How difficult is it to change front fork seals

[scottabe]

After checking at a couple shops, more motivated to do this job myself, even though I'm a lousy mechanic. How hard is it, and is there a walkthrough somewhere on the site or on you-tube?

[Neal]

Why are you changing them? Have a look at the Seal-Mate. Many of us have tried this with complete success....And at only $7.00.
I've done three different Voyagers and 1 Yamaha Royal Star Venture all with no problems. And 2 of these were REAL bad. You can see a complete description and tutorial on their website.
Seal-Mate.com

[scottabe]

Why are you changing them? Have a look at the Seal-Mate. Many of us have tried this with complete success....And at only $7.00.
I've done three different Voyagers and 1 Yamaha Royal Star Venture all with no problems. And 2 of these were REAL bad. You can see a complete description and tutorial on their website.
Seal-Mate.com

Ordered, thanks for the tip.

[ghostler]

Why are you changing them? Have a look at the Seal-Mate. Many of us have tried this with complete success....And at only $7.00. I've done three different Voyagers and 1 Yamaha Royal Star Venture all with no problems. And 2 of these were REAL bad. You can see a complete description and tutorial on their website. Seal-Mate.com

Hello Neal, thanks for posting. I've replaced seals on 2 bikes already, my 2001 XII and a 1987 Suzuki Savage. I figured it might have been because of their age, but for $7, it would be worth trying first.

Website is http://www.sealmate.net

[Mr Jensee]

If you have a Cycle Gear in your neighborhood, they sell them as well. If you end up having to change the fork seals, YouTube has lots of videos on how to do it. Most all forks are made the same.

[davidl]

Not real hard to replace the seals. Most of the time when you change the seal, you change the dust boots. Hardest part is to remove the keeper inside the fork tube. You need to find a way to press down the "plug", remove the keeper and gently release the tension on the spring. I have a "tool" I built to do that. I can send it to you if you will send it back.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

The link for this product is sealmate.net the previous web address is for a different product. Can't tell you how many times I make the same error when searching products.

[Neal]

Oops,,,My Bad....Sorry

[ghostler]

Oops,,,My Bad....Sorry

No need to apologize, Neal; the thought you expressed was more important, this little known technique. I didn't know such a tool existed. In cases where seal is still in good condition, using this special tool to remove dirty and debris that made their way into the seal area makes sense. Another I may do is install Yamaha fork guards as described in the forum's how-to manual. By minimizing bug guts out of the fork compression area will help keep seals in good condition and prevent leaks.

[tripledaddy]

I just changed bushings and seals in mine. That top keeper will make you exercise the adult section of the English dictionary though. I will be making a tool for that in the future for sure, also drilling and pipe tapping that top plug for easier fluid changes. Seals are a little deeper than most, so the easiest way is to use the slider as a slide hammer, and if you're careful, just hammer enough to reach in with a stiff pick or flat screw driver and pull them the rest of the way out. Otherwise, you'll have to get the top bushing started back in it's bore and drive it completely in, which can be trying. Other than that, it's just a little tight trying to loosen and tighten everything up inside the fairing, not much room. One question I have, has anyone noticed a misalignment with the triple trees when putting forks back in? My bike was wrecked so I got a used set from an unwrecked bike and they were bent to the same degree as mine. Also, the axis of the upper portion of the stem for the top clamp nut was shifted forward from the axis of the main stem. I just found a set of new ones for a $100 so I should be good. Kawasaki lists the upper and lower with bearings for $700+. Yikes!

[triton28]

I keep a set of spare fork tubes which I had checked on a set of knife edges for runout and there wasn't any so I know they are straight.
Using these verified fork tubes I can check a lower triple tree for being bent as when the tubes are installed in a non bent triple tree, the legs are parallel with each other, and they fit easily into the top tree.
This check can be done with the lower tree and all the fairing items still installed, but the fork legs have to be removed.
I also had one bike, I was adjusting the steering bearing preload and final torque, where the owner swore the forks were straight but when mounting the top triple tree, one leg was off and did not line up with the machined opening of the tree. So I pulled the forks legs and installed my check set of tubes and they weren't parallel. Bent lower tree. Replaced it with a good used lower tree and now the fork tubes easily slide into the top tree, the fork tube C/Lines are at 90 degrees to the line of the bike, the handlebars are straight, and the severe pull to the left which the bike had been suffering with disappeared.
The first thing I always look at are the fork stops on the lower tree. Some are bent back so you know that lower tree is bent, if not the fork tubes as well.
The top plug usually needs a sharp rap with a drift and hammer to loosen it before trying to depress it in order to remove the circlip.
If you remove the allen cap screw on the bottom of the forks, don't forget the Blue Loctite upon reassembly, but sparingly or the next person who tries to remove it will have a hard time. Don't ask how I discovered this!
Dave