CLUTCH ISSUE

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Bulldogx11
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CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bulldogx11 »

Hi I have a 1994 voyager, was riding yesterday and all sudden when I took off from light it felt lik I was in second gear lugin outta hole, then when I got goin if I gunned it alittle instant slippage. pulled over and looked for leaks none ,started it up and it was perfect no slippage ! then was riding home and it happened again ,and then it went away and was ok . Don't kno where to start the master has felt a little rough once in a great while. It seem lik its not letting pressure off so it starts slippin. Has anyone had this happen to them? any input would be appreciated. Thanks
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Mr Jensee »

Bulldog when was the last time you changed your oil and what oil did you use? It would help if you would let us know the mileage and some history of the bike. We await your reply.
For Voyager XII Manuals click the link below.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ao3K0Ai2gvglgS3l7J4pBJrjfBhc
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bulldogx11 »

Milage just turned 50,000,dino oil regularly at 4-tho at 3500 on oil now. Took my bike out this morning for 45 miles of course it didn't slip. trying to catch it when it slipping so I can see if the plunger m-cyl is sticking. The lever does seem alittle rough from time to time, think about rebuilding m-cyl are there any good kits u could recommend ?
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by triton28 »

One of 2 things comes to mind: first the forward smaller hole in the bottom of the master cylinder may have some corrosion building up and restricting the return flow of hydraulic fluid thereby causing the clutch plates to remain disengaged; or second, the slave cylinder may have corrosion preventing the piston from returning into the bore of the cylinder.
The first can be cleaned with a strand from a wire brush, and the second is a little more involved in that the slave cylinder must be removed and visually inspected.
Hydraulic brake fluid absorbs air and as such the moisture contained in the air reacts with the aluminium to form crusty corosion. It should be changed out each and every 2 year time period.
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bulldogx11 »

I flushed and changed the fluid last year. I had it out twice today about 90 miles total it never slipped again, but the lever felt a little funny sometimes hard to explain just not as smooth (ruff ness). I haven't touched the slave cyl on my voyager but I have worked on my friends ,what should I expect ,will oil come out motor if I don't drain it? can I inspect the slave piston without drainin clutch fluid ? and I kno ther is a slave gasket /spacer will I need to order one or are they reusable? I changed my engine oil today just to rule that out . if im feeling a weird lever sometimes could it be transmitted from problems other than the master cyl ? last but not least does anyone know what rebuild kit for the master clutch cyl is good?
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by misft »

:hmm: Maybe measure the clutch springs. They may be at the service limit but are easy and cheap to replace.
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by triton28 »

motor oil will not drain out, clutch fluid will NOT need to be drained to inspect the piston sliding ability and/or the amount of corrosion evident around the top of the bore.
When testing the sliding ability, the piston when gently pushed further into the cylinder bore should gently return, on it's own, by the force of the spring behind it, to where it was to begin the inspection with. Be careful that no person mistakenly operates the clutch hand lever while the slave cylinder is disconnected from the crankcase as this WILL pop the piston out of the bore.
On a side note, the slave cylinder really is very easy to dis and re-assemble. I have found that with a little brake fluid applied to the bore and sealing ring, the piston easily fits squarely back into the bore after any repairs.
The spacer is rigid plastic, normally reusable, and necessary.
The OEM piston/rubber caps IMHO are the best for the master rebuild.

Also there are 2 of six tang spider like spring washers which are located just behind the pressure plate of the clutch basket.
If one or both of these has lost any of the tangs, this can cause possible slippage but this possible problem is for when one is inside the clutch side cover to inspect items if the clutch still slips after the previously suggested cures by the forum don't work.
Dave
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by cranky »

... thanks Dave! I like to watch tech problems / solutions, very informative! Newby here.....
'03 Voyager - http://tinyurl.com/mqtgpwp VROC pics of Gina
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by triton28 »

Anytime, I hope my limited insights may be of some help to those in need,
Dave
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bill O »

One issue has not been addressed. The Spider Springs in the clutch. They tend to break. The '94 has two Spider Springs in the clutch to assist the locking clutch hub. When these springs break, and they do often, you will get the exact symptom you are describing.

