Battery Light is on...

[KISSfanJoe]

Okay guys, here is the first question about my new bike! However, I just answered it myself I believe! The battery light is on, and I just replaced the battery... However, the new battery didn't have a plug for the sensor... I have already installed it... What do I do?!? :(

[Mr Jensee]

Attach the sensor wire to the positive side of the battery and it will go out. Some people wire it to the positive side of a marker light but I just ran it to the battery without a problem. If someone could figure out why the dashboard headlight lamp wont go out I would be a happy camper.

[chevyman1]

the best place to hook that wire is to the orange wire on the turn signal flasher that way the key turns off the circuit. It is also recommended that you put a resistor in between.
The flasher is mounted on the side of the battery hold down.

[KISSfanJoe]

the best place to hook that wire is to the orange wire on the turn signal flasher that way the key turns off the circuit. It is also recommended that you put a resistor in between.
The flasher is mounted on the side of the battery hold down.

Thank you much! I will do that!

[ghostler]

You can also tie the Battery Electrolyte Level Sensor wire to battery positive, which I did. Reason is the battery instrument panel light's power is cut when the ignition switch is off. Chevyman's idea of splicing into the lighting circuit is a good option, as it is a clean way to splice into wiring without having to come up with an extra large spade lug to battery post. You'll find the info on how to do in Tech Tips:

https://www.amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXI ... y%20Sensor

And thanks, Chevyman for the tip on using a 100 Ohm dropping resistor in line to +12 Volts, to mimic the internal resistance of the electrolyte. When battery fluid level is above the add water mark, the battery electrolyte touches 2 internal contacts, completing the circuit from the Sensor wire to the battery's +12 post. Actually the resistor is not a bad idea, as with unknowns with the circuits in the black boxes helps to preserve them by limiting current flow. That will be another of my projects when I work on installing an aftermarket CB.

I did a complete rewiring to consolidate all aftermarket accessories' in line fuses to a 6 gang fuse block on top the ignitor below the false tank cover, so I wouldn't have to take the fairing apart to replace them. Tied it into there. (Circuits with relays: Wolo horn, trailer 5 to 4 module, heated grips, cigarette lighter socket, battery maintainer leads.)

Also, I did this about 6 months ago. For only $20 a year, you can join the American Voyager's Association and besides access to members only portions of this forum, you get reference manual full of tech tips. I think it is worth it.

[chevyman1]

You can also tie the Battery Electrolyte Level Sensor wire to battery positive, which I did. Reason is the battery instrument panel light's power is cut when the ignition switch is off. Chevyman's idea of splicing into the lighting circuit is a good option, as it is a clean way to splice into wiring without having to come up with an extra large spade lug to battery post. You'll find the info on how to do in Tech Tips:

https://www.amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXI ... y%20Sensor

And thanks, Chevyman for the tip on using a 100 Ohm dropping resistor in line to +12 Volts, to mimic the internal resistance of the electrolyte. When battery fluid level is above the add water mark, the battery electrolyte touches 2 internal contacts, completing the circuit from the Sensor wire to the battery's +12 post. Actually the resistor is not a bad idea, as with unknowns with the circuits in the black boxes helps to preserve them by limiting current flow. That will be another of my projects when I work on installing an aftermarket CB.

When I hook the wire to the Orange wire I don't cut it or splice it.
What I do is pull the end of the Orange wire out of the plug, With A real small screwdriver you can push the catch that holds it in.
Then I take the one side of the resistor and wind it around the end and push it back into the plug that keeps it secure.
Then I put a bullet connector on the other end and a piece of shrink tube over the resistor covering anything that can short out and just plug the sensor wire into it.

[KISSfanJoe]

Fixed the battery light issue! I was actually able to cut the sensor wire off of the old battery! It gave me enough room after the resistor to splice it in. I did what chevyman said and pulled the orange wire out, wrapped it around and stuck it back in the slot! Works like a charm!

[ekap1200]

Okay guys, here is the first question about my new bike! However, I just answered it myself I believe! The battery light is on, and I just replaced the battery... However, the new battery didn't have a plug for the sensor... I have already installed it... What do I do?!? :(

Was this new battery put on charge until it reached 100%. ?

