starter motor

[tiredofbs4]

Anyone know good place to find one or a part number? Thanks

[cranky]

.... familiarize yourself with partzilla.com http://tinyurl.com/gu6ll4p
Good source for looking up parts. Best to Ya!

[Mr Jensee]

I recommend Bikebandit.com as another good source for parts. Used starters show up on Ebay from time to time also. The 1200 was produced for 17 years so any year model will interchange with another year. Also starters can be rebuilt, so check locally if there is a place that repairs starters and alternators. It might just need new brushes.

[Me Again]

There are two on fleabay right now .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAWASAKI-1983-Z ... a1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-Kawasaki-Voy ... QY&vxp=mtr

[trikebldr]

As you can see from Me Again's posted links, prices for the used parts vary widely. I strongly suggest browsing the eBay listings for the 1300 often and when something comes up at a very reasonable price, grab it, even if you don't need it,.....YET! Parts for these bikes will get harder and harder to find, and before long some of them will not be found. I have almost as much invested in spare parts as I do in the two bikes I own, but I will be able to ride a long time. I also got my parts at great prices rather than waiting until I needed them.
It is a crap shoot when buying used parts, but there are six salvage dealers that I deal with regularly from across the country and they will only ship totally functional parts. NOBODY can tell you how long a given used part will last, though.
In the case of your starter motor, you should tear it apart and clean it out and see what is wrong with it. They are actually very easy to work on yourself. Replacing the brushes and cleaning up the commutator isn't all that hard. A shop with a lathe can do that for you. Just gotta be sure to clean out between coppers. Any good alternator/starter shop can test, clean and repair whats wrong with it. Might cost more than a used one, but should be much more reliable and will probably outlast the rest of the bike. Just as an example, my first 1300 (an '83) had over 212,000 miles with no failures or repairs needed before being t-boned. These starters just don't give much problem unless abused by trying to start a sick motor.
Start collecting your used, spare parts now, or face paying much higher prices and maybe not finding them later.

[Lucasind]

Amen to that Bruce ! I have been following our friend " tired of bs" bike troubles of late....... could almost predict some starter motor troubles coming. once these great bikes are made "right" they start with just the touch of the starter button . mine always starts before the engine cranks over a second.
best of luck to your search and repairs .

[tiredofbs4]

I replaced starter relay. Then starter motor over heated burned up. Bought one on ebay. But still had original issue though starter motor was fried and replaced. So took to dealership. They calked today said Starter Clutch as well as my dfi issue is a release valve issue so they ordered parts and will get Mistress back next week

[trikebldr]

WOW! You have a dealer who can, and WILL, work on your 1300 Voyager? Count your blessings! Now, let's see how long it takes them to get parts. When you say "release valve" are you referring to the pressure relief valve to control fuel pressure to the injectors?

[tiredofbs4]

Yes thats the valve. The dealer took longer than promised so he is delivering bike instead of me getting ride 65 miles each way.. he did mention theres a temperature sensor they couldnt get that he will show me where it is and paperwork when he gets here in a bit

[trikebldr]

Yes thats the valve. The dealer took longer than promised so he is delivering bike instead of me getting ride 65 miles each way.. he did mention theres a temperature sensor they couldnt get that he will show me where it is and paperwork when he gets here in a bit

Those release valves are a dime a dozen, used, on eBay, and most of them from reputable salvage dealers are guaranteed good. I have three spares myself and one that is a cut-away for examination. I am curious to know if the one he put on your bike is brand new or a tested used one. I wouldn't mind having a new one, just to be sure, if the price isn't too high.

Ha, ha! That temp sensor he is talking about is readily available new,.....for about $125!!! Even the used ones on eBay are super costly, too! There are alternatives to using those exact replacements if you are willing to do a little research, rework an/or some fabrication.

Waiting to hear how well it runs now! Give us the complete rundown on what they did and what parts! Pics, maybe?

