drive/propeller shaft

[JosephToulouse]

Again hello everyone!

Another question;

Concerning the drive shaft spline/u-joint........How often does it need servicing?

Have read it's a bit complicated process to disassemble and service.

My Voyager has 43,000 on it now...........should I be concerned?

As always.................thanks for the input!!!

joseph

[cushman eagle]

I greased both ends of the driveshaft on my'99 at 25000 miles,and the rear again at 45000.The front spline was somewhat dry when I greased it, but was not worn,and the u-joint felt excellent.The only reason I greased the rear again at 45000,was I had the final box out to drill the vent hole.If you do remove the u-joint,the tiny retaining pin likes to go where you can not find it,so you might want to get a spare before you start the project.You should get a service manuel before you do the service,with that,it is not a hard job.

[kjsett]

Hi, I have an '03 and had to change the u-joint last spring. Riding it, I started feeling vibration through my feet, especially during acceleration.
Carl was invaluable. According to him, the '01 (maybe includes the '00) to '03. The supplier to Kawasaki shorted on lubing the bearings. They wear out within 40k.
I found on ebay a '99 that had only 30k on it. Should be good for another 70k+.
Carl told me that buying a new one had the risk that it would be from the poorly lubed supply of parts. I paid $50 (inc shipping) for it.
I live down in Phoenix, if you ever get down this way.....
Enjoy,
Ken

[richardb, austin]

JT,
I just lubed my entire drive train for the 2nd time at 98k miles. 43k is about right. Don't be too concerned if, as KJSett reported, you find the top end almost bone dry. That is pretty common. Go ahead & pop out the swing arm bearings & hand pack them also. They're easily removed by pushing outward from inside the shaft. Keep an eye on that small pin that holds the shaft to the transmission - it'll pop out & be gone like Keyser Söze.

[voyager55]

How do you get to the front shaft to lube it? Never looked at it befor

[richardb, austin]

How do you get to the front shaft to lube it? Never looked at it befor

Service manual, Ch 10, p10-3 for diagram then page 10-8 for the picture titled A. Locking Pin Access Hole. Push the hidden button with a paper clip, remove drive shaft & watch where that hidden pin (4mm diam x 6mm length) falls.

[Larry in Arkansas]

On CH10 page 3 the illustration shows a rubber O ring in front of the coupling identical to the one on the pinion shaft. I've repacked the swing arm bearings in the past and I don't remember ever seeing an O ring in front of the coupling.

Anyone know where it goes?

The part number and description is;
RING-O,ID=150.4 Part number 92055-1039 (2) required

[ekap1200]

Again hello everyone!

Another question;

Concerning the drive shaft spline/u-joint........How often does it need servicing?

Have read it's a bit complicated process to disassemble and service.

My Voyager has 43,000 on it now...........should I be concerned?

As always.................thanks for the input!!!

joseph

Hello Joe, while getting the drive shaft out to grease the splines and inspect the joints movement is not that complicated , greasing the U-Joint is not possible without removing it. It has no grease fitting. And properly removing the u-joint without possible damage to or the yokes is a bit tricky. They have no grease fitting because they are a solid cross and made that way being such a small cross. Some have removed them using hammer,and vise grips and more than a few swear words, but I would not advise that. And when installing it too much grease will hamper the install, the excess grease has no where to go and while pressing it in , will just push out the seal from the cup stopping the cap from going in all the way.
The seal is not what a car u-joint is. A u-joint that has a grease fitting will pass the pressure past the seal to purge the joint of old grease. Not the case with non serviceable joints. If yours is shot, find a drive shaft in good shape. There is a u-joint from a prarrie that is a match but will run you about 100 dollars without the four new c-clips. A good used shaft is much cheaper and the way to go for anyone without a great deal of mechanical experience , an arbor press and a way of making a split collar to press the caps out the last 1/4 of the way out of the yoke. That would be for replacement as the split collars can damage the cups seal , depending on just how tight they are in the yoke.
On the subject of the front yoke , held in place by the pin . Just be ready for it to come out. Don't jerk the yoke off the splines, just start to slide it off and have a rag over where it will be able to spring out. It is only there to aid in the install , the spring in the rear of the shaft at the final drive is what holds the yoke square up against its land. Use a good waterproof grease on both the front and rear spline.
Gene Kap.

[triton28]

Larry;
if you are talking about the 2 o-rings shown as #92055-1037 on pre 1996 parts lists,
the 2nd one goes onto the tail end of the drive shaft and is covered by the propeller shaft outer coupling, #42034-1092. You already found the 1st one on the pinion gear coupling, 42034-1085.
To get at the 2nd o-ring, a set of thin long nose external snap ring pliers is needed to reach the circlip. Once the circlip and washer underneath it are removed, pull the coupling off the propeller shaft and you will find the 2nd o-ring, or at least where it should be.
Nowadays the o-rings being supplied are of the very last model years: 92055-1646.
It is a bit of a trick to remove and replace the circlip but with a little patience it is relatively simple to do.
Dave

[Larry in Arkansas]

Dave,

I did post the incorrect numbers for the o-rings. I meant 92055-1646.

You are correct about the placement of the o-rings. I talked with Carl Leo today and when I got home, I inspected the drive shaft coupling and noted that one of the o-rings was between the coupling and the drive shaft. I didn't notice it the last time I had it apart either. :)

Thanks for your help.

Larry