Carb float valve retainer clip orientation

[forestfarm]

Just went thru my carbs and installed K&l kits which included pilot jets and new float valves.After this work all 4 carbs are spewing out fuel out the overflow.I swapped out the old clips onto the new needle valves.They looked identical to the ones that came with the new valves.I set the float height at 17mm just contacting but not depressing the needle rod.I found three of them were set at approx. 18 mm.One was right on 17mm.None leaked prior to me "fixing" them.My question is this.Is the orientation of the retainer clips important?They can go in two ways,one way is further in on the float tang than the other.I put them together this way.I bench tested them with a remote gas tank prior to reinstalling and none leaked but i didnt check the fuel level with a clear hose connected to the drain nipple.Now i am forced to remove them again and open them up.Should i reverse the orientation of the clips 180 degrees so that they just barely engage the float tang when reinstalled,or should i reset the float heights back to 18MM?I have the manual,I understand how to check the fuel level in each bowl with a clear hose.I will definitely do it this time.Its quite time consuming getting these carbs in and out.

[Highway Rider]

You stated this----"I set the float height at 17mm just contacting but not depressing the needle rod." Not sure what this means? If there was any play between the needle-- seat and the float that could be the problem.If there was any slack in this it could make the float actual adjustment not be at 17mm it could vary well be much less the 17mm and there fore causing it to over flow. So take the carburetor turn it up side down and the weight of the float should seat the needle in to the seat, and there should be no additional play, if you were to slightly push the float down. It is at this time you would check the float height and set it to 17mm or 18mm depending on which you want. But remember that the lower the number the more fuel will be in the bowl and more likely to run over.

17mm more fuel in the bowl
18mm less fuel in the bowl

[forestfarm]

Thanks Jim, You probably know that the needle valve has a little spring loaded needle rod that presses on the tang of the floats.I set them 17mm when the float tang was just contacting but not depressing the plunger.The manual states contacted but unloaded.I pulled them back apart and set them at 18 mm.At least I don't have to worry about the output of my fuel pump.It was pumping fuel like crazy out of all four overflows.I think I had the floats set too low.Atleast I was consistent.They all overflowed nicely.

[chevyman1]

I have been working on a Voyager to resale and I have been having the same problem.
I must of had the carbs. off 30+ times.
I put in new needles cleaned the seats with emery cloth install them and the fuel just runs out
got to the point that I removed the clips(to eliminate it being a problem with the clips) set the floats to 18MM dressed the seats and still had fuel just run out the left most carb. and the others would leak intermittently.
I done many of these carbs and never had a problem like this.
I got to the point that I believe the fuel was getting into the carb around the needle valve somehow.
So I changed the set out with another set I had that didn't leak started the bike up synced the carbs. looked down and fuel is just running out of all four carbs.
Pulled them and went over the needles and seats again.
At this point there not leaking but I am going to run the engine and get heat in it a couple of times before I put everything back together.
I have a new fuel filter on so I should not be getting any dirt from the tank.

[forestfarm]

Sorry to hear your troubles.I set mine to 18mm but now that I know this isn't an isolated problem, I will take a closer look at my replacement needles.The parts I took out had just a slight impression at the seat.Maybe I will just put them back in.They didn't leak at all.I had the carbs out to deal with the mice nest in the surge box,thought it would be a good idea to put kits in them.Now not so sure.I will keep you posted.I have a little time to day I can tinker on the bike

[forestfarm]

I just took a hard look at the K&L replacement parts compared to the stock parts.I noticed yesterday the different taper on the idle mixture screw.The stock parts come to a sharper point than the replacement parts.The stock needle valves also come to a sharper point than the k&L needles,the spring plungers are also much lighter spring than the k&L needles.When you let the floats rest on the k&L needles the plungers do not depress at all.When the floats rest on the stock needles the plungers depress 1/2 way down,just from the weight of the plastic floats.
I put my original float needles back in.Im sure that lots of folks have had good results with the k&L kits.I didnt have the favorable results I was after,whether it was caused by my own error or a part issue i have yet to determine.I reset the floats to 18mm and put the k&L float needles. back in the bag

[forestfarm]

Second attempt unsuccessful.carbs leaking the same set at 18mm with the old parts that didn't leak before I got in there.

[chevyman1]

frustrating isn't it
try to clean and polish the seats better
18mm is what you want the floats set at.

[lockwoodjohn]

Does Carl Leo have any input on this problem. He would be the person I would be getting some in put from. Lockwoodjohn

[bob1665]

Are you sure they are leaking out of the overflow tubes. I had to replace my float bowl to carb body o rings as the had dried up and shrank allowing fuel to seep out. The fuel level on these carbs when set properly is over the top of the float bowl and will seep out and drip from the carb base and could be taken as a needle and seat problem.

[triton28]

Just a longshot idea but these fuel pumps are designed to stop pumping when the pump senses 2-3 lbs. of back pressure. Could it be that the pump is not sensing the pressure and is continuing to pump above the designed cut off back pressure?
Perhaps a simple check of pinching the feed hose to the carbs with a pair of haemostats, to simulate a full float chamber, while the pump is energized would tell if the pump is working at design pressures. It should shut off with very little pressure build up against the created blockage.
As I say a long shot, but I have seen it happen,
Dave

[forestfarm]

I will try that tomorrow morning .

[chevyman1]

on the carbs. I was dealing with I tried 2 different pumps.
both I could stop by putting my finger over the end of the hose with little effort.
started the voyager I am working on last night, 3rd time now ran 5-10 minuets with no leaks.
I am going to run it one more time if it doesn't leak I am going to put everything back together pull it off the lift and see if I can make a successful test ride with out it leaking.

[doug of so fla]

Does Carl Leo have any input on this problem. He would be the person I would be getting some in put from. Lockwoodjohn

Ya'll need to get in contact with Carl Leo, I Know he can help you out. Seems to me something about not using the aftermarket float pin hangars, they will mess you up. I think Carl uses the original ones. give him a click or call.

[forestfarm]

I did reuse the original hangers.I just pulled the carbs off the bike again and when I took off the float bowls I found the two outer sets of floats stuck up due to debris around the float needles,some kind of crap in my fuel.It actually lodged the float needles in their bores,i had to tug them out.I was wearing jewelers headgear,magnifiers and I could see globular debris like sand and some crud in the bottoms of the float bowls looked like dried cement.I will clean everything out again.I want to energize my pump and collect some fuel in a glass jar to look for signs of contamination.I just changed that filter with an expensive Kawasaki filter two weeks ago .So it looks pretty simple now,just crap binding up my floats[

[forestfarm]