Oil
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Oil
Hi
Have a 2013 Voyager.
At the first oil change I switched over from the Dino oil to the Kawasaki Synthetic.
Is there any time frame;ie should I have waited to get a few more miles on the bike before changing to the synthetic.
I had the first change at the dealer and the tech dod not mention anything,but reading here,I see that some of the members accumulated some miles untill changing out.
Also with the synthetic,my oil light is on untill the bike starts,is this due to the oil pressure not being up untill the bike actually fires up?
Thanks in advance.
Have a 2013 Voyager.
At the first oil change I switched over from the Dino oil to the Kawasaki Synthetic.
Is there any time frame;ie should I have waited to get a few more miles on the bike before changing to the synthetic.
I had the first change at the dealer and the tech dod not mention anything,but reading here,I see that some of the members accumulated some miles untill changing out.
Also with the synthetic,my oil light is on untill the bike starts,is this due to the oil pressure not being up untill the bike actually fires up?
Thanks in advance.
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Re: Oil
The pressure light won't go out till engine starts, it has been this way since idiot lights were invented sometime back in the 40's? Use syn oil anytime, as long as it is not energy conserving, if it is M/C specific syn oil it will not have energy conserving additives. But, any syn oil that is 10/40 or higher will not have energy conserving additives, auto or M/C. The only 10/30 full syn M/C specific oil that I know off is from Honda.
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Re: Oil
You switched over way to soon. You should not change to synthetic till you at least have 8000 miles on the bike. It will not let the rings set in properly and there is a good chance you will use more oil. I would remove it put proper oil back in and save it to put back in at the proper time.
Duane Ash
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Re: Oil
Thanks everyone
Seems to be a little conflict in opinions.But I think that would be due to everyones personal opinion and experience?
May switch back to the Dino oil again in the fall.Will see what else pops up here.
With my job,I will only put maybe 1000-1500 miles on the bike untill fall
Thanks again
Seems to be a little conflict in opinions.But I think that would be due to everyones personal opinion and experience?
May switch back to the Dino oil again in the fall.Will see what else pops up here.
With my job,I will only put maybe 1000-1500 miles on the bike untill fall
Thanks again
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Re: Oil
Do yourself a favor & stick with standard Rotella T. If it's good enough for the best diesel engines in the world, it's more than up to the task of protecting your motorcycle. It also exceeds all motorcycle oil specs for Kaw.
Turbo4x4
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Re: Oil
85,000 kms and still using Kawasaki 10 / 40 full synthetic
If your back tire lasts more than a season,
Then your not riding enough
2009 Voyager
1st One
Then your not riding enough
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Re: Oil
Diesel Oil
Doesn't that have detergents?
Only struck me because I have driven a diesel pick up for the last 15 years,and what oil to use in them is a whole other can of worms on a few other forums I follow
and Shell Rotella is always in the mix.
Doesn't that have detergents?
Only struck me because I have driven a diesel pick up for the last 15 years,and what oil to use in them is a whole other can of worms on a few other forums I follow
and Shell Rotella is always in the mix.
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Re: Oil
Detergents aren't the problem. Friction modifiers are the problem, and Rotella T has none, so no clutch problems. Rotella T also meets all Kaw specifications.seadog wrote:Diesel Oil
Doesn't that have detergents?
Only struck me because I have driven a diesel pick up for the last 15 years,and what oil to use in them is a whole other can of worms on a few other forums I follow
and Shell Rotella is always in the mix.
Turbo4x4
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Re: Oil
M.O.M. calls for the following:
Grade: API: SE, SF or SG
API: SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1, or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
AMSOIL Full Synthetic
10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
API SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API GL-1
Advanced multi-functional formula for both domestic and foreign motorcycles. Recommended for high-performance liquid or air-cooled 4-stroke engines and transmissions and both 4- and 2-stroke motorcycles. Wet-clutch compatible. Not recommended where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.
AMSOIL is the best full synthetic oil on the market. It is also the most expensive at $12.50 per quart. However, you will only change the filter at 10,000 miles and the oil at 20,000 miles or 1-year, whichever comes first. AMSIOL has never had an engine failure claim filed against their engine warranty. First US made API approved synthetic oil. Established in 1972.
Grade: API: SE, SF or SG
API: SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1, or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
AMSOIL Full Synthetic
10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
API SG, SL/CF, CG-4; JASO MA/MA2; ISO-L-EMA2; API GL-1
Advanced multi-functional formula for both domestic and foreign motorcycles. Recommended for high-performance liquid or air-cooled 4-stroke engines and transmissions and both 4- and 2-stroke motorcycles. Wet-clutch compatible. Not recommended where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.
AMSOIL is the best full synthetic oil on the market. It is also the most expensive at $12.50 per quart. However, you will only change the filter at 10,000 miles and the oil at 20,000 miles or 1-year, whichever comes first. AMSIOL has never had an engine failure claim filed against their engine warranty. First US made API approved synthetic oil. Established in 1972.
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Re: Oil
I sent an Email to the technical services at Amsoil headquarters. Here is what they said about Shell Rotella ...
"Cyclists got into using diesel oil in their bikes because gasoline oils contain friction modifiers that can lead to wet clutch slippage. Diesel oils do not contain friction modifiers, so they can be safely used, and diesel oils are much easier to get than are Motorcycle Oils. But diesel oils generally do not meet JASO MA or MA-2 specifications, so are not as good as are special Motorcycle Oils."
Byron Selbrede
Technical Services
AMSOIL INC.