Just last week I assisted in replacing two broken Spider Springs in a 2003 with the same issues. Check with Carl Leo, he will affirm these issues.

Two new springs and a clutch cover gasket, probably $25-$30 bucks and away you go.

Bill O

P.S. You will need an impact driver (air or elec/batt) and a 1 & 7/16 six point or 32mm Socket to get the nut off to replace the springs. More great advice from Carl.
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by triton28 »

Edit to my last post: "Also there are 2 of six tang spider like spring washers" , this should read "Also there are 2 of three tang spider like....".
When the washers are overlayed one on the other, then it has the appearance of having 6 tangs.
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bulldogx11 »

HI I went like a month with no clutch slippage but its BACK! I had a little slippage goin up steep hill one day couple weeks ago ,so I took slave off cleaned the bore and also flushed my fluid . Took for ride try to make it slip it wouldn't slip no matter what I did,went couple rides probably 250 miles no slip ,then all the sudden slippin again then it will go away then it comes back --it doesn't slip constantly .This is something I noticed that seemed weird--the piston on the slave doesn't stay in when I push it in it slowly comes out by itself lik there is a little pressure on it still Is this normal? ,cuz on brake caliper pistons when u push the piston in it stays in . what would or could be causing the piston to slowly come out ? I think im guna rebuild master don't kno if that's the cause. any help will be greatly appreciated thanks
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by cranky »

... that tiny little return hole in the master cylinder had burned up
many a Vulcan clutches, don't know how the Voyager is built, but
it cost me a clutch, just sayin... yeah, the one on the handlebar....
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by tfmorey »

Been reading up on the clutch issue. Having a problem with slippage, usually when I am pushing the bike a bit at higher speeds and roll on the throttle. Been reading about the "spider" washers. Well long story short - one of my "spider" washers is broken. I'd attach a picture but can'f figure out how. However, how does one get the nut off to remove the "spider" washers? About to go nuts trying. The manual on this site says there is a special tool but don't really to buy an expensive tool and wouldn't know where to get one. Any help would be appreciated!!!
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by triton28 »

Try using an air driven impact gun with the appropriate sized socket.
All the special tool does is duplicate a steel plate and a friction plate being as one plate. Then there is the tang/handle that one holds/blocks to prevent the inner and outer hubs from turning while removing the nut.
Sometimes an air tool can overcome the friction of the nut against the shaft and spin the nut off.
Worth a try but the tool really does make it so easy. They sometimes show up on eBay, or MotionPro also sells them.
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by HMB Don »

EBC sells the clutch tool for less then $20.00
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bill O »

Lesson learned from Carl......

I bought me a battery powered impact driver. That with the correct size socket (and with the use of the clutch basket holding tool) and the nut spun right off. can't remember the socket size (will look it up in the garage, tomorrow) but also special note passed down from Carl... get a six point socket and not a 12 point, if you buy one.

After that, it was easy breezy.

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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by tfmorey »

Thanks everyone, currently all i have is the 12 point socket. I'll get the 6 point and with your advise have the special tool on order. Hopefully I'll have all the parts and tools and be able to finish it this weekend! I'll let you all know. Also measured my springs and they were all on the short end so I also have new springs coming in.

Once again - Thanks everyone for your advise!
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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by Bill O »

For those who want to know, the sae size socket that fits the Clutch nut is: 1 7/16. Thanks go to Carl Leo.

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Re: CLUTCH ISSUE

Post by tfmorey »

Wanted to let you all know I put the new spider washers and springs into the clutch and went to check it out and it was slipping worse than before. After scratching my bald head for a while and reading some other posts I completely flushed out all the old fluid. However with everything going on I wasn't able to flush the fluid until last night. Went for a ride and now it back to riding to normal!!! Pushed it hard and no slippage at all. Very happy :woohoo: !!! I want to thank everyone here for the advise.
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