1994 Voyager 1200 with 2800 miles since new problems.

[EZdriver]

I have acquired a barn find 1994 Voyager 1200 with 2800 miles since new. Sat for over 10 years. I got it running (pulled and overhauled carbs, synched, yada yada). Changed plugs, succeeded in pulling the #2 and 3 plug wires out of the caps. I've ordered a pair of NGK plug wire splices and wire to provide a pigtail for future replacement.
Problems remaining: The headlight comes on every few starts. Mostly doesn't. I'm assuming the headlight relay? Where would it be located?
Next, I finally got to drive it for an hour. Towards the last of the ride, the clutch started slipping under load. I noticed the first time I rode it that the clutch handle was almost all the way out before the clutch engaged.
Is there adjustment? The book has nothing on that except the springs are broken... 2700 miles? I think not. Anyway, thanks for your response.

[SgtSlag]

Just a stab in the dark, but have you flushed the brake fluid in the clutch? If it is original, it is very likely bad. The hydraulics may be gummed up. Secondly, the oil that sat in the bike while it was in storage, might have contained friction modifiers; energy conserving oil can affect wet clutches. If it sat with that oil in the clutch, for years... Try changing oil with a known good oil, free of friction modifiers. Shell Rotella T/T6 is good, free of friction modifiers, and inexpensive. Cheers!

[EZdriver]

No I didn't change the brake fluid. I changed all the other fluids, crankcase and final drive. The clutch is releasing fine. It's not engaging until the clutch handle is nearly all the way out.

[ekap1200]

No I didn't change the brake fluid. I changed all the other fluids, crankcase and final drive. The clutch is releasing fine. It's not engaging until the clutch handle is nearly all the way out.

Cover your plastic up very well and remove the cover on the clutch master cyl, as SGTSlag stated after years of sitting the passages may be gummed up and fluid in dire need of replacing. The fluid may not be returning to the master cyl. Go for the simple repair first. It could be just as simple as that. Sitting that long both the rear and front brake systems also need to be flushed. Also replace all the fluids, and keep a few fuel filters in stock. Gene

[triton28]

EZDriver;
to further what SgtSlag and Ekap have posted, there are 2 small holes on the bottom floor of the master cylinder. The first and larger is the fluid supply to the piston and generally this is not a problem due to it's relative large size. However, the second hole, which is the return to the master cylinder for the fluid, is very small and corrosion from moisture in the fluid will corrode the aluminium opening so that the fluid cannot release until the piston reaches the supply hole. This tiny opening will occassionaly need to be opened up with a very small utensil such as a numbered drill bit or a strand of stiff copper wire. I suspect this is what is happening.
Give this a try and with a flush and new fluid, hopefully all will work as intended.
Regards,
Dave

[SgtSlag]

Just an aside, have you changed the fork oil, and the oil in the rear shocks? These are often overlooked. Fresh oil in both suspension systems can make a world of difference in the handling and performance.

I own a '93. Fantastic bikes when they are running properly, with fresh fluids throughout. Your bike, once the kinks are ironed out, will be like brand new... That would be something that would certainly put a smile on my face. Good luck. Cheers!

[EZdriver]

I got the same advice from the dealer, to flush and change the clutch fluid and bleed. I can see how the fluid not returning would restrict the release of the clutches. Thanks. I'll keep you all informed. Now to figure out which relay is the one that turns on the headlights after start. It's intermittent.

[EZdriver]

THANKS SgtSlag and Ekapj but Triton 28 gets the prize!! The little return line hole was clogged. I removed the line from the reservoir and hit it with a little shop air and poof out came the obstruction. I bled the system in I/A/W (in accordance with) the SRM, and the clutch works normally now. Hall-E-Louya.
I pumped almost a whole container of DOT4 through the system until it was clean. Thanks again
Ken

[triton28]

Glad to hear it worked. But I was suggesting this course of action for the lever release positioning. I don't think it would have any bearing on clutch slippage unless the supply hole was plugged, like a check valve so to speak, and not letting the fluid return at all, thus keeping the slave cylinder piston under pressure. This is very unlikely.
It will take a similar set of driving circumstances to see if the opening of the small orifice helped with the slippage issue. If not, then some Rotella as was suggested may be the best plan. If it stills slips after that, and some engine hours to work any anti-friction additives out, one would have to examine the plates for wear, highly unlikely given the apparent mileage, and the free length of the removed clutch springs against the factory spec'd length. I hope your clutch problem is solved with the easy, opening of the hole, fix.
Now for the relay; there is a bank of 3 rubber encapsulated relays attached to the LH outside of the battery cage. On mine the headlight relay is the aftmost relay. Look for the yellow/blue and black/white trigger wires, and the 2 red/blue headlight circuit wires.
Dave

[mountainman]

The little return hole in clutch master cylinder will cause clutch slippage. And I suspect your clutch problems to be over. However they will return in a year or two if the hole wasn't cleaned thoroughly.
This release port hole is your handle freeplay auto adjuster.