[KISSfanJoe]

Okay guys, here is the first question about my new bike! However, I just answered it myself I believe! The battery light is on, and I just replaced the battery... However, the new battery didn't have a plug for the sensor... I have already installed it... What do I do?!? :(

Was this new battery put on charge until it reached 100%. ?

The battery is a brand new Gel battery. It's not required to be charged out of the box. The light was on because the new battery did not have a place for the battery sensor, so the sensor was simply reading that the battery had no acid since the sensor wasn't plugged in.

[ekap1200]

Okay guys, here is the first question about my new bike! However, I just answered it myself I believe! The battery light is on, and I just replaced the battery... However, the new battery didn't have a plug for the sensor... I have already installed it... What do I do?!? :(

Was this new battery put on charge until it reached 100%. ?

The battery is a brand new Gel battery. It's not required to be charged out of the box. The light was on because the new battery did not have a place for the battery sensor, so the sensor was simply reading that the battery had no acid since the sensor wasn't plugged in.

I am aware of why your light was on, but your next post was that the lights would flicker at idle. What is the unloaded voltage of this battery ?

[Mr Jensee]

If you are not using one get a smart charger/tender for the gel battery. It will maintain it in peak condition at all times when you are not riding. The clock on the radio will drain it down if it isn't the bike isn't ridden much in the winter months.

[KISSfanJoe]

If you are not using one get a smart charger/tender for the gel battery. It will maintain it in peak condition at all times when you are not riding. The clock on the radio will drain it down if it isn't the bike isn't ridden much in the winter months.

I will definitely get one for the Voyager! I have a battery tender on my Victory V92 and it does wonders!

[KISSfanJoe]

Okay guys, here is the first question about my new bike! However, I just answered it myself I believe! The battery light is on, and I just replaced the battery... However, the new battery didn't have a plug for the sensor... I have already installed it... What do I do?!? :(

Was this new battery put on charge until it reached 100%. ?

The battery is a brand new Gel battery. It's not required to be charged out of the box. The light was on because the new battery did not have a place for the battery sensor, so the sensor was simply reading that the battery had no acid since the sensor wasn't plugged in.

I am aware of why your light was on, but your next post was that the lights would flicker at idle. What is the unloaded voltage of this battery ?

I am not sure what the unloaded voltage is. I rode the bike around the neighborhood a little this weekend, and it seems to be getting better, but I will keep an eye on it.

[ghostler]

I learned a hard lesson. Don't buy and use one of those Harbor Freight battery tenders for under $10. It has no circuit protection. They state battery must be charged. I didn't have the battery topped off. It went out without warning. I had a dead battery, a dead maintainer and missed a ride one winter.

Now I have a quality Schumacher battery charger/maintainer, works like a charm.

[ekap1200]

Okay guys, here is the first question about my new bike! However, I just answered it myself I believe! The battery light is on, and I just replaced the battery... However, the new battery didn't have a plug for the sensor... I have already installed it... What do I do?!? :(

Was this new battery put on charge until it reached 100%. ?

The battery is a brand new Gel battery. It's not required to be charged out of the box. The light was on because the new battery did not have a place for the battery sensor, so the sensor was simply reading that the battery had no acid since the sensor wasn't plugged in.

I am aware of why your light was on, but your next post was that the lights would flicker at idle. What is the unloaded voltage of this battery ?

I am not sure what the unloaded voltage is. I rode the bike around the neighborhood a little this weekend, and it seems to be getting better, but I will keep an eye on it.

Well it means just that , with the key off and the 3amp radio fuse out. measure the voltage with a voltmeter at the battery. The voltage of battery has a direct relationship to the percentage of its charge. With your new battery there should have been included a chart to instruct you what charge rate and time required on the charger to bring it up to 100% based on the voltage reading. And what type of charger is required for the gel-cell.
And yes riding the bike will slowly charge the battery , but that's the proper thing to do. Batteries should always be at 100% charged before putting into service. The longer the battery sits below 100% the more it becomes damaged and less likely to be fully charged. Check back with the paperwork that came with your new battery or contact the vendor from whom you purchased it from. Does this help ? Gene K.