[tiredofbs4]

Ok they changed starter clutch and the valve mentionrd on right side bije is no longer spinning but they couldnt get the temp senso from kawasaki. They found it on ebay showed me the auction. It says water temp sensor now why is thst affecting fuel? Before all this i never had to give her gas just hit button . After they fixed her you have to pump the throttle and when she fires u have to hold throttle til warms up. Here a popping noise. But if u disconbect that sensor bike runs smoother

[trikebldr]

Pumping throttle does absolutely nothing unless the engine is already running. Fuel injection has no mechanical acceleration pump like some automotive carbs do. We don't even have chokes! That lever simply holds the throttle plates open a bit more to keep speed up until warm.

That water temp sensor is one of the inputs to the DFI system to tell it how much extra fuel to inject until the engine gets warm. You can play some fun games with it, too! That little "Cruise" button on the panel in front of the handlebars tells the DFI to lean the mixture out just a tad for better mileage. Similarly, you can wire a variable resistor parallel to that water temp sensor to alter it's input to the DFI and do just the opposite to what the "Cruise" button does by increasing the fuel mixture at higher power levels to maximize the output. When the temp sensor tells the DFI that the engine is cold, the DFI automatically increases the duration of each injector's squirt time. By manipulating that iNput value with the variable resistor, you can fool the DFI into pumping more fuel into the engine for a little bi more power, especially on the top end when it tends to starve a bit and get hotter.

To restore factory running performance, though, keep watching eBay for a stock, used sensor. I've never seen any of the parts suppliers, let alone the dealers, being able to provide a new sensor, at ANY price. The only new ones I've seen are sometimes on eBay, but for around $125. There is a place in Germany that carries a lot of stock sixer parts new, but not sure if they have these temp sensors. I will look them up and see.

Sounds like your bike wants to run better with the temp sensor disconnected.

[trikebldr]

The DFI system fail-safe mode is described on page 3-4 of the supplement manual, and the details of testing the engine temp sensor are on page 3-16. If you don't yet have the supplement manual, you SHOULD have one if you want to keep your bike running at all. These bikes will make you bankrupt from having a dealer keep playing with it if you can't work on it yourself, and they are just WAAAAY too complex to "wing it" without a manual to describe all the systems and their values.

I'm thinking that with no input from the engine temp sensor (disconnected), or a faulty signal from it, the DFI has gone into it's fail-safe mode. That means it will be running a bit rich to prevent damage to other systems.

[trikebldr]

The first pic is of the engine temp sensor that feeds the DFI system. It is basically a cylinder head temp sensor.

The second pic is of the same sensor. These first two pics are from a current eBay "Buy It Now/Make An Offer". About $75. Unfortunately, the seller listed it as a coolant temp sensor. He is wrong! I sent him a message to correct his listing. The third pic here is from one of his listings, too, and it is a coolant sensor!

The third pic is of the water temp sensor. All it does is drive the temp gauge.

There is also a fan switch that simply turns the fan on and off when the water temp gets too high.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Kawasaki-V ... qS&vxp=mtr

[tiredofbs4]

Thank you very much trkebldr i am waiting for refund to process and i will order that

[tiredofbs4]

Question, is there place to download supplement manual.. i have a maintenance manual but it has carburator not fuel injecttion in it.

[trikebldr]

Try this link: http://www.kz1300.com/manuals/ZN1300SMS.pdf

Then, for a parts listing, try this link: http://www.kz1300.com/manuals/ZN1300_A5A6_Voyager.pdf

Then, for a trouble shooting manual, try this link: http://www.kz1300.com/manuals/VOYAGER%2 ... MANUAL.pdf

These links are from the KZ1300 sixer site, but they do have a few Voyager owners over there. Most of them ride the carbureted street bikes, though. The pdf supplement manual is a little different from the paperback printed version. I highly recommend spending just a bit to get the printed version. It has a lot of testing procedures to test each part in the DFI system as well the ignition system. If these links don't work for you, you might have to register over there to obtain them. I am registered there and they work for me even when I don't log in.

[tiredofbs4]

Thaks brother

[tiredofbs4]

Ok I got that sensor and between that and starter clutch the Mistress is happy again. Soon as i hit the button she rumbles thanks guys

[trikebldr]

I just love happy ending,.....or, should I say,... a happy new beginning?