[EZdriver]

I may have spoken too soon. I took it out for a little ride and initially the clutch engaged earlier in the handle travel, but after two or three stops, it appears the problem is still there. The bike doesn't untrack until the clutch lever is nearly completely released. Big sigh. I'm going to bleed again this afternoon. Next, pull the clutch pack.

[triton28]

EZ;
it sounds as though there may be a partially seized slave cylinder piston. I'd bet there is corrosion in the bore of the slave cylinder and on the piston. Try this; pump the clutch lever until it cycles the clutch plate assembly several times. Release any pressure on the lever, then, carefully remove the slave cylinder and spacer, crack open the bleeder screw and see if you can move the piston back into the bore of the slave cylinder. Watch out for fluid squirting out of the bleeder, so have a bleeder hose leading to a clean container. With the bleeder OPEN, it should displace fluid through the bleeder/hose and slide back in with a minimum of steady pressure, similar in force to the pressure plate springs. NOTE, the piston can be moved out in the bore with the bleeder closed by using the clutch lever BUT, DO NOT pump the lever very hard or often while the slave cylinder is off, unless the piston is stuck (won't go back in the bore), and you really DO want to remove it. It is tricky to re-install but can be accomplished with care and patience. There was a thread here in this forum, I believe, wherein the replacing of the cylinder was outlined by several persons, "bwarnock", "Don Medina" and others, I seem to recall. Check for it and you will see what is involved in getting the piston back into the bore.
If you find the piston is relatively smooth and free in it's movement, then it is something in the next part of the clutch apparatus. The above is a relatively simple check as opposed to a cover removal and teardown of the plate assembly.
Good luck,
Dave

[triton28]

I forgot to mention that when you first try to move the piston back into the bore it may already be against the rear/bottom wall of the cylinder, or it's seized. In the first scenario you will have to use the lever sparingly, and with a c clamp or some other method to limit the piston's travel away from the rear/bottom, in order to move the piston out enough to check it's movement. The movement should be smooth and not feel as though it is fetching up and then releasing as it travels back in the bore. If the movement isn't smooth or if the piston is seized solidly, which I doubt because it sounds as though there is movement, you may want to find the thread I mentioned, pop it out and have a look.
Dave

[EZdriver]

Update. In accordance with the advice from this forum and the maintenance manual, I pulled the clutch slave and exercised it in and out and it appears to be free and smooth. I re-bled. It seems that I still have a problem so I think I'll overhaul the master. Continuing saga.

[onegunguitar]

I changed the clutch lever out on mine to adjustable lever from the Concours 1000,part number 13236-1186. It'll change your point of engagement/disengagement by adjusting the knob on the lever. I've had mine on there for 3 years now,works like a champ.

[EZdriver]

Update: Got my headlights working at least for now. I pulled every fuse and re-seated them. I then unscrewed the fuse block and sprayed the underside with ACF-50. I was just about to start tearing the cowl off to get to the other relays above the headlight to swap them out (the two are the same part number) and I happened to crank it up. Viola'. The lights now work. So I don't know exactly what fixed it, I just hope it lasts. My list is very short. I have a little stutter (one cylinder drops out for a second or two) when I accelerate, especially when cold. When it warms up, it's hardly noticeable. Thanks for everybody's help!!! Waking up a 20 year old sleeping giant is time consuming. But she rides like a dream!!

[richardb, austin]

I'm late to this party & I hope you're done but if the symptoms recur and you dig into the slave cylinder for cleaning, try to clean the slave cylinder without removing the piston from the cylinder. It's easily removed & very difficult to reinstall. I had to send mine to Magic Hands Carl Leo to get it back together. That seal is swollen

[EZdriver]

I didn't. But if I did, I would overhaul it with new seals. Thanks!!!!