Parts were some 16ga red & black wire, a piggyback fuse gizmo, spade and ring connectors and a 12v 30 amp relay. All items were purchased from a local autoparts store.
Remove the lower fairing cover and unplug the 2 wires going to the OEM horn. Unbolt the horn (one 10 mm nut at the rear of the horn).

Pull the wires up thru the grommet in the fairing to a point near the battery - this is where some extra long needle nose pliers or 12" hemostats are handy to have. It is a little fiddly process.

These two wires plug into the new relay at terminals #85 and #86 - it does not matter which goes to which. The numbers are cast into the relay.

Next comes the 12v power input - I used a piggyback fuse gizmo plugged into the OEM fusebox onto an existing fuse that has power on when the ignition is on.



I then spliced on a length of red 16ga wire and crimped on a spade connector. This plugs into relay #30/51 as the 12v Input.


Now run another red wire from the horn location up thru the fairing grommet (hemostat helps) and crimp on another spade connector. This will plug into relay #87 and is the 12v Output. I then zip tied the relay to a frame member. The other end plugs into one of the new horn's spade terminals - does not matter which one.



Almost done. Make up a short jumper ground wire (16ga black wire) with a spade connector on one end and a ring terminal on the other. Connect one end to the other horn spade connector and I used one of the two 10mm bolts holding the horn brace to attach a good firm ground.



Replace the lower fairing piece - the horn I chose fits behind the cover without issue. A second horn can be run on the left side off the same relay. Just splice a red wire from one horn terminal to the next one and create a 2nd ground wire. Easy- Peasy.

In truth it took me longer to resize the pics and write up this posting than to do the work on the bike.