Feels like clutch/gear slipping slightly - feedback request

[HawkeSHR]

I checked my clutch fluid master cylinder and level is fine, no leaking, etc., anywhere. Once in a while I'm experiencing some slippage and sometimes it going into neutral in third gear. A couple of times in first gear, when releasing the clutch is felt like I was in a lower gear (2nd or 3rd) even though I was in first. Could hear engine bog down a little bit, but I would just pull in the clutch and slowly release it and it corrected.

I haven't bled the line yet. Air in the line? Also, is it OK to use a speedbleeder on that line?

Any other troubleshooting steps/recommendations?

Thanks in advance.

[SgtSlag]

Yes, you can use a SpeedBleeder on the clutch line -- it is nothing more than a one-way valve. They make bleeding much easier... Only technique which might be better, is to reverse-pump fluid up the line, into the master cylinder, using an old-fashioned pump oil can, filled with brake fluid. Requires the OEM bleeder valve, and some plastic tubing from a pet fish supplier, to connect the oil can's spout to the bleeder valve: open the valve, pull the lever halfway, and begin pumping fluid up the line, which is the way that the bubbles want to flow, naturally -- you're helping them to 'escape' upwards, and out of the reservoir.

May sound strange, but what viscosity oil are you using in the engine? If it is thinner than 10W-40 (like Rotella T6, 5W-40), you may want to change it to something with a winter weight/minimum viscosity of 10W, as per the manual. I ran the Rotella T6, 5W-40, for several years, but then I started having shifting issues, going into "neutral", between 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5! I changed the oil and filter, putting Rotella T, 15W-40, in the engine, and then we went for a 300+ mile ride: one mis-shift, which my wife feels was her fault for not fully lifting the shift lever, going from 4-5. I had no issues on that ride -- we each drove for around 150+ miles, riding two-up (heavy load on the transmission, and the engine). Cheers!

[HawkeSHR]

Yes, you can use a SpeedBleeder on the clutch line -- it is nothing more than a one-way valve. They make bleeding much easier... Only technique which might be better, is to reverse-pump fluid up the line, into the master cylinder, using an old-fashioned pump oil can, filled with brake fluid. Requires the OEM bleeder valve, and some plastic tubing from a pet fish supplier, to connect the oil can's spout to the bleeder valve: open the valve, pull the lever halfway, and begin pumping fluid up the line, which is the way that the bubbles want to flow, naturally -- you're helping them to 'escape' upwards, and out of the reservoir.

May sound strange, but what viscosity oil are you using in the engine? If it is thinner than 10W-40 (like Rotella T6, 5W-40), you may want to change it to something with a winter weight/minimum viscosity of 10W, as per the manual. I ran the Rotella T6, 5W-40, for several years, but then I started having shifting issues, going into "neutral", between 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5! I changed the oil and filter, putting Rotella T, 15W-40, in the engine, and then we went for a 300+ mile ride: one mis-shift, which my wife feels was her fault for not fully lifting the shift lever, going from 4-5. I had no issues on that ride -- we each drove for around 150+ miles, riding two-up (heavy load on the transmission, and the engine). Cheers!

Thanks Sarge. I will look into both ideas. The oil viscosity issue I did not see and glad you mentioned it. Thanks for taking the time to respond . Best Regards~!