Rear Brake Lever Return Spring

[Draxxis]

Ok, so my return spring (E) is still on the bike, but it isn't attached to the proper area. So it just flops around, and every time I use my rear brake, I have to tap up on the foot pedal to release the brake lights. The return spring (E) isn't broken, but I was wondering is there a way, without taking the whole rear brake assembly apart, to get in there and reconnect the spring to the right placement so I no longer have to tap the brake pedal up to shut the brake lights off? It is a mighty tough spring, and I can't get a pair of needle nose pliers in there too well to get a hold of it and pull it to the right position.

https://flic.kr/p/Ho96Ue



Rear Brakes by

draxxis4454, on Flickr[/img]

[triton28]

I just looked at a spare bracket assembly I have and I would have to say it would be a lot easier with the bracket removed. Or, at least remove the 3 bracket mounting screws and that may let you get some access for lifting leverage on the top, 180 degree hook of the spring to flip it over onto the spindle arm, provided the 90 degree bottom pin of the spring is in it's hole of course.
Some form of a strongly hooked exhaust spring puller/ brake spring pliers may work but I think the spring may be too strong for the relatively light duty exhaust spring puller tool, and unless the bracket assembly has been removed from the bike, access will be a problem for the brake spring pliers.

For what's involved I would just remove the rear brake line from the master cylinder, remove the bracket assembly, clamp the bracket assembly in a bench vise, disconnect the master cylinder pushrod and assorted items, wind up the spring with the brake lever, reinstall the brake components, and remount the bracket assembly and bleed the brake line.
One bonus is that with the bracket assembly removed it is real easy to set up the brake light switch.

Dave

[Draxxis]

Ok, I now have the return spring back and installed. Bled the brakes, but even after they've been bled, the brake pedal still goes all the way down to the "floor" before they really catch. I know that this isn't normal. And there is no air in the lines. When I bled the brakes, only fluid came out of the bleeder, and the reservoir is full of fluid. What am I doing wrong here?

Any suggestions?

[triton28]

https://www.amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXI ... Sponginess" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I hope this may be some help.
Dave

[Neal]

Try it on the side stand...

[Draxxis]

I have tried that, and still no luck. For the heck of it, I changed the brake pads as well. Still have the issue where I'm pushing it all the way down and still just barely slowing down.

When I say I'm pushing all the way down, the rear brake pedal is going below the foot cover on the front crash bars. Definitely not safe in any way or form.

Any other suggestions?

I did look at the caliper and it all is working in its proper form and the rubber around the plunger is still soft, not worn out.

Is there some adjustors that we are missing here? I mean I know there is the brake light adjustor, but that wouldn't have anything to do with how light or hard the brake lever moves, correct?

[triton28]

Did this problem exist before you fixed the lever spring?
If it did and you are certain there is no air in the system now, then an old, perhaps original, brake hose can become elastic with age and some of the force which would normally go to pushing the piston out against the pads is lost to soft hose walls. Do you know the age of the hose? Is it relatively new? Is there any leakage at the banjo bolts/crush washers?
I know it may be coincidental but hoses have to start losing their sidewall strength sometime.
Or, the piston seal in the master cylinder is weak/worn allowing some fluid blowby and not pushing the fluid solidly against the piston, or a combination of all of the above.
If the problem didn't exist before you fixed the lever spring, then the hose is probably not the culprit.
You are correct in that the brake light switch would have no bearing on pedal pressure.
Sorry I can't offer better suggestions,
Dave

[Draxxis]

Honestly, I am going to safely assume they are the original brake lines on the bike. They do have that spring that coils around the hoses from the resiviour to the caliper too.

I don't remember having this issue before I fixed the spring. But then again, I rarely use the back brakes that much. Most of my slowing down is done with down shifting and once I'm in 2nd and 1st gears, I'm using the front brakes to assist.

Knock on wood, I haven't had a time (yet) when I've had to grab on and slam on the brakes.

Thinking I may take it into my mom & pop bike garage and have them look at it.

[VoyKimmer]

It is very hard to get air out of rear brake caliper. I had to take caliper off hold it below reasevoue with bleeder straight up and open and squeeze caliper piston all the way in with a c clamp. It may take a couple a times. Make sure to keep reservoir full. This may also be a good time to get stainless steel brake lines.

[ekap1200]

With just using the pump and open way of bleeding, air will still be trapped up front. Look how the line is routed. It goes downward a bit and then back up slightly. That is why we are saying to squeeze the piston with a c-clamp. It will quickly force that air thats hanging right past the master cyl. and back into the reservoir. Once you have done it once , next time will be a breeze...
Gene