ADDRESS: 1 AMSOIL Center, Superior, WI 54880
Here is information I found on Shell Rotella ...
"Shell Rotella T is a line of heavy duty engine lubrication products produced by Shell Oil Company. The line includes engine oils, gear oils and coolants. The oil carries both the American Petroleum Institute (API) diesel "C" rating as well as the API gasoline engine "S" rating. Ratings differ based on the oil. Furthermore, Shell technicians do NOT recommend Rotella oil for gasoline vehicles with catalytic converters.
Shell Rotella
Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. (This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission). Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.
JASO-MA
JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.
Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil does list on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets. Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.
The newer fully synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website."
Looks like the bottom line here is ... If you are going to use Rotella T conventional (dino) oil, you should use only the Rotella T 15W-40. OR, you can use the newer fully synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 which would be a much smarter choice of the two. Also, the Rotella T6 is only $6.72 per quart in Walmart. If the store carries it in stock. Free shipping on orders over $50.
I'm still gonna stick with Amsoil. It's American. (Yeah ... I know ... Japanese bike.)
"Cyclists got into using diesel oil in their bikes because gasoline oils contain friction modifiers that can lead to wet clutch slippage. Diesel oils do not contain friction modifiers, so they can be safely used, and diesel oils are much easier to get than are Motorcycle Oils. But diesel oils generally do not meet JASO MA or MA-2 specifications, so are not as good as are special Motorcycle Oils."
Byron Selbrede
Technical Services
AMSOIL INC.
ADDRESS: 1 AMSOIL Center, Superior, WI 54880
Here is information I found on Shell Rotella ...
"Shell Rotella T is a line of heavy duty engine lubrication products produced by Shell Oil Company. The line includes engine oils, gear oils and coolants. The oil carries both the American Petroleum Institute (API) diesel "C" rating as well as the API gasoline engine "S" rating. Ratings differ based on the oil. Furthermore, Shell technicians do NOT recommend Rotella oil for gasoline vehicles with catalytic converters.
Shell Rotella
Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. (This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission). Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.
JASO-MA
JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.
Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil does list on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets. Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.
The newer fully synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website."
Looks like the bottom line here is ... If you are going to use Rotella T conventional (dino) oil, you should use only the Rotella T 15W-40. OR, you can use the newer fully synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 which would be a much smarter choice of the two. Also, the Rotella T6 is only $6.72 per quart in Walmart. If the store carries it in stock. Free shipping on orders over $50.
I'm still gonna stick with Amsoil. It's American. (Yeah ... I know ... Japanese bike.)
Ride Safe
Shoot Straight
Speak the Truth
David & Deb
"NSASarge"
2015 CanAm Spyder RTL
2010 Voyager
AVA: 6178
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Shoot Straight
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David & Deb
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- Turbo4x4
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Re: Oil
Very nice work. I'm sure many will find your research makes the oil issue much less confusing.
Turbo4x4
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Re: Oil
You do not need to wait for a certain number of miles to "break in" the engine before using synthetic. Many manufacturers are putting synthetic oil in their engines at the assembly plant.
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4
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Re: Oil
Is that a motorcycle specific statement by mobil 1, or a car related statement. I don't know of any motorcycles that come with synthetic oil from the factory. Do you?boscoe wrote:You do not need to wait for a certain number of miles to "break in" the engine before using synthetic. Many manufacturers are putting synthetic oil in their engines at the assembly plant.
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4
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Re: Oil
MyDavid (N. Alabama) wrote:Is that a motorcycle specific statement by mobil 1, or a car related statement. I don't know of any motorcycles that come with synthetic oil from the factory. Do you?boscoe wrote:You do not need to wait for a certain number of miles to "break in" the engine before using synthetic. Many manufacturers are putting synthetic oil in their engines at the assembly plant.
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4
My new Harley Ultra Limited came with synthetic oilDavid (N. Alabama) wrote:Is that a motorcycle specific statement by mobil 1, or a car related statement. I don't know of any motorcycles that come with synthetic oil from the factory. Do you?boscoe wrote:You do not need to wait for a certain number of miles to "break in" the engine before using synthetic. Many manufacturers are putting synthetic oil in their engines at the assembly plant.
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4
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Re: Oil
I said motorcycle. Did it come with synthetic in all three(?) locations? I forget how many different oil locations there are on those machines.Grumpy44 wrote:MyDavid (N. Alabama) wrote:Is that a motorcycle specific statement by mobil 1, or a car related statement. I don't know of any motorcycles that come with synthetic oil from the factory. Do you?boscoe wrote:You do not need to wait for a certain number of miles to "break in" the engine before using synthetic. Many manufacturers are putting synthetic oil in their engines at the assembly plant.
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4My new Harley Ultra Limited came with synthetic oilDavid (N. Alabama) wrote:Is that a motorcycle specific statement by mobil 1, or a car related statement. I don't know of any motorcycles that come with synthetic oil from the factory. Do you?boscoe wrote:You do not need to wait for a certain number of miles to "break in" the engine before using synthetic. Many manufacturers are putting synthetic oil in their engines at the assembly plant.
Mobil 1 has this to say about the subject:
Is it true that new engines need break-in periods using conventional motor oil?
That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances, much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... aspx#FAQs4
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Re: Oil
[ I said motorcycle. Did it come with synthetic in all three(?) locations? I forget how many different oil locations there are on those machines.[/quote]
Those would be engine ,boot and floor?
Those would be engine ,boot and floor?