shop manual if you're going to be doing any work on a Voyager.

Swing Arm Removal
Remove the following:
Travel Trunk and Bracket
Saddlebags and Brackets
Rear Wheel
Final drive unit
Remove the mounting bolt from the lower end of the right shock absorber.
Free the brake hose from the clamps on the swing arm.
Pry off the swing arm pivot caps.
Unscrew the allen bolts to remove the shaft retainers on both sides
While holding the swing arm, pull out the swing arm shafts using a suitable bolt or screw.

Pull back the swing arm and take it off (if you're going to be greasing the bearings).

Swing Arm Installation Notes (including Swing Arm Alignment) :
Grease the swing arm shaft holes with a molybdenum disulfide grease and install the swing arm shafts.
Align the swing arm as the following sequence:
lnstall the left shaft retainer and tighten the allen bolts to 95 in/lbs.
lnstall the spacer and right shaft retainer.
Temporarily tighten the retainer mounting allen bolts. Snug is good.
Screw in the adjuster until it stops and tighten it to 13 ft/lbs.
Using a box end/open end wrench, tighten the adjuster locknut to 39 ft/lbs while keeping the adjuster from turning.

Tighten the right shaft retainer mounting Allen bolts to 95 in/lbs.

Move the swing arm up and down to check for abnormal friction, and push and pull it from side to side to check for bearing play.

[OldKawDrvr]

All I've got on swing arm bearing adjust is from my drive line lube instructions:
"Do not mess with the center bolt on the right side - this is adjustment for the swingarm tautness."
Wonder if that was 105 mph or 105 VMPH (Voyager miles per hour).

That was VMPH. My speedo is about 10% high, so I was probably going about 95. I have a speedo app on my phone that shows real world MPH.